Sub1500 problem

[rdgrimes]

Yeah but the Sub1500 is a consumer department product (spec dept) as I understand so that is why I called them.

Makes no difference, they have access to all the same parts.

[1audiohack]

Makes no difference, they have access to all the same parts.

That's not always the case.

[Earl K]

5 - 7 yr old info ;

Thanks for the Info. I remembered the Kit being in the long SUB1500 thread but could not find it.

OC just quoted me a price of $461.00 to recone the thing with the C4RSUB1500 recone kit.

However, after I better explained the situation, they said they could probably re-glue the existing spider to the frame. I think I will load it into the car and drive over to LA and talk to them. I have a couple of LE15As that need reconing and Magnet recharging anyway.

I found out today that the recone kit, part number C4RSUB1500, is $223.97 (dealer cost). The JBL service place says "that's typical of JBL Consumer - they charge 3 times as much as JBL Pro". The JBL service technician said he charges $40 labor for a recone, and will not do the job using the C4RSUB1500 for fear of screwing up and being responsible for replacing the recone kit.

Standby for "Sticker Shock" .

Personally, I wouldn't give up quite yet ,,, I'd see if someone in your area ( talented in reconing ) can rebuild those woofers from their existing parts // assuming you haven't yet totaled the voice-coils.

OTOH; might be time to file under ; Shoulda, Woulda, Coulda !

<> EarlK

[maxwedge]

Sticker shock no kidding, especially that those are 2004 prices!
Shoulda, Woulda, Coulda is right, I had my chance back in 2005.

Personally, I wouldn't give up quite yet ,,, I'd see if someone in your area ( talented in reconing ) can rebuild those woofers from their existing parts // assuming you haven't yet totaled the voice-coils.

That is what Daniel at Audivex suggested. I know that the coil on the one I just messed with is ok but the other one is open. He said that most likely that the cone scraped the coil on the open one and said that he'd have to get the baskets down to bare metal to see if they could be repaired with out reconing.

I've been looking for reasonably priced replacements and there's not much out there.
The TC Sounds LMS-R 15 looks interesting at $433. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=293-662
I hate having broken parts laying around though.

Scott

[Earl K]

That is what Daniel at Audivex suggested. I know that the coil on the one I just messed with is ok but the other one is open.,,,,,,,,snip,,,,,,

Maybe Daniel can source an aftermarket voice-coil ( to graft onto your cone & existing spider ) .

The above specs will give any reconer an idea of what to look for & where to match .

It's a long shot( to find a single 4" coil this long , at 1.78" ), still,, it's worth a mention .

<> EarlK

[maxwedge]

Thats the plan. I'm going to take them over Audivex next Friday to see if they can be rescued and in the mean time I'm going to make some calls to see what a full recone will set me back.

Thanks Earl

[maxwedge]

The good news, I snagged two unused Sub1500's for a reasonable price on ebay. $305 for the 1st and $381 for the 2nd plus shipping and their clearly unused in the original boxes with partsexpress shipping labels to the original buyer (same as seller).

The 1st one showed up Friday (2nd comes Tuesday) and I swapped it with my semi function speaker. It's in a 5cf sealed box powered by one channel of my QSC RMX2400 that's about 750 watts at full output per channel.

It's been fine listening to music and movies on DTV. Today I recalibrated my system using the Audyssey setup on my Marantz AV7005 and it sets the sub at -9db which is typical for my 7.1 system. My lowest output speakers in the rear are set close to 0db.

So I decided to test the sub afterwards with the Lightcycle scene in Tron Legacy (Bluray) again.

The bad news. Wthin 5 seconds into this movie I heard the dreaded crackle and I shut the amp off. Now Audyssey sets the system up at 0db output and I generally watch Bluray movies at about -10. I pulled the speaker out and found that the spider has completely blown off of the basket. Bummer...........................

I was going to try another brand but then....

[maxwedge]

My 2nd new sub1500 came into today and I was just going to put it on the shelf for awhile while I figure this problem out but then what the hell I thought!

F**k it, if it blows it blows! Put it in my sealed 2x15 cab with the sub1500 I fixed and wired them for 8 ohms. Babying it with only one side of my RMX2450 for now at ~500 watts.
Not going to push them until I get the other two fixed.

[Mr. Widget]

Babying it with only one side of my RMX2450 for now at ~500 watts.
Not going to push them until I get the other two fixed.

If you look at post 110 above these things are meant to fail at a bit above 500 watts. Is it possible that you are simply blowing them up because you need more than they can put out at ~500 watts?


Widget

[maxwedge]

If you look at post 110 above these things are meant to fail at a bit above 500 watts. Is it possible that you are simply blowing them up because you need more than they can put out at ~500 watts?


Widget

35vrms is about 500 watts? The LE-1 amp used with the Revel sub output 700 watts minimum in to a single sub so I shouldn't be out of line.

Actually I misstated the output of my amp, it's 450 per ch into 8 ohms and 650 per ch watts into 4 ohms, FTC sweep 20hz-20k hz. So right now I safely doing ~450 watts for 2 sub1500's. The one I blew on Friday was connected as 650 watts but there was no way it was seeing that because my Marantz set the sub down to -9db in relation to all the other speakers. I don't know, it's the damn LFE in movies that is doing it!

[4313B]

You might want to measure the Qtc of the driver in the sealed box and make sure you have enough restoring force. If there isn't any the driver will blow up.

If the box is too big for a sealed solution you might want to port it and then apply a high pass filter at the box tuning frequency. That will increase VLF sensitivity considerably and you can back off the power a bit.

These drivers should barely move before they start busting stuff up in your house. If you're getting anywhere near xMech then you might have a serious node problem in your room. Load the boxes up in some corners and see if that makes the problem go away.

I use a 200 WPC Citation 22 that is capable of dumping 120 amps of current when needed and there isn't any problem driving these monsters to unbearable levels. My room is fairly small though.

[Mr. Widget]

35vrms is about 500 watts? The LE-1 amp used with the Revel sub output 700 watts minimum in to a single sub so I shouldn't be out of line.

35vrms is ~300 watts @ 4 ohms... your Revel LE-1 amp comparison doesn't take into account any infrasonic filtering Revel may have used in that design.

I second the concern about the Qtc of the 5 cu ft sealed box... I have never used anything larger than about 3 cu ft, except when using them in a ported configuration... you do get almost 10dB greater output when going ported with a 5 cu ft box tuned to 20Hz, but then you MUST filter below 20Hz.


Widget

[maxwedge]

You might want to measure the Qtc of the driver in the sealed box and make sure you have enough restoring force. If there isn't any the driver will blow up.

If the box is too big for a sealed solution you might want to port it and then apply a high pass filter at the box tuning frequency. That will increase VLF sensitivity considerably and you can back off the power a bit.

These drivers should barely move before they start busting stuff up in your house. If you're getting anywhere near xMech then you might have a serious node problem in your room. Load the boxes up in some corners and see if that makes the problem go away.

I use a 200 WPC Citation 22 that is capable of dumping 120 amps of current when needed and there isn't any problem driving these monsters to unbearable levels. My room is fairly small though.

The box is right about 5cf net with 2 drivers in it and it was clearly too large when I put that one driver in it and sealed the other hole on Friday. I need to get around to actually measuring that but BBP6 puts my qtc at .609 with 2 15's. I guess I want to strive for .707 as I've been reading and my box is still to large for 2 15's. I've been wanting to build new single speaker subs anyway.

So it looks like this last failure was my fault, again.

[grumpy]

IIRC, the Revel sub using the sub1500 was less than
2ft3. EQ/contouring, room gain, placement and huge
dedicated amp did the rest.

[pos]

Maybe you should look for W15GTI / 2256G.
These cannot be broken with excessive excursion (braking coil), and can accept huge amounts of power (800W continuous). ULF is only about moving air without too much distortion, and these drivers are very capable.