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Thread: Adding 077's

  1. #1
    Junior Member crofk's Avatar
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    Adding 077's

    I'd like some help in knowing what to do when I add 077's to my speakers. I currently have JBL 130s and LE85s withN600 crossovers. I know that I need something added in the crossover area but don't know what. Any help?

    Thanks, Kim
    "Extinct And Loving It"

  2. #2
    Senior Member 1audiohack's Avatar
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    The shop stock crossover would most likely be the 3106 or the N8000. If you don't want / need the "JBL" unit they are very simple to build.

    The schematics are posted somewhere around here and on the JBL Pro site in the vintage product section.

    Plenty of us have built them, give a yell if you want some help.

  3. #3
    Junior Member crofk's Avatar
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    Thanks 1Audiohack, I thought I'd seen a schematic for the addition of the 077s in a circuit somewhere but can't find it now. If memory serves me correctly, it just pulled off the hf side and was only a pot and cap but I don't know the values. Any help on this would be appreciated.

    Thanks again
    "Extinct And Loving It"

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    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    Maybe this is what you're looking for?

    http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Net...%20Network.pdf
    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

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    This is the 3133 circuit used in the pro-series monitors and creates a "hump" that compensates for a "dip" in the 077 response. The N8000/3106 circuit previously posted does not compensate for the dip and maybe even accentuates it a bit.

    http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Net...%20Network.pdf

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    Senior Member Beowulf57's Avatar
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    Here's a bit of fun reading for you: http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...ad.php?t=20973

    Although I use a D130 in a horn-loaded configuration rather than the 130, the mid and top drivers are similar to your setup.

  7. #7
    Junior Member crofk's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the help, I appreciate it. Part of this was my father's system (the speakers) which was built in. I made enclosures for the speakers and really just fooling around with them. After the highs comes trying to bring out the window rattling lows. They just don't seem to have it, don't know whether I built my boxes to big or what. Oh, I did check and they are D130's not just 130's. fwiw
    "Extinct And Loving It"

  8. #8
    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crofk View Post
    After the highs comes trying to bring out the window rattling lows. They just don't seem to have it, don't know whether I built my boxes to big or what. Oh, I did check and they are D130's not just 130's.
    Look no further.
    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

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    Senior Member Beowulf57's Avatar
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    If I recall correctly, the D130 has a free air resonance of 40Hz; the 130 is 20Hz. The D130 is an extended range transducer and a bit more sensitive than the 130. The 130 has a heavier cone and was designed for the bass region alone. With my folded corner horn loading I can get usable response to a bit below 30Hz and can "rattle the windows." But if you are looking for 20 Hz...consider a subwoofer. That said, if your cabinets are not the correct volume, you will lose bass response.

  10. #10
    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    There is also that issue of power-handling capacity toward producing those "window-rattling" lows. The D130 has a 4" aluminum voice coil where the 130A has copper. Somehow I just don't see the excursion on either really giving you what you're looking for but I am far from an expert. A horn-loaded cabinet would help a great deal. I do love the D130 for what it is, though.
    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

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    Quote Originally Posted by crofk View Post
    Thanks for all the help, I appreciate it.

    After the highs comes trying to bring out the window rattling lows. They just don't seem to have it, don't know whether I built my boxes to big or what. Oh, I did check and they are D130's not just 130's. fwiw

    Other than a subwoofer, lots of eq is the only way you will get there with those woofers (even if they were 130As).

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    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by toddalin View Post
    Other than a subwoofer, lots of eq is the only way you will get there with those woofers (even if they were 130As).
    Lots of EQ will also give you lots of distortion. The D130 has limited Xmax and a light curvilinear cone designed to produce an extended upper range with very little input power. Bass below 50Hz wasn't terribly important when the driver was designed.

    That said, as has been mentioned, the correct enclosure will certainly help.


    Widget

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Widget View Post
    Lots of EQ will also give you lots of distortion. The D130 has limited Xmax and a light curvilinear cone designed to produce an extended upper range with very little input power. Bass below 50Hz wasn't terribly important when the driver was designed.

    That said, as has been mentioned, the correct enclosure will certainly help.


    Widget

    Nobody said it would be pretty. Just a way to get there.

  14. #14
    Junior Member crofk's Avatar
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    Any suggestions for books on enclosure design and volumetric requirements of different drivers?
    "Extinct And Loving It"

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    Senior Member Beowulf57's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crofk View Post
    Any suggestions for books on enclosure design and volumetric requirements of different drivers?
    Have a look here at the 1960's and 1975 enclosure kit plans: http://www.lansingheritage.org/html/.../jbl-plans.htm

    Read through and you'll find references to the D130 and enclosure cabinets for that driver alone, or in combo with possibilities like the LE85 + 077.

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