Jbl 2445j

[grumpy]

FWIW, translation: 4647=4507cab+2226H bass driver, maybe 2225H if older.

Have to read this off the back of the driver magnet assembly, not the box.

I'd personally suggest a higher xover than the 3115 provides with that
horn, and the -A suffix units have the CD compensation. The 3110 vs 3115
thing is just my preference and experience.

Worth a read of this thread:
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...ead.php?t=7480

4673 was a JBL theater system (same components with 3115A).
Might have a google search on that system...

[HemiMoparGuy198]

FWIW, translation: 4647=4507cab+2226H bass driver, maybe 2225H if older.

Have to read this off the back of the driver magnet assembly, not the box.

I'd personally suggest a higher xover than the 3115 provides with that
horn, and the -A suffix units have the CD compensation. The 3110 vs 3115
thing is just my preference and experience.

Worth a read of this thread:
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...ead.php?t=7480

4673 was a JBL theater system (same components with 3115A).
Might have a google search on that system...

Sorry, I knew the component breakdown, but I guess I assumed people would know what they were. After looking at the 4673's mentioned on JBL Pro website, that is exactly what my speakers look like...like someone tried to make them into 4673, but like the cheapest most cobbled way possible using the smallest angle brackets available at any hardware store, and drywall screws.

TY for finding that the 4673 is a manufactured version of what I have. I wonder why whomever built these speakers to clone the 4673 left out the crossover. Of course it figures I got interested in this project again after running new wires to the drivers and soldering connections for a bi-amp setup, and then I find out that they are basically cloned 4673's, and now I know what crossover I need, so all that work was wasted cuz I gotta clip the connectors off so I can put the wire in the 3115A's I found online.

Hopefully I get these up and running soon as they seem to have been neglected/abused by the previous owner trying to cobble them together. They had like 18-20 Ga wire to the woofer and I kid you not phone wire to the horn. Not the white phone wire coming from your wall plate, but the wire that is most likely ran from the NID box outside to the phone jacks in your home. So I replaced the wiring and over-killed it. I had plenty what I think was 10 ga Monster Cable, which I'm sure woulda been plenty, but instead, since there were 2 wires inside a clear thick plastic sheath, I twisted them both together and soldered the ends to make basically 5 ga wire to the woofers. And then I had some 16 ga speaker wire laying around so I put that to the horns. Like I said, I know it's over-kill, cuz the 25 ft patch cables with 1/4" connectors I have are not nearly 5 ga, and the speakers will never handle enough power to need the 5 ga, but hey, I had it and will prolly never really use it for anything else, so why not?

Anyway, Thanks for all the info it gives me a few ideas/options. The suggestion of buying smaller amps NEVER occured to me for some reason. I wanted to buy the amps that would put out basically the max power handling of the components. Then the discovery of the fact that I have a cobbled clone which tells me exactly what I need to finish these speakers properly

[doodlebug]

Depending on the size of your room, I'd invest in quality, low-wattage amps especially for the horns. We're not talking about a lot of power required to get it plenty loud. Also, the amp for the horns will need to be as quiet as possible. Get amps that have input controls so that you can adjust them and the crossover levels for the best gail throughout the system in order to minimize noise.

You have, essentially, what I now have for a system with the JBL bass units although I came across my stuff differently. I drive the bass cabs with a 100wpc SS amp and the horns with a Mac MC-225 (25wpc) tube amp through the electronic crossover. Or I can run the whole thing with a passive crossover with the Mac and it still gets plenty loud for my needs.

Enjoy!

Cheers,

David

[HemiMoparGuy198]

Wow, you think 25x2 will run both beasts at a decent volume? Maybe I'll just try my Sony bookshelf unit at first that has 100x2. I know it's not a high quality amp, but I always thought it sounded pretty good...having never been able to hear anything much superior to it.

[stage One Pro]

Hey All,

I have a set of JBL 2380A horns with 2445J drivers on the back. I need new diaphragms for the drivers. Do I really need to get the 16 ohm diaphragms or could I get the 8 ohm ones which would be better and require less power as they are less resistive? Any help is greatly appreciated.

TY in Advance,
Eric

Ty; I used the 2445j drivers with 2380a horns and they are great. It is better if you used the 16 ohm than the 8 ohm. 16ohm can handles more power and less burnout. To get the right diaphragms for your 2445j,call Richards at 1-800-787-5758 tell him I sent you. Part # is jbl2445j-16@$62.00 ea.

Steve
Stage one Productions

[Lee in Montreal]

Ty; I used the 2445j drivers with 2380a horns and they are great. It is better if you used the 16 ohm than the 8 ohm. 16ohm can handles more power and less burnout. To get the right diaphragms for your 2445j,call Richards at 1-800-787-5758 tell him I sent you. Part # is jbl2445j-16@$62.00 ea.

Steve
Stage one Productions

$62.00 for a JBL diaphragm?

BTW Shouldn't a 16 ohms driver require more amp power than 8 ohms for the same output.

[grumpy]

More voltage, yes

[Fort Knox]

Ty; It is better if you used the 16 ohm than the 8 ohm. 16ohm can handles more power and less burnout. To get the right diaphragms for your 2445j,call Richards at 1-800-787-5758 tell him I sent you. Part # is jbl2445j-16@$62.00 ea.

Steve
Stage one Productions

Be careful changing ohm values (unless your running sep. amp)

[louped garouv]

$62.00 for a JBL diaphragm?

maybe an aftermarket unit?
like here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Diaphragm-JB...item519c1de6bf

I can't see that being a genuine part,
at that price I'd think the retailer would be taking a bath on every sale;
and folks would be lining up to get them....

[Lee in Montreal]

I can't see that being a genuine part...

Me neither. But when a "pro" like StageOnePro mentionned the "right" part, I guess I expected a real JBL diaphragm.

"To get the right diaphragms for your 2445j,call Richards at 1-800-787-5758 tell him I sent you. Part # is jbl2445j-16@$62.00 ea."

I guess, I will call Richard and let him know that his buddy sent me for an original JBL diaphragm for $62.00...

BTW "1-800 787-5758" is Sound Speaker Repair on ePrey.

[1audiohack]

The listing says it is "just like" an original JBL. Even at a glance the brass looking screws say non JBL.

[edgewound]

Ty; I used the 2445j drivers with 2380a horns and they are great. It is better if you used the 16 ohm than the 8 ohm. 16ohm can handles more power and less burnout. To get the right diaphragms for your 2445j,call Richards at 1-800-787-5758 tell him I sent you. Part # is jbl2445j-16@$62.00 ea.

Steve
Stage one Productions

The "right" part for a JBL 2445J is JBL part number D16R2445 and it's not $62.00.

The "best" part for a JBL 2445J is JBL part number D16R2451SL...it's basically an Aquaplas coated D16R2445.

[Lee in Montreal]

The "right" part for a JBL 2445J is JBL part number D16R2445 and it's not $62.00.

The "best" part for a JBL 2445J is JBL part number D16R2451SL...it's basically an Aquaplas coated D16R2445.

And it's only $185.00

[pos]

The "right" part for a JBL 2445J is JBL part number D16R2445 and it's not $62.00.

The "best" part for a JBL 2445J is JBL part number D16R2451SL...it's basically an Aquaplas coated D16R2445.

The "better" part would be a truextent BE4016

[Lee in Montreal]

The "better" part would be a truextent BE4016

Sure. And twice the price?