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Thread: Universal Bass Modules

  1. #1
    Administrator Robh3606's Avatar
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    Universal Bass Modules

    I finally had a chance to start these today. Really nice day here so it was a pleasure being outside. I ended up trying the 2" mdf corners. They are finished very nicely and line up with standard 3/4 mdf sheets. Have to finish tops and backs tommorow and build up a jig to attach the corners to the front baffle.

    Rob
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    "I could be arguing in my spare time"

  2. #2
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    I'm doing a similar project with the 4" roundovers for the edges. The cab is overall curved and has replaceable baffles for either 12"s or 15"s. Still finalizing some details but they're built and I'm looking forward to finishing them up.

  3. #3
    Administrator Robh3606's Avatar
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    Hello Badman

    Using the 4"s! Those a big. I was looking at them but I needed to keep the width down. I am not switching drivers I am switching high frequency heads. I have to cut more wood today and put them together during the week.

    Why don't you start a thread about your boxes and drop some pictures in. We don't get enough people documenting DIY threads here. Are they going to use sealed or reflex woofers? Do you have a removable bass ports or are your ports part of the baffle if you need them?

    Rob
    "I could be arguing in my spare time"

  4. #4
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    Very Nice Rob !

    Cool, I never knew these premade roundovers even existed till now .

    ( I suppose I need to get out more )

    Thanks <>

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    Member tinnitus's Avatar
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    Octagonal Cabinets

    why not try building a cabinet based on an octogon or hexagon. The layout in straightforward and the curved sides are all the same length. Here's an example of a cabinet I'm working on for a pair of 116H's - 30 liters based on the volume of the 4301B cabinet. The penciled arrow is for illustration of how to build for a larger driver with modifying the volume to accomodate the driver of course. The view is the plan view of the cabinet. Another picture of a Vifa/Scan Speak 2-way called the birdhouses by some friends.

    For the removable baffle, make a cutout in the inner baffle for the 15" driver. Add an outer baffle with bolt/screw on plates just oversized from the 12" or 15" drivers and bolt that to the inner baffle. The inner birdhouse brace (minus port cutout kinda shows the outer baffle locaion. The pencil lines on the inner baffle show the bolt on plate for swapping driver configurations.

    Just thoughts to help spark design,
    Gary
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    Member tinnitus's Avatar
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    French Cleat (?)

    In cabinet making I believe there is a joint called the french cleat. You take a piece of wood and cut a 45 degree angle across it. One piece of the wood is mounted to the wall and the other mounted to the cabinet. When the cabinet is slid on the wall the miter joint holds the cabinet to the wall. This joint might be applied to the removeable baffles to help secure it to the speaker cabinet.

    Alternative might be putting indexing pins in place to help locate the baffle to the cabinet in a repeatable fashion. Before finishing or veneering the outer baffle drill a hole through the removeable baffle and into the inner baffle but not through it. Push a dowel peg into the hole gluing only to the outer baffle. When you place the outer baffle on the cabinet the pegs align the two peices of wood each time.

    Thefrench cleat and indexing dowels are mutually exclusive because they work in different planes.

    Again hopefully helpful woodworking ideas.
    Gary
    I take wood and make sawdust

  7. #7
    Administrator Robh3606's Avatar
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    Finally got them together. Those corners are nice. It would have been better to use biscuits but I don't have a cutter. Can't wait to load them.

    why not try building a cabinet based on an octogon or hexagon.
    That would mean having to redo the crossovers or design new ones from scratch. I already have my crossover done.

    Rob
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  8. #8
    Senior Member lgvenable's Avatar
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    rob'
    where did you get the corners? The enclosures build look slick and straight forward.
    Integra DHC80.1,3x 4636LF, 2360-2446J 2404H,12 x 8340 Surrounds, 2 x4645B, BGW 250D's,250E's,& 750B's 16 amps...7600 watts

  9. #9
    Administrator Robh3606's Avatar
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    where did you get the corners?
    Got them from here. They have a large seletion, fill orders and ship the same day. Mine got to me well packed in a couple of days. There just boxes with the corners so yes they were an easy build.

    http://www.aitwood.com/


    Rob
    "I could be arguing in my spare time"

  10. #10
    Senior Member lgvenable's Avatar
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    rob
    these are called mdf quarter rounds?, maybe I'm dense, I didn't see the exact profile you used. Any chance you could post your part number used?
    Integra DHC80.1,3x 4636LF, 2360-2446J 2404H,12 x 8340 Surrounds, 2 x4645B, BGW 250D's,250E's,& 750B's 16 amps...7600 watts

  11. #11
    Administrator Robh3606's Avatar
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    "I could be arguing in my spare time"

  12. #12
    Senior Member lgvenable's Avatar
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    rob
    these are called mdf quarter rounds?, maybe I'm dense, I didn't see the exact profile you used. Any chance you could post your part number used?
    Integra DHC80.1,3x 4636LF, 2360-2446J 2404H,12 x 8340 Surrounds, 2 x4645B, BGW 250D's,250E's,& 750B's 16 amps...7600 watts

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    2QL-3496-MDF

  14. #14
    Member tinnitus's Avatar
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    Nice way to speed up construction.
    I take wood and make sawdust

  15. #15
    Senior Member pos's Avatar
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    Nice, and certainly useful to reduce edge diffraction!!
    Are you going to load them with some LE14H?

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