Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Should I replace electrolytic caps in l80t3 crossover before installation?

  1. #1
    riker1384
    Guest

    Should I replace electrolytic caps in l80t3 crossover before installation?

    I got a pair of L80T3 Xovers for my L80T's. From what I understand, they have a mixture of electrolytic and poly (or whatever) caps. Is this correct? I can't tell the difference. If there are electrolytics, would be be a good idea to preemptively replace them? If they're 20+ years old does that mean they will degrade sooner or later? If they're going to go bad, I imagine it would be easier to get them replaced now, before I install them. I don't solder but I'm already planning a trip to a service center. I have two pairs, so I'm going to try refoaming one pair of woofers and paying to have the other done.

    Also, should I be able to install the xovers myself? It looks like the connectors don't require solder. I just use the wiring diagram from the L80T3, right?

    http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Te...L80t3%20ts.pdf

    The + and - terminals on the L80T drivers are the same as the T3?

  2. #2
    Senior Member gferrell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Styx , NC
    Posts
    479
    I would listen first then decide. Some caps last forever some don't. I just picked up a pair of L60ts this weekend for $20 and they sound great and are just fine how they are. If it ain't broke don't mess with it.

  3. #3
    Senior Member 1audiohack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Las Vegas Nevada
    Posts
    3,092
    Quote Originally Posted by gferrell View Post
    I would listen first then decide.---If it ain't broke don't mess with it.
    That is just not the American way! If it's not broke, you HAVE to take it apart and figure out why!
    If we knew what the hell we were doing, we wouldn't call it research would we.

  4. #4
    RIP 2021 SEAWOLF97's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    in "managed decline"
    Posts
    10,054
    Quote Originally Posted by 1audiohack View Post
    That is just not the American way! If it's not broke, you HAVE to take it apart and figure out why!
    If it aint broke...fix it 'till it is......
    Some kind of happiness is measured out in miles

  5. #5
    Senior Member brutal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Parker, CO
    Posts
    1,051
    Quote Originally Posted by SEAWOLF97 View Post
    If it aint broke...fix it 'till it is......
    You might want to pay close attention to the differences in them. http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Te.../L80t%20ts.pdf

    It doesn't indicate Red/Black on the N80T diagram, but things look different on the input side.


  6. #6
    Senior Member jcrobso's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    1,099

    Electrolytic will go bad after many years.

    Quote Originally Posted by riker1384 View Post
    I got a pair of L80T3 Xovers for my L80T's. From what I understand, they have a mixture of electrolytic and poly (or whatever) caps. Is this correct? I can't tell the difference. If there are electrolytic, would be be a good idea to preemptively replace them? If they're 20+ years old does that mean they will degrade sooner or later? If they're going to go bad, I imagine it would be easier to get them replaced now, before I install them. I don't solder but I'm already planning a trip to a service center. I have two pairs, so I'm going to try refoaming one pair of woofers and paying to have the other done.

    Also, should I be able to install the xovers myself? It looks like the connectors don't require solder. I just use the wiring diagram from the L80T3, right?

    http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Te...L80t3%20ts.pdf

    The + and - terminals on the L80T drivers are the same as the T3?
    How many years depends on how good they were in the first place.
    The only way to tell for sure is to measure them with a LCR meter.
    If you can remain calm in a crises, you don't understand the situation!

  7. #7
    RIP 2013 Rolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Skien, Norway
    Posts
    2,298
    Everything gets old. I believe changing to new components is for the good.

  8. #8
    Senior Member brutal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Parker, CO
    Posts
    1,051
    Quote Originally Posted by jcrobso View Post
    How many years depends on how good they were in the first place.
    The only way to tell for sure is to measure them with a LCR meter.
    And to truly measure all facets of a large cap, an ESR is advised. Most folks have neither.

    I bought one of the Blue ESR meter kits and use it often when doing audio repairs. Often it's just used as a confirmation tool, but finding dead caps in-circuit is useful.


Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Is L80t3 crossover a true drop-in replacement for the L80T?
    By riker1384 in forum Lansing Product Technical Help
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 06-21-2010, 04:01 PM
  2. L 300 Crossover Rebuilding-What Caps Would You Use?
    By Oldmics in forum Lansing Product Technical Help
    Replies: 36
    Last Post: 04-17-2008, 03:15 PM
  3. Nichicon Muse KZ Audio Electrolytic Caps
    By Ken Pachkowsky in forum Lansing Product DIY Forum
    Replies: 31
    Last Post: 11-23-2005, 02:54 PM
  4. Query: Crossover caps in 20+ year old UREI/JBL speakers.
    By doodlebug in forum Lansing Product Technical Help
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 11-19-2005, 01:29 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •