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Thread: 053ti repair or replace?

  1. #1
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    053ti repair or replace?

    Just bought a pair of ex-studio LSR 6328p's going cheap. Both tweeters are dented, one worse than the other, although they both appear to be producing a decent enough signal.

    Is removing the diaphragm to re-shape the dome a really fiddly job? (I'm not that DIY savvy)

    One of the dust cups is also dented but I don't think it's torn.

    Anyhow, great speakers!


    2 Pics of the bad one:

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    and the not so bad:

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    dust cap:

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    Main: PC (optimised) ->U2 Sabre async-> Slagleformer-> Job 225-> L96-> SVS SB12NSD. Bedroom: Audio-GD NFB6-> LCR 6328P

  2. #2
    Senior Member 4343's Avatar
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    Cool

    I'd think you'd want to replace those, due in part to the coating having fallen off. There are several on ebay right now including 053Tis, which is listed as fitting your speaker.

    Dust domes of that variety often respond favorably to a few drops of water in the creases, then when it's softened up, a gentle application of vacuum. Try a paper towel roll tube, or it's shorter cousin to manually apply suction...
    Mike Scott in SJ, CA
    Drive 'em to the Xmax!

  3. #3
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    thanks Mike-ordered. My bargain 6328p's are not so bargain any more . Still, £520 total for the speakers is okay considering they cost upwards from £2,100 new here.

    Main: PC (optimised) ->U2 Sabre async-> Slagleformer-> Job 225-> L96-> SVS SB12NSD. Bedroom: Audio-GD NFB6-> LCR 6328P

  4. #4
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    Just out of interest though, would the best way of repairing the domes be to remove the tweeter and then the diaphragm?
    Main: PC (optimised) ->U2 Sabre async-> Slagleformer-> Job 225-> L96-> SVS SB12NSD. Bedroom: Audio-GD NFB6-> LCR 6328P

  5. #5
    Senior Member HCSGuy's Avatar
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    If they made a replacement dome kit, you would remove the amp from the back, then the tweeter also from the back of the speaker. Swapping the dome kit is easy as long as you're careful. My 6328p's have also had damaged domes, and I was able to find replacement tweeters, but the replacements were not shielded as the originals, so I swapped the dome assemblies from one pair to the others.

    It is conceivable that you could pull the dome, smooth it from the back, and paint it flat black. It might look good enough that an untrained eye could not tell it had been damaged. However. once the dome has been dented, it's strength is forever compromised and it is no longer pistonic over the same range. Also, the Aquaplas coating serves a purpose in damping the dome. Can you "Fix" it, yes, probably. Will it still make noise, yes, but it will not sound like it did before it was damaged. You may notice, you may not...
    That the internet contains a blog documenting your life does not constitute proof that your existence is valid. Sorry.

  6. #6
    Senior Member 4343's Avatar
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by HCSGuy View Post
    If they made a replacement dome kit, you would remove the amp from the back, then the tweeter also from the back of the speaker. Swapping the dome kit is easy as long as you're careful. My 6328p's have also had damaged domes, and I was able to find replacement tweeters, but the replacements were not shielded as the originals, so I swapped the dome assemblies from one pair to the others.

    It is conceivable that you could pull the dome, smooth it from the back, and paint it flat black. It might look good enough that an untrained eye could not tell it had been damaged. However. once the dome has been dented, it's strength is forever compromised and it is no longer pistonic over the same range. Also, the Aquaplas coating serves a purpose in damping the dome. Can you "Fix" it, yes, probably. Will it still make noise, yes, but it will not sound like it did before it was damaged. You may notice, you may not...
    Also, when the Ti gets a crease like the worst one above, it tends to shatter when you press from the rear. (I have a nice domeless voice coil and diamond suspension in the box the new diaphragm came in!)

    I was fortunate that my "bargain" 4412A's use 052Ti's, which still have diaphragms available. By the time I bought a pair of those, a pair of new grilles, and replaced a midrange, they were no longer in the bargain category, but had moved into the "Still a Good Deal" category...
    Mike Scott in SJ, CA
    Drive 'em to the Xmax!

  7. #7
    Senior Member grumpy's Avatar
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    It is conceivable that you could pull the dome, smooth it from the back, and paint it flat black.
    I suppose it is worth asking why...
    It would not really be a repair at all, but a cover up ... both cosmetically and functionally.
    If the point was to net a bargain and to own a piece of JBL with the name plate on it, well, there you go...
    nice doorstops. Perhaps that's a step up. I have no way of knowing.

    I would understand more if the question was something about repairing the cabinet or replacing
    connectors that had broken off. Otherwise, why not just purchase less capable equipment at a lower price
    and be done with it (possibly performing even better than JBL units with damaged/"repaired" tweeters)?

  8. #8
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    Well, the rep from the company who is responsible for JBL pro servicing in the UK, said " I’d still give it a go personally- from the photos I would say I’ve had similar put back into successful use. ....."
    Main: PC (optimised) ->U2 Sabre async-> Slagleformer-> Job 225-> L96-> SVS SB12NSD. Bedroom: Audio-GD NFB6-> LCR 6328P

  9. #9
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    They're here!

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    Before I take the plunge, it's simply a case of removing these screws, the amp and then tweeters?

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    Main: PC (optimised) ->U2 Sabre async-> Slagleformer-> Job 225-> L96-> SVS SB12NSD. Bedroom: Audio-GD NFB6-> LCR 6328P

  10. #10
    Senior Member HCSGuy's Avatar
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    Did you get complete replacement tweeters, or rebuild kits?

    If I remember, you take off the back plate, then you have to disconnect some wiring, as they didn't leave enough slack to work in the box with the amplifier connected. Otherwise, it's a simple parts swap. Other than keeping track of what wire goes where (they all use different types of connectors, so it's hard to do it wrong), I guess the biggest risk is that you dent the new tweeter putting it in.

    Have fun, and let us know how you like the sound when they're like new again.
    That the internet contains a blog documenting your life does not constitute proof that your existence is valid. Sorry.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by HCSGuy View Post
    Did you get complete replacement tweeters, or rebuild kits?

    If I remember, you take off the back plate, then you have to disconnect some wiring, as they didn't leave enough slack to work in the box with the amplifier connected. Otherwise, it's a simple parts swap. Other than keeping track of what wire goes where (they all use different types of connectors, so it's hard to do it wrong),

    Have fun, and let us know how you like the sound when they're like new again.
    Thanks. It's full tweeters.



    I guess the biggest risk is that you dent the new tweeter putting it in.
    Arhh, no way!
    Main: PC (optimised) ->U2 Sabre async-> Slagleformer-> Job 225-> L96-> SVS SB12NSD. Bedroom: Audio-GD NFB6-> LCR 6328P

  12. #12
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    Well, there were a few wires to pull out the main circuit board in order to get decent room to unscrew the tweeter:


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    Plus three from the tweeter itself:


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    but it was an easy fifteen minute job in all:


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    old and new


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    Main: PC (optimised) ->U2 Sabre async-> Slagleformer-> Job 225-> L96-> SVS SB12NSD. Bedroom: Audio-GD NFB6-> LCR 6328P

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