The recommended enclosures are for in-car use (room gain starting high in frequency), but for home use a 9 cu ft enclosure tuned to 20Hz gives great results. In such a box it is more efficient than a 2245H in the VLF (and also takes a *lot* more power and excursion abuse without increased distortion or power compression). But of course above ~40Hz the 2245H has the edge.
Yeah, I can't remember what the group delay is for a box that large. Some people don't care about such things. Some people say you can't hear it and yet some people still insist on sealed box systems because they "sound better" due to minimal group delay and maximum transient response. Who knows... I guess I don't really care. I already have what I like.
That Qtc of 0.609, if it is real, shouldn't be too bad.
Obviously some of these drivers had manufacturing issues. It's too bad really. The good ones are quite impressive. So much so that JBL and Revel continue to use the next generation versions. Arguably something like the W15GTi should be considered a "last resort" solution.
Re: W15GTI/2256G ... I expected to get some feedback regarding that suggestion
background:
I'm using two 2242/4645 cabs in the "HT" area, and that's unlikely to change soon.
I built up a pair of SUB1500 ported cabs and ran them in the 2-ch music-only area.
Both can be quite compelling, and I've yet to blow up a driver. If I were to reuse
the SUB1500's in another configuration or for HT, I think I'd try sealed, ~2-3ft3.
The 2256G nearly fell into my lap (price-wise, less than the parts-express SUB1500
blowout, and -much- less than a recone of either) and it seemed a likely candidate
to make an entertaining bass-shaker type sub, and fairly destruction proof.
Given Maxwedge's experiences and usage, it seemed worth bringing up as an option.
Note:
Anyone considering this -should- be thinking seriously about where a used W15GTi
might have lived in it's previous life... SPL contests and concert array systems can
be pretty hard on a driver.
So..., I don't expect a W15GTi/2256G will make the be-all end-all subwoofer,
just one that is fun, inexpensive (relatively), not too huge, and a bit forgiving of abuse.
Just spotted this thread and thought I may be able to add some value.
I've got six of these and have experienced both modes of failure (spider - basket and spider - cone). I'm sure the spider - basket was a manufacturing problem as has been well documented here. It came away so cleanly the glue had obviously not adhered properly.
I'm also sure that the spider - cone failure was caused by abuse / over exertion. I accidentally played an 800w 10Hz track off a CD through it and heard the coil former hit the backplate before it failed. My boxes were ~2.8cu foot but still early in the build and they had leaks. If you are running a well sealed box you should be able to push the cone in by hand and then see it return - SLOWLY - to the rest position. The extra back pressure will help prevent over excursion. If you are running ported you must filter below the tuning frequency.
I sealed up all the internal joins with a bead of silicone, also did the backplates, handles and connectors. The seal is much better now.
I fixed both the problems I had with mine using epoxy - a big thick bead of it at the cone join and a thin layer at the spider. No problems since then and they have been used hard with 800w from Crown K2s.
Just want to say thanks to Edgewound of Upland Loudspeaker Service for rescuing my SUB1500 that I blew the spider off of the basket, incredible work.
And I'm glad I didn't try to fix this one myself!
So, I'm now working with 2 SUB1500's and life is good again.
Still using the same 2-15 box but separated the chambers and reduced the volume to about 1.5 cf each.
And, it looks like kits are not available anymore.
I have some unused sub1500, is there anything I should do to prevent the from failing before I start useing them?
Is aprox 3ft sealed the preferd box or are there any better alternatives?
It's been a while since I visited this thread. NO, there is really nothing for you to do. An inspection of the spider seal might be a good idea. Take note of the color of the glue. It had been reported here that failure could sometime be predicted by what glue was used and identified by the color. I can't remember the details regarding color but you should be able to find it earlier in this thread .
Three cubic feet sealed will work great. Depending on the room you may not need any EQ. This Driver is unusually versatile and can be used with great success sealed or ported. It is also robust and can except substantial EQ without protest. It is is driver worthy of a great cabinet and your best efforts. You won't be disappointed.
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