What a shame.
How hard were you driving them?
I pulled out my other Sub1500 and it's spider is separating from the cone as well.
BUT, the spider has not ripped. The glue bead has detached from the surface of the spider and I can clearly see that the spider is not damaged at all.
Bummer, my bottle of 422 Loctite is hard as a rock so I guess it's shelve life is well under 6 years. I'm going to order some more and try and fix this one Sub1500.
He ripped the coils off of the cones! That means they were trying to exceed xmax... as you must know these things are thunderously loud at high power levels. It can be hard to tell if that god awful racket is the cone tearing or your house protesting as the drywall is bending and flexing, the floor creaking, windows and doors rattling etc.
Two of the six of mine have that opaque glue on the spider / cone / former junction and what ever it is, it does not penetrate the pourus materials at all, it sits on top like hot glue would and does not give a buttressed joint at all. You just know without some kind of rework it's going to fail and that sucks!
If we knew what the hell we were doing, we wouldn't call it research would we.
Common failure is not seeing what the frequency response is like against the LCRS or LCR where it should only tickly the bottom end where LCR hands it over to sub should be at the same frequency response with minimal power being used up.
Start running it without realizing you have sloping frequency dip starting at such and such frequency covering several bands then rising up to smooth with peak or two. But its that tone that tells the user something missing or maybe its not loud enough!?
If you looked the internal frequency against the in-room its miles apart if for some good reason it mirrors what it is on RTA or spectrum lab then with all fairness you hit the jackpot.
The sub as it is, is playing super fine its when you move away from Mr Null sigh I wish there was an anti-spray for this issue. Only way around it is more of the same sub to counterattack the issue and yes up goes the cost for that narrow band limited LFE.1 channel that seems to be the biggest pain the home cinema ass to get truly sorted!
Boast the issue on the sub is like the death sentence for the sub it will limit the headroom and place critical clipping and bottoming out before you’ve had chance to get a few years enjoyment out of it.
As for other mechanical workings of the sub that’s down to lousy cheap craftsmanship and we should go after them with soldering iron.
Easy to overdo xmax if 1) you're not running a sealed box, 2) are playing
content below system resonance (which one might tend to do showing these off),
but yeah... kind of like running low on air in a 40-series tire (difficult to tell until
it's too late).
The one thing these active subs don’t have on them is a barograph LED level display so you know when to back it down once that clipping LED lights up!
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