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Thread: Soundcraftsmen purchase help

  1. #196
    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by racinoffrd View Post
    I just saw a Soundcraftsmen Power Four-17 on Ebay. Does anyone know what a Power Four-17 is. I'm curious to know what that is. It also has a Control Four-17 for a pre-amp. I just had never heard of such a monster.
    Actually, it shows a Control Three-17 as the pre-amp.

    Soundcraftsmen's nomenclature is pretty simple: These are the same as the Pro Control Three and Pro Power Four except they don't have 19-inch rack-mountable front panels. The "17" indicates the size of the front panel. There may be some minor input differences but you'd have to see the backs to be sure. Pretty aggressive prices for stuff that got abused by Parks and Rec in playgrounds and camps.


    BTW, anyone have any leads on a replacement relay that powers the switched outlet on a Pro Control Three or Four? I bought one and if I physically move the lever in the relay with power on it will close the circuit and release it on powering-down, but it won't close the circuit on its own. The seller is willing to work with me to make it right but we can't seem to find a replacement relay. Here's a shot of it in-place with the top removed (pencil pointing to relay). Thanks for any help.

    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

  2. #197
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    Power Four-17

    Your it was a control three. My bad. Thanks for the explanation. I didn't catch that!

  3. #198
    Member racinoffrd's Avatar
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    Pro Control Four

    BMWCCA

    Have you tried for the Control Four that is on Ebay for parts? They what a pretty penny for it but it's been on there for a while now. Maybe they will take a better price for it. Then you'll have other parts for that pre-amp. In the future I may need a volume pot. Mine was turned past the stops (I believe by my grandson). I just don't know who to send it to, to have fixed. And I can't afford it right now. I
    just don't trust any shop to work on my Soundcraftsmen stuff.

  4. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by racinoffrd View Post
    Have you tried for the Control Four that is on Ebay for parts? They what a pretty penny for it but it's been on there for a while now. Maybe they will take a better price for it.
    That seller is an A-hole! Plus he's asking more for a non-working unit than I paid for one that works but just won't power-up the switched outlet. I'm going under the assumption that the relay has to be something common I just haven't found yet. And my seller is willing to work with me to compensate for any expense to make it right. And it's the third Pro Control Four I have so it could become a donor in the future, if I needed one.

    Right now I'm running one in my main system with Pro EQ 44, Pro Tuner Four, Ashly XR1001, Crown PS400 and PS200, Emotiva XDA-2 and JBL 4345s. The second system is an all-Crown SL2, PL3, FM2 setup available to any of twelve other JBL systems and the second Pro Control Four is in an all Soundcraftsmen system with Pro Tuner Four, Pro EQ 44, and Pro Power Four all racked with other spares.

    It's really all for fun the beyond the main system which I use for deep listening.
    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

  5. #200
    Member racinoffrd's Avatar
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    Pro Control Four

    I see that you don't need it really bad. Your setting pretty good.


    hay by chance, do you have the owners manual for that PP4? If you do and it's not a big problem can you make me a copy? I had all my manuals that one time, but I don't know what happened to them all. So now I'm trying to get all the manuals for my system. The PP4 is one of them. I believe you got me the for the PC4 some time ago. Which I greatly appreciate! I'm still looking for my other pieces.

  6. #201
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    Eqalizers

    I really don't know where to ask this question so I will ask in this thread. Does anyone know if the Soundcraftsmen DC4415(RCA) and the TG3044(1/4") are the same EQ except the Connectors on the back? I ask because they look identical to me but the connectors. I just hope there is someone in this thread that knows.

  7. #202
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    back from the depths!

    I've been picking up some Soundcraftsmen gear recently and hoping I can find some like minded folks here, any of you guys with SC experienced guys still around?

  8. #203
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    Yes! What do you need to know? (or need done..)

    -Matt

    Quote Originally Posted by Goggle1824 View Post
    I've been picking up some Soundcraftsmen gear recently and hoping I can find some like minded folks here, any of you guys with SC experienced guys still around?

  9. #204
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    Post Parts & Servicing Info

    Most immediately I'm looking for the schematic for the PM-860, it just arrived and though described as "fully functional", it is not. It has (at least) a blown 12amp ceramic fuse in it.

    Upon replacing that with a 10amp ceramic fuse and putting it on a Dim Bulb Tester, I still have full brightness on the bulb.

    Thinking it may be a blown output but sure would be nice to have some additional info to work from on this.

    I also have a cx-4100 pre and an A200 & A400 which both will need some level of service in the future.

    What are the key pieces and parts to test & replace to get these guys running their best again?

    Just a few questions!

  10. #205
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    I attached a couple to get you started.

    The biggest thing to watch for is the large 10W resistor on the power supply board, make sure it hasn't desoldered itsself and that the fan spins on low when the unit is turned on. If you are worried about a blown output, put a voltmeter across the outputs to check for a high dc voltage with no speakers attached.

    If you've blown the fuse I am betting that an SCR in the power supply has failed. Look for shorts across one of the SCR's on the power supply board and or a shorted main filter cap, either can take out a fuse. I haven't ever seen a fuse blow because of a bad channel, the protection circuits usually shut the show down before the fuse goes. (But hey, anything can happen right?) :-)


    -Matt

    Quote Originally Posted by Goggle1824 View Post
    Most immediately I'm looking for the schematic for the PM-860, it just arrived and though described as "fully functional", it is not. It has (at least) a blown 12amp ceramic fuse in it.

    Upon replacing that with a 10amp ceramic fuse and putting it on a Dim Bulb Tester, I still have full brightness on the bulb.

    Thinking it may be a blown output but sure would be nice to have some additional info to work from on this.

    I also have a cx-4100 pre and an A200 & A400 which both will need some level of service in the future.

    What are the key pieces and parts to test & replace to get these guys running their best again?

    Just a few questions!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #206
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    Thank you most kindly! These will certainly help.

    I didnt blow the fuse, but it tested open so it's blown.

    i just used the 10A because I had it here, need to check what's actually called for, I believe my 5501 calls for a 5W, don't imagine they are THAT different.

    Thanks for the insight regarding the 10W resistor, I'll check that for sure, then onto the SCRs for the power supply, then to the outputs to check for high DC voltage?

  12. #207
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    Well, looks like it's, at least, the two negative channel SCRs on the power supply board, they're both measuring low resistance when measured on the DMM (.2 & .3) vs the other two measuring infinite.

    going to double back through this thread now to see if there are known current parts numbers available for these, fingers crossed!!!

  13. #208
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    Try disconnecting the two main capacitors and see if either one of them is shorted also. The SCR's are common 4010's, although you can replace them with 4020 or 4025's for higher current capacity. If 1 or more SCR's are shorted you'll want to check the two drive transistors for the SCR's and also each SCR gate has a low value resistor on it, those can go open or really high when the SCR's shorts.

    -Matt


    Quote Originally Posted by Goggle1824 View Post
    Well, looks like it's, at least, the two negative channel SCRs on the power supply board, they're both measuring low resistance when measured on the DMM (.2 & .3) vs the other two measuring infinite.

    going to double back through this thread now to see if there are known current parts numbers available for these, fingers crossed!!!

  14. #209
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    More Soundcraftsmen

    Well, picked up a couple more SC pieces to futz with.

    Brought home a A400 Pro and 2 A200 Pros, one of which has an issue that randomly "flickers" my dim bulb tester, haven't experienced that before .

    These are all MTX-Soundcraftsmen, will be interesting to A/B them against the original "script" Soundcraftsmen gear.

  15. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goggle1824 View Post

    These are all MTX-Soundcraftsmen, will be interesting to A/B them against the original "script" Soundcraftsmen gear.
    I have half-a-dozen or more (would have to check what's boxed up) of these A series amps: A400, A200, A100. Most, but not all, have the MTX branding on them. Some with lower serial numbers do not have MTX on the enclosures, only "Soundcraftsmen."

    My guess--and it's only a guess--is that these models were already in the pipeline at the time of the unfortunate sale of the company, thus are of true Soundcraftsmen origin. IMO, MTX was not capable of this level of design, didn't know how to market at this level, and couldn't really bring in a "next generation" that would be an actual improvement. So, MTX milked the cow dry, then threw the carcass into the ditch.

    It wouldn't be the first time a company bought another and didn't know what to do with it:cough, cough, Harm- cough, cough, -an, cough cough!!
    Out.

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