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Thread: Help with 4320

  1. #1
    dkorn
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    Help with 4320

    After a long wait, I got a pair of 2405 and a pair of 3106 in order to retrofit my 4320 with UHF.
    2 Questions:

    -I took the lenses off the baffle to unscrew the horn (more on this later). They were glued. What do you people recommend to reattach them? Velcro?

    -Previous owner (John Entwistle) had a on/off switch fitted for the horn. prolly to use 4320 as some LF unit. Anyway, upon inspection, I find out horn was wired "backwards", i.e.: red terminal on the Xover was actually connected to black on the horn. The switch terminals was where inversion took place.

    Is this normal wiring? Was this horn wired wrongly?

    I haven't checked the other speaker yet.

    thanks for any help

  2. #2
    Senior Señor boputnam's Avatar
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    Hey...

    The lenses on many/most latter versions was held-on with Velcro. Works fine...

    There is no harm in Entwistle having cross-wired the HF - that would have given a "boost" in the range of the crossover. Maybe he prefered that sound - but it is not "as designed" by JBL, which calls for Red (or GRN or solid non-black)-to-Red.
    bo

    "Indeed, not!!"

  3. #3
    Super Moderator Hofmannhp's Avatar
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    The Who

    Hi Bo,


    as everybody knows, John Entwistle plays bass guitar.....
    .he don't need a horn.....

    HP
    (former, and sometimes today "Who" fan)
    Please help us save more info about the vintage systems. Let us register your speakers and drivers.

  4. #4
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    Hi korn,

    I replaced the original black velcro on my 4333A with the clear plastic ones from 3M. There are heavy duty ones and can hold the lens very firmly in a vertical position.

    David

  5. #5
    dkorn
    Guest

    4320 wiring --the recap

    So --the big question: what would be the correct wiring of a rigged 4320 consisting of a:
    2215B LF
    2420/2307 compression driver/horn
    2405 UHF driver
    with original 3110 and newly added 3106 Xovers?
    Currently, the 2420/2307 are (were) connected in reverse to the 3110.
    Thanks!

    David Korn -who doesn't like Korn.

  6. #6
    dkorn
    Guest

    a by ear wiring job...

    Here's what I did, and it sounds good to me:

    3110 terminal 1 (LF) ->2215B red
    3110 terminal 2 (LF) ->2215B black
    (that's the way it was)

    3110 terminal 3 (HF)->3106 black
    3110 terminal 4 (HF) ->3106 red
    (I think that's inverted from "normal" connecting rule)

    3106 terminal 1 (LF) ->horn black
    3106 terminal 2 (LF) ->horn red
    (so that's another inversion, meaning in phase with LF)

    3106 terminal 3 (HF)->2405 red
    3106 terminal 4 (HF) ->2405 black
    (that's inverted)

    I should maybe have hooked up the 3106 to the 3110 the other way around for the sake of simplicity, but at this point, my head started to ache. It sounds good like that, I'll try other ways on a fresh head !

  7. #7
    Senior Señor boputnam's Avatar
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    Sorry, David - been tied-up in rehearsals, and whatnot...

    I can't tell about the 3106. What do you mean "inverted from 'normal' connection"...?

    And, if done this way, it seems the 2420 and 2405 are all in-phase with the 2215B. I wonder if it would be more "pleasing" were they not. But, to test that, I would NOT connect the 3106 differently, I would crosswire the individual drivers...

    But in the end, it's what sounds good that matters...
    bo

    "Indeed, not!!"

  8. #8
    Alex Lancaster
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    Hi:

    AFAIK, in the 31xx xovers, terminals 1 and 4 are "red", 2 and 3 "black", the xovers do the inversion electrically, I think the manual is in this forum, if not, I surely have it.

  9. #9
    Senior Señor boputnam's Avatar
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    Hey, Alex...

    That is exactly how I read the schematics.
    Last edited by boputnam; 05-14-2004 at 03:16 PM.
    bo

    "Indeed, not!!"

  10. #10
    dkorn
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    If 1 and 4 are red, looks like my 2420 and 2405 aren't properly wired, but the 3106 is.
    Would be curious to check the manual if you have it...

  11. #11
    dkorn
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    opening 3110 box

    I got to fix a loose terminal in my 3110 and it's sealed. How would you go around opening it? Drilling the rivets that are on the side?

  12. #12
    Senior Señor boputnam's Avatar
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    Originally posted by dkorn
    ...looks like my 2420 and 2405 aren't properly wired, but the 3106 is.
    Bingo! That's what I'm thinking. But would be interested in your hearing of the difference...
    bo

    "Indeed, not!!"

  13. #13
    Alex Lancaster
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    Smile

    Let me look for the "manual", it is like an owners´, not service, I´ll post it ASAP.

  14. #14
    dkorn
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    quote:
    Originally posted by dkorn
    ...looks like my 2420 and 2405 aren't properly wired, but the 3106 is.
    Bingo! That's what I'm thinking. But would be interested in your hearing of the difference..
    Me too !
    I'll try that tomorrow with a fresh set of ears.
    My first tests were on one speaker only, as I had not retrofitted the other...

  15. #15
    Alex Lancaster
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    Smile

    DKorn:

    If You want to take it completely apart, drill out the rivets, put the bottom in a hot plate, (it is filled with wax), and when You can, pull out the cover; For reassembly, reheat the wax, dunk all the components and either re-rivet or use sheet metal screws.

    Hope it helps.

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