Yes you can put two C50 in the back of an SUV.
Yes you can put two C50 in the back of an SUV.
Can a determination be made as to approx build date by the serial numbers: 48029 and 48030
Very Nice ! Keep the pics coming. I'm working on a few myself. Love to see yours progress!
These are being redone for me, so I'm not sticking to all original. The cabinets will be refinished, woofers refoamed, pulling the LE85/91 and putting 2405 in their place, then building either 2397 or Westlakes horns to sit on top of the cabs. I'll start with he LE85 while I look for some 2" drivers. The crossover will be from scratch. I will be using quarter sawn bubinga for the horns. You can see the wood standing by the cabs. It is a lot darker once oiled.
Last edited by Wardsweb; 03-13-2011 at 09:00 PM. Reason: typo
The serial numbers suggest building date late 1968 or early 1969.
Johnny Haugen Sørgård
That's normal, I'm missing a couple also and may have a source. Will advise!
The other cabinet needed a little more attention. It wasn't bad but a few joints were loose so some glue and clamps to tighten it all back up.
Sanded and oiled. I will let this set for a couple days and then finish with some DEFT lacquer.
I use Watco Danish Oil Natural color... you have to reapply after about a year... and then every few years, but it takes just a few minutes and makes the piece look new again. For a dining table or other piece of furniture that takes a fair amount of abuse a simple oil finish isn't such a great idea, but for speakers, unless you have small children you really don't have to plastic coat this stuff.
I just really dislike most lacquer and urethane finishes on open grained woods like walnut.
Widget
I'm with the Widgemeister on this. I believe strongly in laquer finishes for wood veneers that has been damaged or is in harms way. In other words if I have a walnut JBL cabinet that has holes in in or or even veneer sanded through or peeled I have to use laquer to mask the cosmetic repairs that I'm doing. I have to have the various coats to mask what is going on underneath the finish. BUT when it comes to a simple grain finish on an open pore wood like Walnut or teak, oil looks so natural and beautiful. I'm a big fan of Boiled linseed oil applied with 600 grit wet/dry sand paper over a few days initialy and then only after that as needed.
David F
San Jose
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