2245H Sub-Woofer Project

[Val]

Great! I'm glad my comments were useful.

I never really noticed the panels vibrating too much because the boxes were flush mounted in a wall, underneath an adjacent staircase, and only the front baffles showed when I removed a grill. I made my front baffles 1.5" thick, with the 2245's recessed for a nice look. Also, I braced the heck out of them.

I moved into a new house not too long ago and am finishing off the basement for a new listening room. I'm going to flush mount the boxes into the wall again so only the front baffles show.

I suspect the reason I didn't have to use any boost is because they were located clost to a corner. I'm not sure if that's the reason, but they seriously put out some very mean deep bass. I haven't heard a ton of commercial subs, but of the ones I've heard, NONE of them came close to the 12 FT 2245's.

I'll be happy to take some pictures in a day or two with a driver removed to show you the bracing. Although the cuts in the MDF are nice and straight, I never veneered the outside since they wouldn't be seen. I only painted the fronts black so they'd not be seen from behind a grill. This time, I'm going to go ahead and paint the entire cabinets black because they'll be in a walk-in closet and will be able to be seen when you go in it.

When I get the pictures up, take a look at my ports; they're square but they have the same area as the ports in the 1983 article. This is the second pair of boxes I made for these drivers. The first pair used round ports and I heard no difference between the two. I believe Greg Timbers mentions in the article that the shape makes little difference, but the area and the length must be the same.

Thanks for your comments. Please don't go to any trouble to take the pictures, I thought you might have some on hand.

[opimax]

naw go ahead and post pictures . I am feeling wimpy with just 1 b460 (and no bass traps...yet). Are you in a different house than the 1 I came to?

Seriously pictures are cool

Mark

[svollmer]

No problem. First, here's a drawing of a shelf brace from Vance Dickenson's "Loudspeaker Design Cookbook". I hope there's not copyright infringements!

[svollmer]

Now, here's one of the subs with the woofer removed.

[svollmer]

Another picture. I used some MDF bracing and some good quality plywood bracing. The plywood you see on the right forms the top of the port. There is about 10" of free space behind the end of the port.

[svollmer]

One more showing the front. The square port is to the right of the driver opening, but it's very hard to see because it's all black and because I'm a lousy photographer. The junk on top of the cabinet is tools and stuff I'm using to finish the basement off.

[svollmer]

naw go ahead and post pictures . I am feeling wimpy with just 1 b460 (and no bass traps...yet). Are you in a different house than the 1 I came to?

Seriously pictures are cool

Mark

Yep, I'm in the same house you saw a few years ago and I'M JUST getting around to finishing the basement off.

Here's a picture of one bass trap in the room. What you're looking at is a 24" x 24" column, floor to ceiling, of rigid fiberglass with two 24" x 4" thick panels on either side of it; floor to ceiling. There will be columns in the four corners.

[svollmer]

And here's one of the other side. The big hole in the framing and the closet behind it is where there will be 3 or 4 of the B460 clones stacked and covered with a grill. (Sorry, if I've gone off topic.....)

[mech986]

Pic adjusted to show port a little better. Nice work!

[Loren42]

No problem. First, here's a drawing of a shelf brace from Vance Dickenson's "Loudspeaker Design Cookbook". I hope there's not copyright infringements!

Fair Use law and you cited the source, so you should be okay.

[Val]

One more showing the front. The square port is to the right of the driver opening, but it's very hard to see because it's all black and because I'm a lousy photographer. The junk on top of the cabinet is tools and stuff I'm using to finish the basement off.

Thanks for the pics. Very helpful to see the internal bracing.

[Val]

Bought the 1" MDF at Southern Lumber in San Jose. They have a great mill shop. $17 to cut every piece I need for this project. Worth every penny.

[Val]

Gluing up the right side. No fasteners. Just Tightbond II and good clamps (thanks to Matt for the loan of the clamps!!!).

[Val]

This is the first time I have used these red corner clamps. They are awesome as they force a 90 degree angle. I put these on first with just enough pressure to hold position. Then I throw on the bar clamps and tighten all up. As usual, I leave an 1/8" overhang that I will trim off later with a router and cut-off bit.

[Loren42]

More!

Now wait when he gets the cabinet done and then finds out, like some boat and aircraft builders, that he can't get it out of the basement.