2344's with 2020's

[1audiohack]

Over the Fourth of July weekend I built four each of these and the four subs in the back ground.

DIY is so rewarding! I haven't built any loud speaker systems for several years, man it feels good! I haven't swept them yet and hope to get a crossover worked out this weekendfor the two ways.


Originally Posted by Titanium Dome

Did you repaint the horns, or were they new/in pristine condition?

1Audiohack,

I too am interested to know if your 2234 was repainted. If it is, would you mind sharing any secrets on your finishing process. I have two that I will soon attempt to restore and would appreciate any pointers from anyone with experience with this foam material. I know this should be the start of new thread but lacking the wherewithall to do so (Noob). Thanks in advance.

I am sorry to say that they were far from pristine. They are now painted with Martin Senour "Trim Black" lacquer, it has more body and pigment by far than any other rattle can lacquer paint l have ever used. It sprays like real car paint. It's the best matte black I have ever found, in a can. I bought it at Napa Auto Parts.

I have also used SEM brand "Trim Black", maybe from the same manufacturer, it seems the exact same.

As far as prep goes, treat it like a real job! The very first thing you do is wash them with mild soap and water, then go buy some wax and grease remover from an automotive paint house and get the surfaces very dry. You wipe it on wet with one towel and pick it up before it dries with another perfectly clean towel, never using the same part of the pick up towel twice, over and over until your pick up towel stays clean. The goal is to float the oils to the surface and wipe them up before the carrier evaporates and redeposits it in the surface again. Heres the trouble, these things are porous, about like a sanding primer, and everything you do (sanding and sanding and sanding) will push the wax (the wifes Lemon Pledge) and oils further into the foam. You just have to start clean and stay clean throughout the process.

There is an art to sanding. I used to paint cars for fun and profit in years gone by and you can really make or break the job sanding.

Jonis are yours damaged or just in need of a new color top coat?

[Jonis]

Jonis are yours damaged or just in need of a new color top coat?

They have a few scratches/depressions that need filling. I was going to try Bondo first.

[Jonis]

I also should add that these seem to have some silicone-like sealant around the edges that maybe someone (or the factory) used to seal off the cabinet/horn interface. For the most part, it rubs/scratches off with fingernail. But I know what silicone can do to a finish--Fisheyes. Should this get any special treatment above and beyond the mild soap, wax/grease remover already mentioned?

BTW, I painted my '67 Beetle years ago (for fun only) and I think I fully understand your statement about making or breaking with the sanding. My grandfather's quote (persistent observer from his lawn chair in the backyard), "Doesn't look bad, at 20 yards on a galloping horse." Thanks, Grandad. But he was right-- it didn't stand up to close inspection. I hope to do a little better with these and I think I've tapped into the right resource. Thanks again and I'm all ears.

[1audiohack]

I hope it's not silicone, I don't know of a solovent that would get the slicone out and not destroy the plastic foam. If it is silicone the best you might be able to do is carefully scrape it off, clean the best you can, scuff it, clean it again and dust coat over it a million times so it doesn't fisheye. All of mine have or had only foam tape on the back side.

As for filler I think bondo is considerably harder than the horn and could lead you to oversand the horn while trying to level the plastic body filler if you were not very careful. I used a filler for plastic models I found at the hobby store that worked out great, I can't for the life of me remeber what it is called, I will note it tonight and let you know. Coarse sharp paper levels better than smooth and or dull paper, I would start with 360 grit and do all the rough work with that until you have all the imperfection out, I then sanded out a couple of coats at 400 and then ended with 600, paint, let harden for a week, sand out shrunken scratches if any, paint again, wait a week, repeat until your satisfied.

I just realized paint starts with pain!

Here's the anatomy of a small folded horn sub.

I have one more 2344 to do and it is by far the roughest of the four, I will take some pic's as I go if you're interested.

[Jonis]

First of all, Thanks again for sharing your knowledge/experiences. This will help me alot.

Great folded horn design. We're all waiting for more details on this. Please share--- and yes, I'm very interested in seeing more info/pictures on your finishing of the final 2344.

I had the same concerns regarding filling with bondo. I'll try your stuff instead. I'll also take your approach in dealing with potential silicone residue.

Let the painting begin!