painting speaker face

[brad6285]

as i have stated before i got a set of bummed up speakers l112s i need to paint the black face of one of them. what kind of paint is the best to use. i was figuring on spraying it unless someone else has a better idea. it preped and ready to go. thanx brad

[hjames]

as i have stated before i got a set of bummed up speakers l112s i need to paint the black face of one of them. what kind of paint is the best to use. i was figuring on spraying it unless someone else has a better idea. it preped and ready to go. thanx brad

If you paint the face (the woofer cone?) the weight of the paint can change the mass and that changes its characteristics. Why paint it?
Or, you'd at least want to paint BOTH so they sound the same ...

[brad6285]

no not the woofer cone i have all the speakers out of the cab and need to paint the black face of the cab.

[rdgrimes]

It's a semi-gloss black. Rustoleum American Accents semi-gloss black from Lowes is a very close match, but I don't know if it comes in a spray can.

[Don Mascali]

I will tack on to this thread, hope you don't mind.

I bought a 2245H from a member and just installed it. It would appear to have been painted with something. My guess is spray can flat black. It looks pretty weird next to the other one now.
I haven't tested it with Woofer Tester II, but the extra weight has to make a difference.

What do you all think about painting it? :dont-know

[1audiohack]

Most of the sprayable paint I have used has a volatile VS solid ratio of about three to one. We worry about that kind of thing in racing. I reckon you could make a cone look plenty black with about 1 ounce or less of spray paint adding less than 10 grams of added weight when dried. With a moving mass of 185 grams for your 2245, I wouldn't loose sleep over it.

Subwoof explained to me a method of "blacking" done with printers ink. That may be apossibility as well. Maybe he will chime in.

[BMWCCA]

Let me remind you all:

no not the woofer cone i have all the speakers out of the cab and need to paint the black face of the cab.

[1audiohack]

Let me remind you all:
Quote:
Originally Posted by brad6285
no not the woofer cone i have all the speakers out of the cab and need to paint the black face of the cab.

Easy Trigger, rdgrimes answered that. I was answering Don.

[BMWCCA]

Easy Trigger, rdgrimes answered that. I was answering Don.

Sure, but these threads are hard enough to make sense of with disappearing posts over time confusing the subject and perpetuating a response due to an initial misconception. Painting cones might be an appropriate topic for another thread but then I'm certainly not a moderator so carry on as you will. I just wanted to clarify the OP's intent before the thread got way off tangent.

A simple answer to the original question used to be Krylon #1613 Semi-Flat Black, but that's gotten difficult to find other than by the case.

[brad6285]

since you cant get the krylon semi flat would a flat or satin black be the choice. i have a satin black rustoleum but i dont know if has too much of a sheen to it. thanx brad

[Wagner]

as i have stated before i got a set of bummed up speakers l112s i need to paint the black face of one of them. what kind of paint is the best to use. i was figuring on spraying it unless someone else has a better idea. it preped and ready to go. thanx brad

The best I have found is Ace Hardware's flat black lacquer.
Goes on smooth, cleans well, doesn't show smudges when handled, and once again can be wiped clean with a damp rag.
Black is a difficult color to maintain with most "paints".
Fast cure (again, lacquer) and cures hard so drivers and gaskets don't stick if you have to go back in.
I've pulled drivers from cabs I've had buttoned up for several years and the seals break clean.
No other paint will do that, I guaranty it, besides lacquer, unless you bake it or let it cure hard for days, weeks or months.
And even then............?
Covers very well too.
I use it exclusively on cabs where India ink touch ups won't do.
Also, since it's lacquer, when dry the original texture(s) of what's been sprayed remain.
In other words, it's hard to tell you've even done any paint work if you do a good job of masking.
Except for the fact that you will now have a perfect, blem free finish on 35-40 years old speakers.

Thomas

[Wagner]

And keep in mind, most assembly line wood work is* done with lacquer or lacquer based product due to the fast drying time.

I imagine it's closer to what was originally used than any plastic top coat films, or slow drying oil based pigments, sold in cans today. Except that JBL's black will CHIP like mad at the box joints and seams (could be the glue or filler used there?), so I'm not 100% certain what they used.

You can burnish, oil or even wax it (lacquer) if you like, within days if you wish.

The patina and the way it reflects light isn't exactly like the original, but pretty damn close. I don't think anyone could tell the difference between the pairs I've shot with this material and an original unless they were side by side. Well, some of the members here might be able to!

Thomas
*Maybe I should have said "was". " Was" done with lacquer following the "Age of Shellac" and up until wood all but disappeared from most household goods!

[BHamm]

Hello all. Just wanted to ad my experience. I am refinishing some cabs now and used the Ace flat black lacquer. After drying I sprayed over it with Deft brand clear flat lacquer. The clear really ads a measure of protection and matches the original finish very well. It wont smudge or blemish.

The best I have found is Ace Hardware's flat black lacquer.
Goes on smooth, cleans well, doesn't show smudges when handled, and once again can be wiped clean with a damp rag.
Black is a difficult color to maintain with most "paints".
Fast cure (again, lacquer) and cures hard so drivers and gaskets don't stick if you have to go back in.
I've pulled drivers from cabs I've had buttoned up for several years and the seals break clean.
No other paint will do that, I guaranty it, besides lacquer, unless you bake it or let it cure hard for days, weeks or months.
And even then............?
Covers very well too.
I use it exclusively on cabs where India ink touch ups won't do.
Also, since it's lacquer, when dry the original texture(s) of what's been sprayed remain.
In other words, it's hard to tell you've even done any paint work if you do a good job of masking.
Except for the fact that you will now have a perfect, blem free finish on 35-40 years old speakers.

Thomas

[Wagner]

Hello all. Just wanted to ad my experience. I am refinishing some cabs now and used the Ace flat black lacquer. After drying I sprayed over it with Deft brand clear flat lacquer. The clear really ads a measure of protection and matches the original finish very well. It wont smudge or blemish.

Deft's formula is a softer film when cured than the Ace. The only advantage to top coating with clear Deft is if you like or want the "look".

And that is fine if that is what you want and you like it. I just think it's overkill and compromises one of the biggest advantages of the Ace material: it's hardness.

When I restore badges that is the routine, Ace black first then I use an air brush to apply the clear Deft after wet sanding to expose the relief and provide a top coat and seal for the now silver parts of the badge. The clear gives the "J" "B" "L" softened edges and depth like a mint pair of factory finish badges exhibit. Some of mine have actually turned out better than some of the nicest "factory" pairs I possess.

I use Deft regularly on furniture projects. It is a fine product but is nowhere near as hard or durable when cured as "appliance" lacquer. I've learned the hard way that all "high traffic" horizontal surfaces finished with Deft need a piece of 1/4" glass to finish them off, unless you're into frequent touch ups.

Thomas

[BHamm]

I should note this process was not my idea. It was put together by someone else in a step by step process for restoring JBL cabs, like my 4425's.

I went by ACE today and did not see "appliance lacquer." They do carry Appliance epoxy, but I don't think that's the same thing.

I have compared the Deft clear/Ace flat black lacquer to the original JBL black baffles and it is a very close match. It is more durable than just the flat black paint, which has a tendency to show smudges and loose its original satin look IMO. It passed the fingernail test and can be wiped down without loosing its appearance, and for baffles which are mostly covered with grills, it's perfect.

I've settled on this process after trial and error, and I realize this is not the only way to get good results. I am recommending this for the front and rear black baffles only, not veneered wood or badge restoration

Deft's formula is a softer film when cured than the Ace. The only advantage to top coating with clear Deft is if you like or want the "look".

And that is fine if that is what you want and you like it. I just think it's overkill and compromises one of the biggest advantages of the Ace material: it's hardness.

When I restore badges that is the routine, Ace black first then I use an air brush to apply the clear Deft after wet sanding to expose the relief and provide a top coat and seal for the now silver parts of the badge. The clear gives the "J" "B" "L" softened edges and depth like a mint pair of factory finish badges exhibit. Some of mine have actually turned out better than some of the nicest "factory" pairs I possess.

I use Deft regularly on furniture projects. It is a fine product but is nowhere near as hard or durable when cured as "appliance" lacquer. I've learned the hard way that all "high traffic" horizontal surfaces finished with Deft need a piece of 1/4" glass to finish them off, unless you're into frequent touch ups.

Thomas