JBL 130A help/suggestions

[roads31]

Hey All,

One of my systems, Harkness, is loaded with a pristine pair of 130A's.
I know over time the edge will likely give out, any acceptable product to "paint" on to the edge to extend the life? Thanks for any and all suggestions.

Gary

[Wagner]

Hey All,

One of my systems, Harkness, is loaded with a pristine pair of 130A's.
I know over time the edge will likely give out, any acceptable product to "paint" on to the edge to extend the life? Thanks for any and all suggestions.

Gary

Treat the compliance roll ONLY, with a good sealer as used for fabric surrounds, something clear when dry, flexible when dry and water based.
DO NOT put any material on the cone's surface, just the roll.
OR!
Sell the collectible drivers to a collector, thus preserving them for posterity, and use the profit to fit your C40s with the modern equivalent woofer. There is one in "pro" but the model escapes me at the moment.
Good luck,
Thomas

[roads31]

Thanks for the info Thomas. As a JBL collector, I don't think I can part with them. As for finding a replacement, I think I'll start looking, hope I can find one that sounds as good.

[HCSGuy]

The D-130A's I have seen have a rolled paper surround painted with goop - don't know if it's the magical JBL Goop or something else. This doesn't tend to be very compliant, so you don't get alot of woofer movement, and I haven't seen any crack due to age - the bad ones I've seen have been poked. Newer D-130's have a fabric surround, which also ages well. D-130's were never made with the white Lansaloy surrounds which harden up. I'll let someone more experienced with the paper surrounds chime in if they have seen failures.

IMO, don't worry about yours, and enjoy them, but use them with the power they were intended for - they were built to handle 25 watts and the recordings of the day. 200watts of Hip-Hop and you may be searching Ebay for a new pair.

[BMWCCA]

IMO, don't worry about yours, and enjoy them, but use them with the power they were intended for - they were built to handle 25 watts and the recordings of the day. 200watts of Hip-Hop and you may be searching Ebay for a new pair.

My guess is the 130A had a more-stout cone material, compared to the D130, to go along with its copper voice coil. Hard to tell from the Library photos but it would appear the D130 at least acquired the treated (gooped) pleats sometime around 1966. FWIW, I've played my early D130s—pre-goop phase so un-doped pleats—loud for over 35 years seldom with less than about 100wpc on-tap. The cones and edges show no wear whatsoever. Of course is takes very little power for a D130 to fill a room but they were college-party speakers for several of those years and managed to live to tell about it!

[Earl K]

My guess is the 130A had a more-stout cone material, compared to the D130,,,, snip

- I don't believe that's the case when one compares an example of each model where each is sourced from the same era .
- OTOH, when comparing different eras I could buy into your comment .

- FWIW, my studies ( over the years ) of the various cone numbers appearing on old 130A(s) & D130(s) show they both share the same cone number ( printed on the back in white ) .

- Pre ( something like ) the early to mid 70s , the cone number was always; 130-202 // then after a change ( supplier related ?? or something to do with the "K" Series introduction ), the cone numbers became 21057 .

>< cheers

ps; Here's an example of my contentions . This "black" look was ( I always assumed ) reserved for the "K Series" . The pics are from this eBay sale .

[BMWCCA]

While not mine, there are good pictures here of an original D130 on The Bay: http://ebayitem.com/370249575072. It shows the earlier cone number as well as the un-doped surround accordion pleats, collected here for posterity, though it was always my assumption that JBL "gooped" that cone design after a certain date, too:

[speakerdave]

In the 2135 and 2220 era the t/s charts show 70 g mms for 2220 and 60 for 2135. That difference could be in the voice coil material (Cu v. Al), winding depth and former. It might be worth pointing out here that the cone kit and frame/motor are not interchangable, though they may use the same cone (only); I'm not so sure, though.

[HCSGuy]

We all agree that roads31 has nothing to worry about with his surrounds, right? I think the abundance of D130's and 130a's that are on Ebay are proof of this - heck, even 150-4C's with the paper surrounds in great shape aren't that rare.

Enjoy the sound - I'd be interested in hearing what recordings you think sound best on these...

[Harvey Gerst]

The 130A used exactly the same cone as the D130. I think JBL decided my "goop" treatment of the "F" series was a good idea for all these cones. It reduced surrounds cracking from drying out.

[roads31]

Hey HSCguy (and everyone else),

Thanks for the info and input.
Mostly I listen to older jazz recordings through this system, in my opinion not much sounds a lot better, at least at the price. I don't try to push anything through them where I expect a lot of bass, for that I slide over to the Metregon with the LE15's. I will listen away and try to not to be the over protective parent.

Gary

[doodle6]

I have just acquired a 230 model Metregon and am interested in converting it to a three way system. I am considering two approaches: 1. S82 conversion - change D130 to LE15A, add 375 and crossover, or 2. transfer 4333 components into Metregon cabinet.

Yeah, I know I'm exposing my gross ignorance with option 2. Can one of you wizards tell me exactly how stupid I really am?

And with option 1, can I use an H93 with the 375 instead of the 90˚ horn?

Help!!

[HCSGuy]

I have no experience with converting Metregons, but I see the appeal of a H93 - there's no way in hell you're going to find a H5041 bent horn for a 375 - anybody want to hazard a guess as to how many of these they made - maybe a hundred? Only application was the 375 in the Metregon, right? OTOH, Jammin Jersey says they have one, damaged mount, $200.