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Thread: Popping HF sound!

  1. #46
    JBL 4645
    Oracle V1.3 Speaker Cable

    Don't they mean £20.00 pounds! Looks like someone as added one to many figures to this device. I bet when you open it up its not all that impressive.

    $20 grand are they $%)kibng kidding!

  2. #47
    Senior Member herki the cat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Quote Originally Posted by JBL 4645 View Post
    That’s a fascinating story from / Electro-Voice to Klipsch to JBL. I take it he had something to do with the 2360-A compression driver/horn system.
    Quote Originally Posted by JBL 4645 View Post

    I first saw this picture 21 years ago in Boxoffice magazine. I guess that picture really put the hook me, to go to London and listen to real top dog JBL professional sound system at the Empire.

    Now listen up! I'm only going to say this once!
    Well, :dont-know = I donno, Steve Schell is not one to mince his words, & he speaks very highly of the JBL 2360-A horn. I have not been to any new Multiplex Theaters since Star Wars. I went back stage and saw they still had a three channel Altec Speaker System with Altec 210-A low frequency horns & a total of QTY (12) Altec 515-B drivers, manificient sound. The surround speakers on the walls were OK.

  3. #48
    JBL 4645
    Well things didnít start to change till around early 1980ís with newer JBL components. The 4675-A has been around since 82. Wow blimey I guess that is still one of JBL best cinema loudspeaker products, even to this day.

    Altec theyíve also introduced new cinema PA loudspeakers around the early 80ís?

  4. #49
    JBL 4645

    While “the popping“ has been isolated from the refrigerator it hasn’t been isolated from the mains in the living room enough so that if I was to switch off one of the other amps it causes a small popping sound on the same left front channel.

    Oh, well can’t have it both ways. Since I power down the amps first rather than processors first which would cause a few issues. I’m not particularly bothered as long as it doesn’t sound from, the refrigerator.

    I could look it over again and see what part of the mains is sending the spike popping to the Marnatz 1050 amp. It can’t be passing though the DCX2496 otherwise I’d see the one of the LED lighting up.

    The issue lies with Marantz 1050 that powers the left and right HF. I could switch the HF left and right over to the other Marantz 1050 and re-plug/wire the centre channel HF to the other Marantz 1050 and use the right input/output. sigh undoing the whole thing. sigh

  5. #50
    JBL 4645
    It’s returned! Hmm, elusive, but I feel the issue down to the (Marantz 1050) I guess I’d have to save up for some more Alesis RA300 or maybe an RA150 doesn’t support the XLR inputs.

    I get the feeling it’s down to a rather simple filter placed inside the RA300 that prevents or suppresses the noise with some type of anti-noise filter?? Where it’s possible the Marantz 1050 doesn’t have one?

    I switched off the HF over the LCR and kept the LF active and switched off one of crossover filters (not that it would make difference) I switched the kitchen florescent light ON/OFF no crackling sound head.

    And yes the kitchen (florescent light) sounds on the HF or the Marantz 1050.

    What can you say? Gremlins!

    It’s not worrying me, one single bit anymore. I think I know what to do now. Save up and get a few more of the (original plan) matching new amplifiers long overdue!

    Amp1, Alesis RA300 LF left and right front
    Amp2, Alesis RA300 LF centre / full range surround back
    Amp3, Alesis RA300 bridge mode JBL sub LFE.1

    Amp, 4 Marantz 1050 HF left and right front
    Amp, 5 Marantz 1050 HF centre / (not in use)
    Amp, 6 Marantz 1030 full range left and right surrounds
    Amp, 7 Processor/Dolby stereo decoder for (surround-EX), Pioneer VSP-200 overheard matrix surround

    So I need to replace three Marantz amps (I am not selling so don’t ask) I’ll use them for something else maybe the bedroom?

    Yes, replace the amps with newer Alesis RA300 and one RA500 for the JBL sub.

    Three amps should be okay to start with, and few more later on for the extra (inner left and inner right fronts).

    I’d have to re-plug the decoder for the surround-EX and use the Yamaha DRS-70Pro, if I want to use a Alesis RA300 on the, Overheard Matrix Surrounds.

    So that’s, 4 amps I could cheat and use 3 amps because the centre back is monaural same as the overhead surround and would only need a stereo amp to power the loudspeakers, thou, (I’m thinking of way to piggyback the normal stereo surrounds or monaural discrete to matrix mono) onto the back half surrounds for, regular surround. A stereo amp for the back surrounds will be preferable. Same with the matrix overhead surround, got think ahead!

    You might say, was it all in vain? No, because I got an extra power mains socket in the kitchen now.

    I remember in days on the CB radio there was an anti-noise filter that was used to suppress of reduce engine spark noise that often make a crackling sound as some cars passed by produced an electrical nose that was being picked-up on my Snake, Cobra 148 GTL-DX

    (ANL) Anti Noise Limiter, I think was the name for it? I just kept it switched ON all times.

    Maybe I could buy a Snake, and patch to the Marantz 1050. I’d then have an extra pair of boots on Snake, >65watts LOL Somehow I don’t think that would work.

    Just heard a small popping from the refrigerator.

    What I can't figure is why only the 1050 and not the 1030 amps? It only sounds on the 1050 and wasn't the 1050 not produced later in the Marantz range?

  6. #51
    JBL 4645
    Additional information

    Now this is kinder of eluded me! Even the CRT Panasonic when I switch it ON only produces a mild popping (kinder like crackle effect very soft in level but audible due to being a high frequency sound, hmm? What frequency I wonder? I guess its no higher than 8Hz so its narrow or a bit lower down away from peaking at 8KHz, I guess.

    Its not a worrying popping loudness. Now oddly so, it doesn’t spark across the Marantz 1050 that is powering the centre channel HF. The fridge sparks and kitchen florescent light does however spark across the centre HF as well as the left and right HF (or on the other Marantz 1050 amp)

  7. #52
    JBL 4645
    Well Iíve had a look but that is as far as Iím going. Iím not going to upset the balance of the amp by making any adjustments unless Iím absolutely certain.

    Here are a few pictures I took a short while ago of the inside of the lower amp in the rack.
    Attached Images Attached Images    

  8. #53
    JBL 4645

    Snap crackle and pop

    Update on snap crackle and pop.

    The interference is still here and I tested the difference of Marantz 1050 muted at amp! Turned the crossover level right up on the DCX2496 for left front for LF so, it now gets highs. Went to kitchens switched ON the fluorescent light, listened out for the crackling sound, nope not a peep! So the fault solely lies in the Marantz 1050 circuitry, which will be on the next on the list for replacement for another Alesis RA300.

    Essentially the noise is still there, yet the Alesis RA300 is filtering it. Fact is it is still there! Might as well test with cheap amps first to see if any electrical noises are present, and if that’s the case the whole electrical system needs to be first sorted out, to virtually eliminating any of the electrical Gremlins.

    Then after it’s sorted you know for sure its going to be free from any of the household electrical appliance noises.

    And as to silly overpriced devices a few posts up at £20grand now way! After you stuck so many of those in the home, you might as well take out a second mortgage on the home.

  9. #54
    JBL 4645
    Listening to some Ennio Morricone, music this morning stating with “Chi mai” and then the opening tittles to “The Untouchables” and the popping sound from the fridge came in after a few seconds! The SPL db meter picked up fairly well!

    Playing this back in mono from the stereo mix, I only used the left/right fronts and the music was a bit bright on the top end then again it was around -3db on the fader.

    The lows are captured nicely without boomy distortion! The SPL db meter can handle it fairy well depending SPL db range setting and the level of the sound in the room. The SPL db was set at 80dbc.

    I like the score for this, so I set the sub bass extension mode to ON for the JBL which gave a so, so okay sub bass the music mix did have some compression on the percussion instruments as they slammed banged and away.

  10. #55
    Senior Member lgvenable's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Broken Arrow OK

    I like to call this Thread:"the thread that won't go away.."

    But I felt I'd post my solution to the issue and the pictures . This picture was before the sheetrock was reinstalled (which I just found in an archive file)

    I previously posted;

    I isolated all my equipment by adding an isolated 15 kVA transfomer. That'll give you 5 to 6 20A circuits. it requires a 60A 240V amp breaker off the mains, feeding a primary coil (in us=120/240V). The 2nd transformer has its own isolated ground (to an 8' grounding rod through my garage floor) with its own 100A 120V breaker and 5 20A secondary circuits each at 120V.

    Once plugged in to the 2nd transformer, the audio equipment is COMPLETELY isolated from every mother loving fan ,computer, clock, or electrical device on the main breaker box.

    Results>>>>bingo all hums eliminated, and I have 15 amps, so it works. It also helps to use balanced audio connections only. But the you knew that.

    I worked on these problems for two years, this solved all issues associated with hum and electrical interference, and is sure fire >> at a cost of 400US.

    See the attached picture. This completely eliminated any ground loop hum, although running the #4 wire through the conduits was tough. The 15kVA transformer was goof to 125 amps (6 x 20A) ; but as stated I'm only using 5 x 20A. You'll notice this picture was taken when 4 of the 5 20A circuits still needed to be wired in, as the yellow 12G romex going up the right side of the larger(mains) breaker box is the 5 isolated 20A circuits in the room above. You'll also notice the bottom plate hadn't been placed on the transformer either when this picture was taken.

    My only comment is I might have saved a few $ by doing it myself; when when the wife & I head for retirement in Oklahoma in 9 years; I'll hire this done next time, as it occupied the better part of two weekends when I did it.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Integra DHC80.1,3x 4636LF, 2360-2446J 2404H,12 x 8340 Surrounds, 2 x4645B, BGW 250D's,250E's,& 750B's 16 amps...7600 watts

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