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Thread: Quick woofer seal questions (LE-10)

  1. #1
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    Quick woofer seal questions (LE-10)

    Hi

    What's the best glue to use? (I have at hand a tube of the 'Bostik, all purpose, dries in minutes' variety)

    Should the seal be showing at all after the woofer is in place, as in the photo?

    Thanks



    Main: PC (optimised) ->U2 Sabre async-> Slagleformer-> Job 225-> L96-> SVS SB12NSD. Bedroom: Audio-GD NFB6-> LCR 6328P

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    Administrator Robh3606's Avatar
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    There is a recessed ring in the woofer frame where the round gasket goes on the driver. You should still be able to get them. Try JBL Pro. Look through the Tech Sheets for the Part Number

    What's the best glue to use?
    None!! Don't use glue. Use a non-hardening gasket material. You can get it at Parts Express as one possible source.

    Rob
    "I could be arguing in my spare time"

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    Dammit, that shows the importance of asking when you're not sure. Didn't even notice the recessed ring . Parts Express is in Canada so will need to find non-hardening material closer to home. Any suggestions from UK'ers appreciated.

    Thanks, Rob

    One more thing: noticed that one woofer has a tiny wire (see below) while the other doesn't. Is this a problem?

    Main: PC (optimised) ->U2 Sabre async-> Slagleformer-> Job 225-> L96-> SVS SB12NSD. Bedroom: Audio-GD NFB6-> LCR 6328P

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    Senior Member Eaulive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ralph856 View Post
    Dammit, that shows the importance of asking when you're not sure. Didn't even notice the recessed ring . Parts Express is in Canada so will need to find non-hardening material closer to home. Any suggestions from UK'ers appreciated.

    Thanks, Rob

    One more thing: noticed that one woofer has a tiny wire (see below) while the other doesn't. Is this a problem?

    If you're talking about what's in the center of the picture, it's not a wire, it's just a thread of glue that dried there.

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    Senior Member ratitifb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eaulive View Post
    If you're talking about what's in the center of the picture, it's not a wire, it's just a thread of glue that dried there.
    the excess of glue on back of the cone is a more important issue
    Who has made the refoam job ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ralph856 View Post
    Hi

    What's the best glue to use? (I have at hand a tube of the 'Bostik, all purpose, dries in minutes' variety)

    Should the seal be showing at all after the woofer is in place, as in the photo?

    Thanks
    You should never need any glue or gasket to mount the older LE series to the baffle (LE120H an exception, and I have never seen a LE14H-x) I take it that this driver is not original to the cabinet you are installing it in, correct? All of the o-ring LE series woofers are very particular about the cutout size. There was originally a PVC o-ring around the back that sealed the frame to the front baffle. If the hole is too large or irregularly shaped the o-ring won't seal, too small, and the frame won't seat.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ratitifb View Post
    the excess of glue on back of the cone is a more important issue
    Who has made the refoam job ?
    A 'respected' company called Wembley Loudspeaker. It's the same on both drivers. Is it really bad?




    One driver also buzzes when there is really strong bass. I'm hoping it's not to do with the voice coil beginning to separate from the cone. Is there any way I can take a close up photo to prove one way or the other?
    Main: PC (optimised) ->U2 Sabre async-> Slagleformer-> Job 225-> L96-> SVS SB12NSD. Bedroom: Audio-GD NFB6-> LCR 6328P

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    Quote Originally Posted by ROSSO View Post
    You should never need any glue or gasket to mount the older LE series to the baffle (LE120H an exception, and I have never seen a LE14H-x) I take it that this driver is not original to the cabinet you are installing it in, correct? All of the o-ring LE series woofers are very particular about the cutout size. There was originally a PVC o-ring around the back that sealed the frame to the front baffle. If the hole is too large or irregularly shaped the o-ring won't seal, too small, and the frame won't seat.
    To the best of my knowledge, the drivers are originals and the cabinets were in excellent shape when I bought the L96's last summer.

    So, you think I shouldn't use any kind of gasket, even non hardening material?
    Main: PC (optimised) ->U2 Sabre async-> Slagleformer-> Job 225-> L96-> SVS SB12NSD. Bedroom: Audio-GD NFB6-> LCR 6328P

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    Administrator Robh3606's Avatar
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    So, you think I shouldn't use any kind of gasket,
    The original white "O" ring is the gasket. If it's in good shape and the cabinet cut-outs are not chipped or have missing edges you should be OK.

    Rob
    "I could be arguing in my spare time"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ralph856 View Post
    Should the seal be showing at all after the woofer is in place, as in the photo?
    If the white is the o-ring extruding out from under the flat side frame, looks like it just needs to be reseated in it's groove. Still shouldn't need any type of sealant.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ralph856 View Post
    ...One driver also buzzes when there is really strong bass. I'm hoping it's not to do with the voice coil beginning to separate from the cone. Is there any way I can take a close up photo to prove one way or the other?
    You an use an adhesive remover on the glue that fixes the dust cap to the cone, then gently separate the cap from the cone. The cone-voice coil joint is then visible. It can be reglued if it's notcompletely separated. You should shim the voice coil to do so. Paper shims are likely the right thickeness. I just did exactly this to a buzzing LE-14A I was given for free. Works great now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ROSSO View Post
    You an use an adhesive remover on the glue that fixes the dust cap to the cone, then gently separate the cap from the cone. The cone-voice coil joint is then visible. It can be reglued if it's notcompletely separated. You should shim the voice coil to do so. Paper shims are likely the right thickeness. I just did exactly this to a buzzing LE-14A I was given for free. Works great now.
    Lol, that may prove a bit tricky for me to attempt to do . Looks like I'll have to take it back to the shop who did the refoam.

    Out of interest, is all that glue on the back of the cone bad work that I have the right to ask to be removed? If they were to remove the glue (free of charge) I could also ask them to check out the cause of the buzzing at the same time. Might make doing that a bit cheaper.
    Main: PC (optimised) ->U2 Sabre async-> Slagleformer-> Job 225-> L96-> SVS SB12NSD. Bedroom: Audio-GD NFB6-> LCR 6328P

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robh3606 View Post
    The original white "O" ring is the gasket. If it's in good shape and the cabinet cut-outs are not chipped or have missing edges you should be OK.

    Rob
    The one white O ring that was glued is still usable but not perfect anymore. The other O ring is fine because I never touched it

    Is it possible to buy replacement O rings? Edit: you answered that previously.



    As far as the one woofer cut out that was glued is concerned, I applied a tiny drop of superglue at various points rather than around the whole circumference, so it's not too bad. Unfortunately, removing the O ring took off a little paint.

    Main: PC (optimised) ->U2 Sabre async-> Slagleformer-> Job 225-> L96-> SVS SB12NSD. Bedroom: Audio-GD NFB6-> LCR 6328P

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    Senior Member grumpy's Avatar
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    I've soaked those white o-rings in hot water and had them
    return closer to the original shape...

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    Quote Originally Posted by grumpy View Post
    I've soaked those white o-rings in hot water and had them
    return closer to the original shape...
    Thanks


    Quote Originally Posted by ratitifb View Post
    the excess of glue on back of the cone is a more important issue
    Who has made the refoam job ?
    Could you please elaborate on this comment from yesterday? Is the excess glue serious and can it be rectified by the people who did the refoam?
    Main: PC (optimised) ->U2 Sabre async-> Slagleformer-> Job 225-> L96-> SVS SB12NSD. Bedroom: Audio-GD NFB6-> LCR 6328P

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ralph856 View Post
    Thanks




    Could you please elaborate on this comment from yesterday? Is the excess glue serious and can it be rectified by the people who did the refoam?
    It's ugly but not a serious issue.

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