I need some suggestions as to which binding posts to get...I want to use 5 way binding posts.
I need some suggestions as to which binding posts to get...I want to use 5 way binding posts.
Have upgraded those crappy spring loaded OEM posts to 5 ways many times ...on some models you will have to enlarge the cabinet poke thru hole very slightly, otherwise a piece of cake....(sometimes you will find additional problems when doing this, ie: wires/connections in need of insulation or stripped T-nuts. You will have to remove woofer, so make sure you know where each wire goes in reconnecting.)Originally Posted by whitese
Have NEVER seen binding post connected to xover board (at least on JBL's - AR & Bose do), its always been just wires to it, and there are even slipover connectors for the back of the 5 ways.
Disclaimer: have never opened L96's
Some kind of happiness is measured out in miles
No, but I should... L150A's anyway, same arrangement and network, IIRC
(red cap is cracked, and therefore does not hold the wire tightly). My L96's
have held up better in this regard.
These aren't the spring loaded variety... the insert-wire and twist-knob/cap type.
I haven't had them apart recently enough to recall if the stock terminals go directly
to the circuit board (pain) or are wired (much easier). I'll keep an eye on
this thread and will pop back in if I have anything to contribute. Cheers.
To add to what has already been said here, Parts Express now carries premium connectors, of all types, and in varying price and quality levels.
As for any sonic benefits of the high priced, whateverium plated binding posts, I don't know one way or the other, YOU DECIDE WHAT YOU HEAR FROM WHAT. And which ones you like.
But, I agree many speaker cabinets will benefit physically by upgrading to better binding post terminals. Heavier gauge metal, solid build quality, and the ability to accept larger gauge speaker wire.
www.partsexpress.com
scottyj
Why did JBL stay with those spring loaded pieces of crap for so many years ?? 20 avg max.....The twist locks were only marginally better - they were 1 ways too, (and broke often)..too
Altec used the same ones..
Some kind of happiness is measured out in miles
Yeah, I am sick of having to use a separate pair of speaker cables just because of the old style posts...I am not looking for better sound per say, but mainly convinience and strength.
I ordered these:
If I had to guess, my opinion is all those years ago we weren't as wire gauge conscious as we are today. And JBL being a SUPER LARGE MANUFACTURER probably ordered who knows how many thousands of pieces of a part when they place their orders, so they had so many in stock they just used them until users really began to complain, and/or marketing dictated they needed to use STATUS SYMBOL connectors!Why did JBL stay with those spring loaded pieces of crap for so many years ?? 20 avg max.....The twist locks were only marginally better - they were 1 ways too, (and broke often)..too
Altec used the same ones..
My guess!
scottyj
I used these:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...umber=091-1247
on my L96s. You want to be careful of the height of the posts so they don't stick out past the back of the cabinet. These are perfect. The hole in the XO plate will be different depending on which variation of XO is in your speakers. These have knurled shafts, so the hole wants to be a little small and you force the post into the hole. Otherwise they will eventually wind up spinning. Most likely you'll also need to replace the connector on the wires from the XO.
Again there's a lot of variation in the L96 XO boards. Some are Masonite, some might be plastic, etc.
Does anyone have a picture of the finished job from the inside also?
Here's the other side of the inside. Ignore the goobers on the surface, that was from a previous butcher job. This is a plastic XO board.
when you have one hand inside tightening the shaft nut and the other hand around back holding the knurled knob, and get it tight, the knob on the back will now be too tight too.
I've learned a good trick.....back the knurled knob all the way out. fetch a small Allen wrench and insert the small leg into the wire tunnel in the binding post....now you can tighten the internal nut really tight and wont affect the outside knob..and you can get the hole to align where you want it.
try it....I've never read it anywhere, but its the best tip i can give....
Some kind of happiness is measured out in miles
All done, it about 30 minutes...no messing with sizes, simply perfect!!
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