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Thread: How to take apart enclosure on Altec lansing VS2221

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  1. #1
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    How to take apart enclosure on Altec lansing VS2221

    I need to clean the volume control on my Altec Lansing VS2221 which sounds awful with static. I've successfully cleaned others in the past to restore proper operation.

    The problem I have with this speaker enclosure is that, after removing the two screws on the back, the panel only comes off about 1.5 inches, then it's like something is holding the rest of the panel from coming off, like glue or tabs. The sides appear to have no give to free up any tabs! If I force the back some more, I'm almost certain it will break! Is there some trick to remove the back of the enclosure so I can get at the volume control to clean it?

    TIA

    quickcurrent

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    Looks like nobody has cleaned a set of 2.1 computer speakers like these, huh?

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    Heather [Senorita member] hjames's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by quickcurrent View Post
    Looks like nobody has cleaned a set of 2.1 computer speakers like these, huh?
    We have one of the Altec iPod boombox things- found some of the screws were hidden under foil logos and labels ...
    still very nearly split the case when I did go into it ...

    Most of the Altec Lansing folks here are into the older wooden speaker systems made by the original Altec Lansing company,
    and not the newer computer speakers made by the company that bought the name.

    No judgment implied, just an FYI comment.
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    Senior Member WDJ's Avatar
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    (Might try looking on sites like tomsguide.com and fixya.com )
    Share what you know, learn what you don't...

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    Thanks WDJ and hjames.

    I've also emailed the "new" Altec Lansing to see what they have to say.

    I doubt there are any other screws, the fixya.com site just says to open the enclosure by removing the two screws!

    I wonder if they glued some backboards on these things to turn them into disposables when the volume control is dirty (which is a very short time)! This particular control only worked well for a few months before the noises started, then it got progressively worse; recently it's gotten so bad I can't use them - they sound like thunder whenever I touch the volume control !!! So I have to clean them or throw them out - too bad if I have to ditch them because they sound reasonably good when working well.

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    Member Guy in WNY's Avatar
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    Use the Good DEOXIT!

    Of course, you know to use to good deoxit spray stuff when you get in there. One of the best cleaners around.
    Guy in WNY

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    Just did some reading on that application for WD40.

    The manufacturer does not list electronics as an application.

    Other discussion forums discourage such use because of:

    1) its flammability,
    2) its propensity to leave behind a film that attracts dirt over time, and
    3) its propensity to attack some plastics.

    There may be others as well.

    I use WD40 for a lot of things, but have always feared using it on electronics. That is not to say that it cannot be used successfully, I personally would prefer to use a different product on electronics, preferably one that uses some type of alcohol to evaporate thoroughly.

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    Senior Member Eaulive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by quickcurrent View Post
    Other discussion forums discourage such use because of:

    1) its flammability,
    True, but I don't know too much electronics stuff that uses open flames.

    Quote Originally Posted by quickcurrent View Post
    1) its propensity to leave behind a film that attracts dirt over time,
    Also true, but like I said, when you have the choice between cleaning a dirty PC board or scrapping the equipment after 6 months because the copper has dissapeared from the board because of corrosion, the choice is easy

    Quote Originally Posted by quickcurrent View Post
    and
    3) its propensity to attack some plastics.
    Never noticed this though, and I sprayed a lot of this stuff in my life.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Eaulive View Post
    True, but I don't know too much electronics stuff that uses open flames.


    Also true, but like I said, when you have the choice between cleaning a dirty PC board or scrapping the equipment after 6 months because the copper has dissapeared from the board because of corrosion, the choice is easy


    Never noticed this though, and I sprayed a lot of this stuff in my life.
    Hey bud, I'm just posting what I read for the digestion and benefit of those reading this thread that may not have looked for the info.

    I just prefer to play it safe with those products. Electronics can get pretty hot, why take chances, when there are safe products to use.

    I've also heard of people using synthetic rustproofing (auto undercoating) materials to clean their auto electronics/electricals. I prefer not to follow suit, but it may work for some people. I have used WD40 on carburetors in the past as a water displacement (what the WD stands for) agent but that's different.

    If it works for you, great.

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    I've been using an old Rat Shack TV tuner cleaner spray that I've had forever - works great.

    Still waiting to hear from Altec Lansing !!!

  12. #12
    Heather [Senorita member] hjames's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by quickcurrent View Post
    I've been using an old Rat Shack TV tuner cleaner spray that I've had forever - works great.

    Still waiting to hear from Altec Lansing !!!
    no no, really, I grew up with Radio/TV repair classes in high school - been doing this stuff since the 70s. TV Tuners are one thing, this is AUDIO - toss the rat shack stuff and get some Caig Deoxit- its a whole different product, HIGHLY recommended! Amazon or a number of other places.
    2ch - Oppo981, JoLida502, JBL L200+, KEF 105.4
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    Senior Member Eaulive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by quickcurrent View Post
    I've been using an old Rat Shack TV tuner cleaner spray that I've had forever - works great.

    Still waiting to hear from Altec Lansing !!!
    I've been using WD-40 for decades, to clean contacts there's nothing better.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Eaulive View Post
    I've been using WD-40 for decades, to clean contacts there's nothing better.
    You need to be careful not to get WD40 on other electronics though, that could short things out because it stays greasy for a long time. I'd dread the idea of having used that on my speaker as I had to spray blindly, so I needed something that would dry out completely before putting them back in service. But, if used carefully and only where needed, I can see that doing a good job.

  15. #15
    Senior Member Eaulive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by quickcurrent View Post
    You need to be careful not to get WD40 on other electronics though, that could short things out because it stays greasy for a long time. I'd dread the idea of having used that on my speaker as I had to spray blindly, so I needed something that would dry out completely before putting them back in service. But, if used carefully and only where needed, I can see that doing a good job.
    Not at all. WD40 is absolutely not conductive, it even has insulating properties.
    In the good old days of spark plugs and rotor/distributor system, when you had bad wiring and your car didn't start in a damp morning because sparks were jumping all over the place, just spray WD40 all over and inside the distributor!
    No more spark jump.

    I sprayed WD 40 on HV sections of PWM power supplies, HV ballasts and igniters for HMI lamps, no problem.

    In the Dominican Republic we spray it on all the PC boards to prevent corrosion from saline air, no problem.
    Just don't spray it on belts, magnetic heads, VTR drums, laser pickup lenses or anything that's mechanical.

    Some alcohol based sprays are very conductive until they dry out, you can spray WD40 on powered equipment without fear.

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