Speaker Cable Directly To The Woofer?

[Rolf]

Hi friends.

Does anybody know if it improve the sound from the 2235H by connecting the speaker cable directly to the woofer terminals instead of connecting them to the terminals on the back of the speaker? In that case one bypass the switch for the woofers cables.

As most know, I use bi-amping.

At the same time ... is there any idea to rotate the woofers from time to time??

[BMWCCA]

Does anybody know if it improve the sound from the 2235H by connecting the speaker cable directly to the woofer terminals instead of connecting them to the terminals on the back of the speaker? In that case one bypass the switch for the woofers cables.

In GT's comments on the 4345 and 250Ti he definitely supported getting rid of the switch when bi-amping. Others have suggested it is a weak point.

[timc]

I would say yes on both.

It's not said you will hear a difference. But you will get the best out of it regardless.

Better to be safe than sorry.



-Tim

[Robh3606]

What does the schematic show you?? Does anything stay in the circuit when you flip the switch?? Does the Zobel stay in?? If not just go straight in. Switches can always get oxidized and noisey/lossy.

Rotating the woofers?? I don't think so a lot of the mass is concertrated in the mass ring right at the spider. I guess it couldn't hurt but I always get nervous with a screw driver close to those soft foam surrounds.

Rob

[Allanvh5150]

Look at it this way, everytime an electric current flows through a less than solid (push terminal, switch etc) you will get an increase in overall resistance with a corresponding decrese in overall power. I am sure that you will not hear the difference unless the connection is very bad. The only reson manufactures include a connection on thier cabinets is to facilitate ease of connection. If it is easy for you I would go with the direct connection.

Allan.

[Allanvh5150]

So Allan,

Are you proposing we all drill holes in our much loved jbl boxes and poke a wire in for direct connection.

Oh, I guess we should bypass the driver binding posts as well....LOL

Not at all. Disconnetct the tinsel leads from the binding posts and poke them out through the front of the cone and just hook the cable on there.......

No Ian, to be serious, one could always make up a new rear plate and run the cable through that way or put a speakon on the plate. It would be better than original and you could always return the cabinet to stock easily. Even when I have modified crossovers etc in my beloved JBL's I have always removed all the electronics and stored them away and replaced the whole assembly. I never make changes that I cant put back without a trace. But thanks for the concern.

Allan.

[opimax]

Phil,

What switch are you referring to with the 250TI? The original ti and L just have one set of speaker connectors on the back. The TIBQ has 2 inputs for passive biamping but no switch. The only by passing would be the XO and the woofer would run full range which would not be optimal

Do you know where that post is so I can read it? I am a little confused

Mark

[toddalin]

Oh, I guess we should bypass the driver binding posts as well....LOL

Well I for one silver solder the spade lugs onto the wires between the terminals and diaphrams on my horn drivers that don't have seals intact. Otherwise, these are just a crimp fitting.

May not help, but couldn't hurt as long as you are careful. Also gives you an oppurtunity to check the foams.

[BMWCCA]

What switch are you referring to with the 250TI? Do you know where that post is so I can read it? I am a little confused

Sorry for the confusion. It was simply a post where GT was discussing the 4345 and made a reference to the 250ti. No suggestion of bypassing anything on the 250ti, just referring to the post in a way most here might remember it. It is here: http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...49&postcount=3

[opimax]

thx, I remember that post after rereading it.

Makes me want to go tinker and listen!

Mark

[Rolf]

Confirmed.

As a practical test if you short the woofer wires (inside the stock 4345 box) and have an accurate low ohms meter the DCR is quite significant relative to the output impediance of a modern amplifier. I would expect similar conditions with the 4343. The switches were rotary wiper type as I recall.

In readings of the history/product profiles the biamp switch was a marketing decision.

Its worth bypassing the biamp switch. This will audibly improve performance on not just the lows but the highs. There was a thread somewhere on doing this with a diagram. If you are not planning on selling them carefully install some Speakons or HQ binding posts. Its a lot easier than messing with that switch and you can do a lot better than those old terminals.

Useful link
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...&postcount=123

Hi Ian. The only thing I have in my mind to do is to drill a hole at the back of the speaker, take the speaker cable through it, and connect it to the woofer terminals. Not messing with the switch at all. Won't this do?

[Allanvh5150]

Hi Rolf,

If you run the cable to the 2235, you will bypass the crossover. What is the cabinet? Did I miss something?

Allan.

[Rolf]

Hi Rolf,

If you run the cable to the 2235, you will bypass the crossover. What is the cabinet? Did I miss something?

Allan.

I use a electronic cross over. (JBL/UREI)

[Allanvh5150]

I use a electronic cross over. (JBL/UREI)

So it is only a 2235 in a box?

Allan.

[hjames]

So it is only a 2235 in a box?

Allan.

I believe he is talking about his pair of 4343s ...

What I did with my 4341s is to just make a new rear plate,
put a second pair of binding posts on the rear plate and
tie them directly to the woofer with quality cable. Seemed like an easy approach.

(the picture is from the back of my L200 3-ways but i did exactly the same thing with the 4341s)