Help With Potential DIY Project

[boputnam]

I used nickbegone (aka another $100 sheet of veneer) on it and it disappeared. :dont-know Cool eh?

[pos]

whao, they look really nice!
I am sure you will end up with one of the nicest 4345 clone around!
2245, 2123, 2445, H94, 2405, right?

[4313B]

2245, 2123, 2445, H94, 2405, right?

Yes, along with the now SOP Timbers Tweaks.

Greg whipped up an active filter schematic that he suggested I build and try out in place of a DX-1 so I'll probably order all those parts in the next few months. Hopefully I can get that built before the end of the year. My current thought is to just empty out a 5234A or 5235 and build the new filter in that chassis.

[pos]

as soon as I get my 2245 from Rich I will try something similar, except with 2435-SL on 2397 and 076.

Concerning your active network, is it just for the 2245/2123 crossover or also for the other ways?

[dkalsi]

Guys,
I am still trying to figure out how one is to construct the lip. In the initial construction, is it best to:
1) Recess the baffle,
2) Let the sides+top+bottom come to the front
3) Route to make the desired angle, and
4) Then veneer over the angle using the same sheet used to veneer the adjacent side?

Or is it best to flush mount the baffle and find solid walnut molding to match the veener? (see below)

[Mr. Widget]

I'd make the molding as drawn up by saeman and miter and glue it to the front of your boxes. Then, veneer over the boxes and trim at the beveled edge of the molding. See drawing below... the veneer is shown over scale in red.

If you are using pre-veneered plywood, particle board, or MDF then do it as suggested by Rick... butt the molding onto the front edge of the 1" P.B Plus Veneer. Doing it this way, your fit up has to be a bit better as sanding the edge of the molding where it is supposed to be flush with the veneered side will be rather tricky.

Widget
.

[dkalsi]

Thanks Widget,
I think I will go forward with Saeman's method (that appears to be little easiers).

Additionally, for those who have constructed the 4345, has anyone felt that the speaker needs more bracing than what is included in the original design? I have only built subwoofers in the past and am use to heavily bracing the enclosure.

Thanks,
D

[4313B]

Additionally, for those who have constructed the 4345, has anyone felt that the speaker needs more bracing than what is included in the original design?

I always use more bracing than stock. It works out well.

[dkalsi]

All,
Could someone suggest best place to order veneer (I had oakwoodveneer.com in mind). Additionally, would people agree that using paperbacked veneer + HeatLock Iron-on veneer glue be the easiest method to apply the veneer.

I know I am getting ahead of myself but I want to make sure I have all necessities on hand once I start going.

Thanks,
Dhar

[bigyank]

Here is a decent FAQ to visit:

http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneeri...-veneering.htm

Good luck and post pics!

Yank

[Mr. Widget]

I have bought veneer from all over for more than 30 years... Oakwood has by far the highest quality/price ratio out there and their selection is excellent. Paper backed or veneer backed is by far the easiest to use. I will use a vacuum bag, veneer press, boards and clamps, or contact cement depending on the application. I've never used the iron on sheeting or the PVA iron on method... people seem to like the PVA method, but I hate to try something new when dealing with hundreds of dollars worth of stock.


Widget

[4313B]

I've never used the iron on sheeting or the PVA iron on method... people seem to like the PVA method, but I hate to try something new when dealing with hundreds of dollars worth of stock.

Surely you have scraps left laying around that you can experiment with...

[Mr. Widget]

Surely you have scraps left laying around that you can experiment with...

In the shop, in the attic, under tables being used as shims...

Good point, I'll add it to the to do list.


Widget

[DavidF]

My views (and others ) on MDF are documented in the posts here. Yes it is good acoustically and yes it is easy to machine but the dust is just horrid and bad for you also. Baltic ply is a joy to work with and is as near to MDF in general but without the cons.
You will thank me for this advice , been there done that !

Agreed to all except possibly good acoustically. Can be mushy so it needs to be braced all to hell. Dust, oh yeah. My wife hates it as the only place I have to work in is the garage. More, it is terrible on bits and tools. Mostly for me it is easier to work with towards a certain finish effect. A good base for veneer.

Difficult to paint and very difficult to get a good glossy finish. The idea of 4313B with the speckled finish sounds like a very good idea.

Note the bends and great clean corners (thanks to Bondo). This is why I used MDF on this project.

[dkalsi]

All,

Believe it or not - this thread is not yet dead. I have made some progress. I am done cutting 80% of material needed for this construction. Baffles are complete and the dog house is mounted.

Additoinally - got a call from my local JBL dealer that my pair of 2245H and 2122H (all new cones) are ready for pick up.

I should be receiving the 2397 horns today.


I have a quick question - I am trying to collect parts for the crossover and per the schematics posted by Giskard, one of the inductors is: 18 gauge 0.6 Mh and 0.53Ohm
I can't seem to located that inductor anywhere - could someone please suggest where I should be looking.

And lastly - I still can't decide whether to go with L-pads or not. I have read a few posts here but wanted to get more opinions in context of the l-pads being used with the 2441s.

Thanks,
D