L88 re-veneer

[qcautosports]

Is it possible to re-veneer the L88 box? Is this to be done by pros only?

[dprice]

I've done some veneer work on non-speaker type projects. I can't think of any reason why you can't DIY. However, I think everyone would agree that you should practice on something else first to convince yourself that you can do the quality job that you want with the tools and skills you have. Got a router and a laminate trim bit? If not, a good wood chisel and some time will do the job. No chisel? A razor blade and sanding block and even more time will also work. Got no tools and never really done any woodworking? Get help.

A pro cabinet shop or furniture restoration shop might be cheaper than you buying a $200 router and bit combo and then spending 20-40 hours trashing the garage to DIY. Of course, they won't give you tools when they are done. And there are always more projects...

Don

[ROSSO]

Is it possible to re-veneer the L88 box? Is this to be done by pros only?

Yes, you can do it. Not hard to do if you are patient and get the preglued, "fleece backed" veneer. It just irons on. Trim the edges with a razor blade, or buy one of the inexpensive made-for-the-task edge trimmers from a woodworking supply website.

In my experience, unless there is extensive water damage, it is not desirable, or possible, to remove the old veneer from the tops, bottom and sides. Most of these speaker cabinets are made from plywood or MDF that has the factory veneer applied under very high pressure and heat. I find it very difficult to remove. Easier to scrub it down with steel wool and laquer thinner (or xylene, acetone, etc, you want something that evaporates quickly, don't use mineral spirits, it takes forever to come out of the wood) to degrease it, then iron the new veneer over the old. The new stuff will be thicker.

If there are any major gouges or chipped corners they need to be repaired first. Some minor imperfections the veneer will cover nicely by itself.

Veneer the bottom first, then the sides, the top and finally the front, if need be. That way the edges will overlap so that they are less likely to be visible to a casual observer seated in front of the speaker.

In contrast, if the cabinets have banded edges, (L88 have an exposed front border that the grille does not cover?) the banding comes off quite readily with a hot iron and a flexible putty knife. It is so easy to replace the edgebanding, I almost do it automatically, if there are any issues at all. Buy a matching roll of edge banding veneer and replace it all. Don't iron down any intersecting banding right away. Overlap the ends then miter both at once with a razor blade and a straight edge, then iron down the ends together. Older Altec have LOTS of banded edges and I have several pair that I have refurbished. An edgebanding iron (about 40 bucks) makes it easier (much lighter, easier to manover into corners, etc), but is not necessary.

Personally, I would not use a router to trim veneer, plastic laminates yes, but veneer, no.

Good luck!