Thoughts on the JBL 2395 slant plate lens ?

[doucanoe]

I've been a long time sucker for horns. Sucker, meaning my fascination of different designs and design philosophies, leads me to want to try them all in DIY projects. While many have been successful endeavours, some have turned out to be a swing and a miss.

A couple of days ago I decided to pick up a pair of JBL 2395's that were available locally. These as you know, are probably too big for their own good but the "sucker" in me won out and I grabbed them

I was wondering if anyone would like to share their experiences with them used in a home audio application. What worked well, what didn't etc.

Also, tips or suggestions from any members have taken the time to dissassemble them for refinishing. I haven't had the time yet to determine how the plates and spacers work together so I'm reluctant to just start off unbolting things.

Thanks
RC

[jcrobso]

http://www.jblpro.com/pub/obsolete/a...ns_family1.pdf
I have the 2391 and the sound very good. But the 2395 is whole different class, yes they are BIG! Post some photos when you have a chance!

[badman]

http://www.jblpro.com/pub/obsolete/a...ns_family1.pdf
I have the 2391 and the sound very good. But the 2395 is whole different class, yes they are BIG! Post some photos when you have a chance!

Not surprising since it exhibits much less beamwidth tapering.

[doucanoe]

Well, here are some pics of one of them anyway.

Please forgive the frilly, non-audio guy table lamp cover. I needed some place large enough to set one of these on for pics and my wifes sewing table was available. This table has been deemed off limits for audio gear but she's upstairs at the moment so... no see, no foul

They need a little tune up but are in pretty nice condition overall.

RC

[SMKSoundPro]

What drivers will you bolt on to these?

[scott fitlin]

Do you have the front mounting legs, and the H brackets?

[doucanoe]

What drivers will you bolt on to these?

I have 2441's but am currently using them in my main system and I don't see that changing. That leaves me with my EV DH1A's. They are only other pair of 2" compression drivers I have at the moment.

RC

[doucanoe]

Do you have the front mounting legs, and the H brackets?

I have been speaking with LG about a pair of H brackets he has available but I'm not familiar with what the front mounting legs are.

Are these needed and what did they do exactly? I can see where the brackets would come in handy but if this is to be free standing, do the legs do something other than elevate?

RC

[scott fitlin]

They are supposed to have mounting legs on the front at the bottom of the 1st slant plate. You will see screw holes on the bottom of the rectangular frame the slant plates attach to and they legs hold the lens up OFF the cabinet they are on, and facilitate secure mounting as well.

[doucanoe]

They are supposed to have mounting legs on the front at the bottom of the 1st slant plate. You will see screw holes on the bottom of the rectangular frame the slant plates attach to and they legs hold the lens up OFF the cabinet they are on, and facilitate secure mounting as well.

Thanks Scott.


Hmm, I'm not seeing any screw holes, assuming that I am looking in the right place at least. I'll have to give them a better look later.

I guess a guy could fabricate something to accomplish the same. Thats something that happens around here quite a bit

RC

[doucanoe]

Anything on this page look like what we are talking about here?


RC

[doucanoe]

The JBL literature states " The JBL 2395 is a slant-plate acoustic lens for use above 800Hz". Does that mean that that this horn and lens will do well down to 800 or should it really be crossed over much higher?

I realize that I would not get ideal HF used in a two -way regardless of x-over point with the EV DH1A but am wondering if crossing over around 1200 would make more sense. I'm not sure where people have has good results for use in a home audio application.

Please keep in mind that I'm just horsing around with these at this point. I just want to get a feel for what this horn/lens sounds like but still want to give it a fair shake at the same time.

RC

[louped garouv]

The JBL literature states " The JBL 2395 is a slant-plate acoustic lens for use above 800Hz". Does that mean that that this horn and lens will do well down to 800 or should it really be crossed over much higher?

I realize that I would not get ideal HF used in a two -way regardless of x-over point with the EV DH1A but am wondering if crossing over around 1200 would make more sense. I'm not sure where people have has good results for use in a home audio application.

Please keep in mind that I'm just horsing around with these at this point. I just want to get a feel for what this horn/lens sounds like but still want to give it a fair shake at the same time.

RC

Historically; in the nightclubs at least....
(and in my basement too)
it was/is common to cross them somewhere near 800Hz with 18db slopes;


i also had more than satisfactory results crossing them at 1200Hz with 12db slopes

[scott fitlin]

We always used 800hz as the xover point, and later on in the 80,s we changed to 750hz at the suggestion of Lew Feldman, a sound designer, using the Richard Long gear, set up and concepts. We use the JBL 2441J on our lenses and I have tried other drivers, and also own some other drivers. Crossover frequency is NOT carved in stone, though, I find 750hz 18db or 12db butterworth sounds great with the 2441, but a slightly higher 800hz frequency sounds better with my TAD 4002 drivers. So, I think it depends on what driver you use, and what, through experimenting, sounds best to you. I also roll them off where the tweeter comes in, and it is said the lens is not good above 10k anyway.

What will the rest of your system be comprised of that the 2395 will be part of?

[doucanoe]

Historically; in the nightclubs at least....
(and in my basement too)
it was/is common to cross them somewhere near 800Hz with 18db slopes;


i also had more than satisfactory results crossing them at 1200Hz with 12db slopes

Hey LG, I have a pair of Altec N801-8A networks kicking around here somewhere to play around with but those are 2nd order top and bottom. Maybe I'll have to build something.

RC