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Thread: Bad 2235H?

  1. #16
    RIP 2011 neanderthal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loren42 View Post
    Audible sound level may not have too loud, but subsonic rumble may have had a lot more energy and thus caused the bottoming out of the woofer.
    And do you think a high pass filter would eliminate the subsonic rumble or subsonic anything if that's the cause?

  2. #17
    Administrator Robh3606's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Loren42
    Audible sound level may not have too loud, but subsonic rumble may have had a lot more energy and thus caused the bottoming out of the woofer.


    And do you think a high pass filter would eliminate the subsonic rumble or subsonic anything if that's the cause?
    I have never had the 2235's in my 4344 clones hit their mass rings. The only time I have had that happen is in a B380 clone listening to "Cloverfield" and the cannons in "Master and Comander" at high SPL levels. Never had it happen on any music source only HT as a sub.

    Rob
    "I could be arguing in my spare time"

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robh3606 View Post
    I have never had the 2235's in my 4344 clones hit their mass rings. The only time I have had that happen is in a B380 clone listening to "Cloverfield" and the cannons in "Master and Comander" at high SPL levels. Never had it happen on any music source only HT as a sub.

    Rob
    Hi Rob,

    That is exactly the same as my experience. Just pull back below 30hz works. I prefer to leave it wide open though simply for the fact that sometimes I like it real low. Just turn it down a bit.

    Allan.

  4. #19
    Senior Member Loren42's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by neanderthal View Post
    And do you think a high pass filter would eliminate the subsonic rumble or subsonic anything if that's the cause?
    It can not hurt! This circuit should be just about perfect for you. It is tuned for 17 Hz, but you can change it easily enough if you need to.

  5. #20
    RIP 2011 neanderthal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loren42 View Post
    It can not hurt! This circuit should be just about perfect for you. It is tuned for 17 Hz, but you can change it easily enough if you need to.
    The link looks good as far as what little I know. This is where I wish I knew or was more technical to be able to put that filter together.As it is I have to pay someone with the knowledge to put it together because my electronic knowledge is basically nil.
    I do have common sense though and was able to solder all the cables and hook everything up.

  6. #21
    Senior Member Loren42's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by neanderthal View Post
    The link looks good as far as what little I know. This is where I wish I knew or was more technical to be able to put that filter together.As it is I have to pay someone with the knowledge to put it together because my electronic knowledge is basically nil.
    I do have common sense though and was able to solder all the cables and hook everything up.
    Should not be a problem if you order the PCB. Just buy the components, push them into the circuit board, solder, and clean with acetone of alcohol. You need a power supply, but there are off-the-shelf power supplies you could buy.

    Stuff it in a metal box with connectors and you should be good to go. If you have a PC test program like HolmImpulse you can actually test the circuit and see the results graphically.

  7. #22
    RIP 2011 neanderthal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loren42 View Post
    Should not be a problem if you order the PCB. Just buy the components, push them into the circuit board, solder, and clean with acetone of alcohol. You need a power supply, but there are off-the-shelf power supplies you could buy.

    Stuff it in a metal box with connectors and you should be good to go. If you have a PC test program like HolmImpulse you can actually test the circuit and see the results graphically.

    I'll look into this,it sounds easy enough. I still have to put the 2235's back into the 4350 cabinet I had to get reconed.Too much goin on gettin ready for summer

  8. #23
    Senior Member Russellc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by remusr View Post
    Dr House here - I would expect it is your relatively small 60wpc amp clipping and not the 2235 bottoming! I had a DH500 clipping into my L100T's and making a click, suspected it was the woofers but it turned out to be the amp - the 12" woof could take more than the DH500's 250wpc rms so I think it unlikely 60wpc is bottoming your 2235. I can put more than my Mac's 350watts into my L300, 4430, 4435's with no issue. "...more speakers are damaged by low power than high power...." Now if you hear it rubbing all the time the 2235 may be damaged but if it clicks at high volumes it is almost certainly your amp. A misleading thing is your volume control as the pre-amp section always has more voltage amplification than needed to overdrive the power-amp section. Most amps I've used start clipping with the control at 12 o'clock - what appears to be 1/2 volume is in fact enough pre-amp output to overdrive your power amp.
    By the by, they were reconed 2225H, work done at Slice speakers in KC!

    Agreed. I drive the wholly crap out of mine and never, never have I hit the pole piece. Maybe the mass ring came loose? I've had them playing very loud with various amps, 25 watt MC-225, JBL 6230, a 150 watt Mitsubishi Amp, and my DIY 6550/KT-88 amp. Never a problem, tuning varies from 30 hz, ( 2 vents closed on 4507) and 34 Hz (1 vent closed on 4507), never hit anything and no one could barely hear anyone saying anything!

    russellc

  9. #24
    Senior Member Loren42's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russellc View Post
    By the by, they were reconed 2225H, work done at Slice speakers in KC!

    Agreed. I drive the wholly crap out of mine and never, never have I hit the pole piece. Maybe the mass ring came loose? I've had them playing very loud with various amps, 25 watt MC-225, JBL 6230, a 150 watt Mitsubishi Amp, and my DIY 6550/KT-88 amp. Never a problem, tuning varies from 30 hz, ( 2 vents closed on 4507) and 34 Hz (1 vent closed on 4507), never hit anything and no one could barely hear anyone saying anything!

    russellc
    Did your setup include a filter for sub-sonics?

  10. #25
    Senior Member Russellc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loren42 View Post
    Did your setup include a filter for sub-sonics?
    NO. Just the passive crossover for the speaker. Box is about 5 cu ft.

    russellc

  11. #26
    jbl
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russellc View Post
    NO. Just the passive crossover for the speaker. Box is about 5 cu ft.

    russellc
    If you don't play your system at very loud levels with subsonic bass, you can get away without a filter. I have a 15 Hz filter on my Marantz 3650 which should protect my 2235.

  12. #27
    Senior Member Loren42's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russellc View Post
    NO. Just the passive crossover for the speaker. Box is about 5 cu ft.

    russellc
    Vented, I take it?

    Where is it tuned?

  13. #28
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    I had this issue with my B-380. When I first worked it into my system I was using a Hafler DH-500 that had been internally bridged. I remember a conversation with someone at JBL tech support recommending a Urei subsonic filter. I never got one. I just figured I would only play it so loud. However a couple of years later the power switch on the Hafler crapped out and rather than jury rig it [pre- internet couldn't find parts and my local tech couldn't fix it] I purchased a Parasound HCA-1500A to replace it. Bridged mono still about 600 watts @ 8ohms, but holy crap that B-380 could play twice as loud [stupid loud] and still not make the pop. I don't pretend to understand electronics, but clearly it was the amp not keeping up with the speaker [as they warned in the owners manual]. Only change I made to the system was the sub amp. When I got a second B-380, my local JBL tech hooked me up with a Crest 7000 series pro amp for the subs. About 500 watts per channel and neither ever made a pop. The attachment is from the B-380 manual.

    You can rotate the view of this PDF. See the section on "associated equipment"
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by rusty jefferson; 04-11-2010 at 05:46 PM. Reason: misspell

  14. #29
    RIP 2013 Rolf's Avatar
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    Most of these problems (woofer "sparking") is lack of power. With 700W to the woofer; no problem.

  15. #30
    RIP 2011 neanderthal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rolf View Post
    Most of these problems (woofer "sparking") is lack of power. With 700W to the woofer; no problem.

    The Crown K2 pushing a 4ohm load is 800w to four 2235's

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