Vintage xover replacements?

[midlife]

I got the L88s cheap and they are super clean, except for toasted xovers. I would like to do a take off on the 88plus to 3ways, and already had the 033s. Your link to the L150s, I assume, is a recommendation of the 150 xovers. I have been watching ebay and those xovers don't pop up alot. I do see some L36 electronics that seem to be rather close to what I believe I would need. Have any other recommendations? And who would build what I need? And yes I did research the econowave, wish I was but I'm not quite ready for that. thanks.

[Wagner]

10 watts or 12? 12 is slightly better, but essentially the same thing... any audio grade non-inductive resistor will work. These Mills resistors are top drawer. There is no polarity issue with any audio grade cap... these are all sufficient. Use a Dayton cap, they are good enough and inexpensive. Inductors have no polarity. Use any air core inductor... larger gauge wire has lower resistance. Your system will have the correct polarity if you follow the schematic.

As for a 15watt L-pad? Don't cheap out here... use at least a 50 watter... not that the power requirement is needed.


Widget

The 50 watters from Parts Express are too large if he wants stock hole spacing. The one that resembles an old Aetna-Pollack is nearly 2"s in diameter and the square one that reminds you of Alps is too large as well, IF, like I say, he wants factory spacing.
Good luck,
Thomas

[Wagner]

I got the L88s cheap and they are super clean, except for toasted xovers. I would like to do a take off on the 88plus to 3ways, and already had the 033s. Your link to the L150s, I assume, is a recommendation of the 150 xovers. I have been watching ebay and those xovers don't pop up alot. I do see some L36 electronics that seem to be rather close to what I believe I would need. Have any other recommendations? And who would build what I need? And yes I did research the econowave, wish I was but I'm not quite ready for that. thanks.

I have to know; how did someone "melt" and "toast" the networks in (2) boxes but the drivers all escaped untouched?

Just curious,
Thomas

[Wagner]

?
Thomas

[Wagner]

Sorry, this is my first attempt at this; so the "nope" in your reply refers to the first or last of my questions. More to the point, I am converting L88s to three ways. HF-033, MID-Le5, LF-123A. The original xovers have seen better days, and they were 2 ways. I cannot build my own xovers, not enough know how, so Daytons pre-assembled 3 ways are a poor choice? I think the hz cross is 750 and 5,500. Best options for a novice?? thanks.

If you can hook the speaker wires up correctly from your amp to your speakers (in phase) and have the mechanical ability to tie your shoes, you can construct and L100 network + an inductor.
Just go where the schematic takes you, as others have suggested.

Good luck,
Thomas

[BMWCCA]

"vinyl-covered 4412As"?

Have you seen them any other way?


LX22, L20T, L1, L26, L80T, L96, L5, L112, 4412A, L7, L150A, 030, 4345-BA

[midlife]

I have to know; how did someone "melt" and "toast" the networks in (2) boxes but the drivers all escaped untouched?

Just curious,
Thomas

I got the 88s and they are clean as a whistle, hooked them up and they sound like they are wrapped in a blanket. And they also need way more volume than my other speakers. So I remove the woofers to discover the xovers which are contained in a cardboard wax filled tube to have most of the wax melted out of them and puddled on the cabinet floor. I am making some assumptions here (yes I've heard about assumptions) and that is the xovers have some problems. So if I am going to take on my first speaker project why not add a Le5s, change the HFs to 033s and put in a 3way xover? And of course I didn't ohm the 123s but I will. Looking for a simple xover solution, that works, and doesn't give a novice too much grief...

[midlife]

I got the 88s and they are clean as a whistle, hooked them up and they sound like they are wrapped in a blanket. And they also need way more volume than my other speakers. So I remove the woofers to discover the xovers which are contained in a cardboard wax filled tube to have most of the wax melted out of them and puddled on the cabinet floor. I am making some assumptions here (yes I've heard about assumptions) and that is the xovers have some problems. So if I am going to take on my first speaker project why not add a Le5s, change the HFs to 033s and put in a 3way xover? And of course I didn't ohm the 123s but I will. Looking for a simple xover solution, that works, and doesn't give a novice too much grief...

Yep, thats my story and I'm stickin' to it....Looking for an effective xover, that works and doesn't give a novice too much grief. thanks.

[Zilch]

I don't get this.

You're converting them to pseudo-L100s.

There's four caps and two L-pads required.

[Just do it.... ]

[midlife]

I don't get this.

You're converting them to pseudo-L100s.

There's four caps and two L-pads required.

[Just do it.... ]

I know how to listen to speakers not very experienced in their repair...but enough said, I'll build the xovers myself.

[Zilch]

I don't know what to say. You've done a change-up on us here, going from rebuilding existing L-88 crossovers to converting them to L-100s with "wrong" (but maybe better, actually,) tweeters. If they're not L-88 Plus, I have to question whether the components are even going to fit in there.

Post a pic of your front baffles. Do they look like mine?



Also, what is the DC resistance of each of your woofers?

What's a "Plus" look like after conversion?

[midlife]

I don't know what to say. You've done a change-up on us here, going from rebuilding existing L-88 crossovers to converting them to L-100s with "wrong" (but maybe better, actually,) tweeters. If they're not L-88 Plus, I have to question whether the components are even going to fit in there.

Post a pic of your front baffles. Do they look like mine?



Also, what is the DC resistance of each of your woofers?

What's a "Plus" look like after conversion?

The baffles I have are what you have pictured. I intend to remove the existing port and tweeter partial baffle and install one that fits across the entire available space (left to right), and then cut the neccessary holes for HF and Mid speakers, in a mirror image configuration. Then install a rear firing bass tube on the back wall. All of this I can handle, it was the crossover that I knew I would need help with. DCR values; 123a-6.3, 033-4.8, the Le5s I do not have yet. This is something I want to do, not something that has to be done.

[Mr. Widget]

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[midlife]

.

Yes, exactly like that, just 033 tweets and I'm guessing this box now uses a rear bass port.

[Mr. Widget]

.