Page 6 of 16 FirstFirst ... 45678 ... LastLast
Results 76 to 90 of 229

Thread: Soundcraftsmen purchase help

  1. #76
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    38

    Smile

    William,

    Here are some links to the output transistors available today for the soundcraftsmen models with mosfet outputs.

    http://www.profusionplc.com/pro/gex/...teral%20mosfet

    Hitachi - Exicon replacement

    N Channel

    2SK133 - TO3 metal ECF10N16
    2SK134 - TO3 metal ECF10N16
    2SK135 - TO3 metal ECF10N16
    2SK175 - TO3 metal ECF10N20
    2SK176 - TO3 metal ECF10N20
    2SK1056 - plastic ECX10N16
    2SK1057 - plastic ECX10N16
    2SK1058 - plastic ECX10N16
    2SK2220 - plastic ECX10N20
    2SK2221 - plastic ECX10N20

    P CH

    2SJ48 - TO3 metal ECF10P16
    2SJ49 - TO3 metal ECF10P16
    2SJ50 - TO3 metal ECF10P16
    2SJ55 - TO3 metal ECF10P20
    2SJ56 - TO3 metal ECF10P20
    2SJ160 - plastic ECX10P16
    2SJ161 - plastic ECX10P16
    2SJ162 - plastic ECX10P16
    2SJ351 - plastic ECX10P20
    2SJ352 - plastic ECX10P20

    Magnatecs...

    http://www.semelab.com/magnatec/mosdata.shtml

    These seem to be new by magnatec. I haven't compared the electrical characteristics with the original hitachis yet.

    http://www.semelab.com/magnatec/alfet.shtml

    And here too...

    http://export.farnell.com/jsp/search...525460,1525560

    I read a while ago in the diyaudio site that the exicons (profusion) and the magnatecs are made by the same manufacturer.

    Renesas (previously Hitachi) does not seem to make them in the TO-3 packages (metal) anymore and only makes the in TO247 (plastic). Maybe I'm wrong.

    Link...

    http://america.renesas.com/products/...n_amp_root.jsp

    Another link...

    http://tech-diy.com/Store/LatFets.htm

    Don't go for to ebay for the mosfets unless you want to get robbed.

    I would replace all the capacitors (money permiting) on that amp. And maybe the bias trim potentiometer for something of a better quality.

    See this link...

    http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/bias_e.html

    Once it is running it will impress you with is clarity, balance and control of the whole spectrum. You won't believe an amplifier that old can sound soooooooooo good.

    I can provide a schematic. Shoot me a PM.

    BTW, blowing fuses means shorted outputs. But just to make sure which channel is out just must disconnect power from these one at a time. Do not do this with the power on and make sure the ends of the wires you disconnect are taped to avoid them touching the chassis or you! There's 75 volts on the secondaries. If you don't think you can perform this diagnosis let someone with more experience do it. But if you're going to replace them with exicons or magnatecs you may as well replace all 8 mosfets.

  2. #77
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    southwest
    Posts
    4

    bridging two soundcraftsmen amps

    hi,
    i'm out here in the southwest and i have two soundcraftsmen ma5002 amps, beatiful amps ! i'm trying to find out if i can safely bridge these two amps together using the soundcraftsmen a-1b bridgeable adapter (used for the prc 800 amps i believe) is this possible?? or does anyone know where i could get a definitive answer because i don't want to damage the amps !! i'm kind of new to this forum so i sure would appreciate your help. Thank You
    Hunterdog61

  3. #78
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    38
    Quote Originally Posted by hunterdog61 View Post
    hi,
    i'm out here in the southwest and i have two soundcraftsmen ma5002 amps, beatiful amps ! i'm trying to find out if i can safely bridge these two amps together using the soundcraftsmen a-1b bridgeable adapter (used for the prc 800 amps i believe) is this possible?? or does anyone know where i could get a definitive answer because i don't want to damage the amps !! i'm kind of new to this forum so i sure would appreciate your help. Thank You
    Hunterdog61
    Hello,

    Any amplifier which is bridged must be at least 4 ohms stable in stereo mode (your amps are). The reason for this is because once bridged the left (a) will see half the load and the right channel (b) will see the other half which means it'll put out the amount of wattage which it delivers to a pair of 4 ohms loads to a single 8 ohm instead.

    Through the years Soundcraftsmen made several models based on the MA5002's class H circuitry, same amplifier with different faceplates, gain controls, etc. Some of them had a bridge option built in and were more expensive. We bridged one and left it as a demo for a subwoofer display with a diy dual 15" cabinet and the amp was stable and would not get hot.

    So to answer your question. Yes, they can be bridged as long as the impedance of the load does not go below 8 ohms for each amplifier.

    Remember the positive output of CH.A becomes (-) and the positive output of CH.B becomes (+). Which means that once you bridge them with the adapter the black (-) ground can not be used to avoid a short to the output stage and damage.

    Also, if you're going to connect more than one pair of speakers I recommend you to wire them in series not in parallel that way you keep the impedance up into safe levels.

    Good luck.

    The mosfet models are 2 ohm stable in stereo mode. I have bridged 2 of the ones with fans into a 4 ohm load "at a party" without problems. They would not clip easily. The fans would turn on more often than normal but it is understandable. You can't hear them btw.

    They sound so good you never wanna go back to stereo.

    My main system has 2 A400PROs bridged through a PRO=CONTROL FOUR and it is my favorite setup.

  4. #79
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    southwest
    Posts
    4
    Quote Originally Posted by rickedd46 View Post
    Hello,

    Any amplifier which is bridged must be at least 4 ohms stable in stereo mode (your amps are). The reason for this is because once bridged the left (a) will see half the load and the right channel (b) will see the other half which means it'll put out the amount of wattage which it delivers to a pair of 4 ohms loads to a single 8 ohm instead.

    Through the years Soundcraftsmen made several models based on the MA5002's class H circuitry, same amplifier with different faceplates, gain controls, etc. Some of them had a bridge option built in and were more expensive. We bridged one and left it as a demo for a subwoofer display with a diy dual 15" cabinet and the amp was stable and would not get hot.

    So to answer your question. Yes, they can be bridged as long as the impedance of the load does not go below 8 ohms for each amplifier.

    Remember the positive output of CH.A becomes (-) and the positive output of CH.B becomes (+). Which means that once you bridge them with the adapter the black (-) ground can not be used to avoid a short to the output stage and damage.

    Also, if you're going to connect more than one pair of speakers I recommend you to wire them in series not in parallel that way you keep the impedance up into safe levels.

    Good luck.

    The mosfet models are 2 ohm stable in stereo mode. I have bridged 2 of the ones with fans into a 4 ohm load "at a party" without problems. They would not clip easily. The fans would turn on more often than normal but it is understandable. You can't hear them btw.

    They sound so good you never wanna go back to stereo.

    My main system has 2 A400PROs bridged through a PRO=CONTROL FOUR and it is my favorite setup.
    Thank You Very Very much for the info !!! been going nuts !! I guess I have to decide if it is worth the risk to bridge them as it sounds like there is a risk factor involved ("once you bridge them with the adapter the black (-) ground can not be used to avoid a short to the output stage and damage."). What happens if the bridge adapter goes out or fails ?? Will it blow both amps?? or is it possible to install some sort of fuse system I wonder.
    Soundcraftsmen has been a favorite of mine since the 80's, I bought a DC2215 eq and was stunned at its performance when compared to others !!
    Thanks Again !!
    Hunterdog61

  5. #80
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    38
    Quote Originally Posted by hunterdog61 View Post
    Thank You Very Very much for the info !!! been going nuts !! I guess I have to decide if it is worth the risk to bridge them as it sounds like there is a risk factor involved ("once you bridge them with the adapter the black (-) ground can not be used to avoid a short to the output stage and damage."). What happens if the bridge adapter goes out or fails ?? Will it blow both amps?? or is it possible to install some sort of fuse system I wonder.
    Soundcraftsmen has been a favorite of mine since the 80's, I bought a DC2215 eq and was stunned at its performance when compared to others !!
    Thanks Again !!
    Hunterdog61
    Hunter,

    What kind of speakers do you have?

    What's their impedance?

    What is their maximum wattage rating?

    Can they be bi-amped? This is a safer route but not as much wattage.

    Your amps are 375W/Ch stereo @4 ohms = 750W/bridged @8 ohms. I don't see a problem if the connections are wired as per the bridging device's instruction manual.

    The bridging device will not go bad unless the power supply voltage exceeds its requirements and it has a built in PSU so I don't see that happening.

  6. #81
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    3

    Soundcraftsman A2801 Schematic

    Hi Rickedd46,
    Thanks for the reply back in March. I Have been away working the last 2 months and have not been able to catch up with everything thing yet.
    The amp is working with about 0.5volt dc on the output. Looking at the output on the tektronix - it produces clean signwave. I have replaced the caps on the board so far, but I have still to replace the psu caps. I do need to adjust the dc offset. Can you please supply a copy of the schematic for the A2801.
    Thanks William

  7. #82
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    38
    Quote Originally Posted by william134 View Post
    Hi Rickedd46,
    Thanks for the reply back in March. I Have been away working the last 2 months and have not been able to catch up with everything thing yet.
    The amp is working with about 0.5volt dc on the output. Looking at the output on the tektronix - it produces clean signwave. I have replaced the caps on the board so far, but I have still to replace the psu caps. I do need to adjust the dc offset. Can you please supply a copy of the schematic for the A2801.
    Thanks William
    Hello William,

    Please PM me your email.

    BTW,

    Did you replace the input (25mfd np) caps?

  8. #83
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    3

    Smile Soundcraftsman A2801

    Hi rickedd46,

    My email is miles.essery@three.com.au

    Yes, I used Elna 50V NP radial caps that I had.

    Thanks William

  9. #84
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    38
    Quote Originally Posted by william134 View Post
    Hi rickedd46,

    My email is miles.essery@three.com.au

    Yes, I used Elna 50V NP radial caps that I had.

    Thanks William
    William,

    Check your email.

  10. #85
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Central Coast California
    Posts
    9,037

    rickedd46

    I recently acquired a NIB DX4200 that has 220/240V stickers all over the back and on the box. Inside the box are instructions for converting it to 110/120V by changing four wires, which seems simple enough, yet what's inside the case is not what's described on the paper. The paper refers to black, red, black/white, and red/white wires, none of which are present. The power cord is attached direct to the unswitched outlet on the back (I assume that might be the red and black wires), and a single white wire runs off that to the fuse holder.

    I opened up a working DX4200 with 110/120V connections and it's identical to the "new" unit I just got, except for one wire, which may simply be be an on-the-fly change.

    The other confusing thing is that the 220/240V unit has a standard three way plug, just like all my other Soundcraftsmen units. I would expect a different plug.

    Of course the guy I bought it from has no idea about any of this, saying he never opened the box or used the unit.

    Any thoughts? Do you know anything about 220/240 operation on these and how the transformer should be wired for 110/120?
    Out.

  11. #86
    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    7,037
    FWIW: Nearly all of my later Soundcraftsmen units are labeled 220/240v and yet they all are running on 110v. One of my DX4200s has two 220v stickers on the back and one has none. Both have the standard U.S. electric cord and both are working fine. I'm guessing a lot of Soundcraftsmen sales near the end were to PXs and those in foreign service and the systems were later converted to 110v but the stickers never removed. I have the original sales info for three units that were shipped from California to Korea to an ambassador there. They came back to NA and then to me from Canada. All are labeled 240v.

    I'd say if the plug fits, you're good to go.
    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

  12. #87
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Central Coast California
    Posts
    9,037
    Good info, thanks. I'm thinking the worst that can happen is there's just not enough juice to get them going if they are really wired for 220. OTOH, plugging a 110V unit into a 220V circuit would have some resounding effects.

    This was a nice pick up for a hundred bucks, as long as I don't fry it.

    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCCA View Post
    FWIW: Nearly all of my later Soundcraftsmen units are labeled 220/240v and yet they all are running on 110v. One of my DX4200s has two 220v stickers on the back and one has none. Both have the standard U.S. electric cord and both are working fine. I'm guessing a lot of Soundcraftsmen sales near the end were to PXs and those in foreign service and the systems were later converted to 110v but the stickers never removed. I have the original sales info for three units that were shipped from California to Korea to an ambassador there. They came back to NA and then to me from Canada. All are labeled 240v.

    I'd say if the plug fits, you're good to go.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Out.

  13. #88
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Central Coast California
    Posts
    9,037
    Insteead of posting more pics here and cluttering this thread, I'll put them here:

    http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...l=1#post289391
    Out.

  14. #89
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    38
    Quote Originally Posted by Titanium Dome View Post
    I recently acquired a NIB DX4200 that has 220/240V stickers all over the back and on the box. Inside the box are instructions for converting it to 110/120V by changing four wires, which seems simple enough, yet what's inside the case is not what's described on the paper. The paper refers to black, red, black/white, and red/white wires, none of which are present. The power cord is attached direct to the unswitched outlet on the back (I assume that might be the red and black wires), and a single white wire runs off that to the fuse holder.

    I opened up a working DX4200 with 110/120V connections and it's identical to the "new" unit I just got, except for one wire, which may simply be be an on-the-fly change.

    The other confusing thing is that the 220/240V unit has a standard three way plug, just like all my other Soundcraftsmen units. I would expect a different plug.

    Of course the guy I bought it from has no idea about any of this, saying he never opened the box or used the unit.

    Any thoughts? Do you know anything about 220/240 operation on these and how the transformer should be wired for 110/120?
    Hello Titanium Dome,

    I don't have a DX4200 to use as a reference but I will explain it in a simple way.

    Transformers which are dual voltage have 2 pairs of primaries (4 wires).

    So if the primaries are in wired series its input should be 220V and if the primaries are wired in parallel its input should be 120V. The secondaries stay as they are from the factory so they don't need to be touched.

    This is a good example...

    http://www.hammondmfg.com/5CHook.htm

    Series Winding Connections (Primary)



    Parallel Winding Connections (Primary)



    2 and 4 (dotted) are the 110V inputs. 1 and 3 are 0V.

    I hope this helps.

  15. #90
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    38

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Sweet Soundcraftsmen Score
    By Titanium Dome in forum Miscellaneous Gear
    Replies: 61
    Last Post: 03-18-2014, 07:02 PM
  2. HK AVR354, new purchase
    By JBLAddict in forum Consumer Amps
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 01-02-2009, 01:55 AM
  3. Where to purchase flat jumper for my K2 5500
    By fallot in forum Lansing Product General Information
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 07-10-2007, 09:32 PM
  4. Soundcraftsmen, same as the Hafler?
    By still4given in forum Professional Amps
    Replies: 31
    Last Post: 10-12-2004, 06:00 AM
  5. Soundcraftsmen PCR800, worth fixing?
    By still4given in forum Lansing Product Technical Help
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 08-11-2004, 09:50 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •