Help testing polarity on individual drivers 250TI

[opimax]

I am using TIBQ XO on my 250TI speakers. In the tech manual sheet http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Te...0TiBQ%20ts.pdf it states "+ denotes outward cone movement with positive voltage applied to the red input terminal" and - for the opposite. For each of the 4 drivers it shows + for the 14-1 (14-3 in my case),-for the 108, + for the 104 and - for the 044.

I hooked a spare no name speaker to each of the lower 3 connections with all other speakers dissconnected to test. I could tell on the 14 by seeing & feeling the movement of the cone and I am pretty sure but not 100% for the 108 but the 104 ???and I didn't even try the 044 connection.

Is there another method to check individual driver cone movement w/a battery at the input terminal?

Also on the 104 driver I didn't see an actual + or - label on the connectors but did note some writing on the frame directly next to the terminal and ASSUMED that meant +, was this correct?:dont-know

I also ASSUME that CC coupling does not change any of the polarity issues, correct?

Lastly (at this point ) since the 14 is outward movement when positive battery is on the posiitive (done by the XO I ASSUME [again]since an original TI XO is pos to pos causes inward cone movement) on the input this would make it "opposite" of the rest of my 120TI and 18TI used in this 7.2 system, where I reverse the the 120 and 18 so pos from amp goes to neg on speaker of these speakers?

Thanks much,

Mark

[BMWCCA]

Let me grab some popcorn! It's bound to be a long evening.

[opimax]

From the voice of experience!! lol I thought these were strait forward questions and some old time experts probably know off the top of their heads.

A method for testing cone movement if there is 1? maybe there isn't or it takes more equipment then I have,OK. That is the biggest question, the rest I am pretty sure I have.

Maybe the writing on the frame of the 104, I bet someone know off the top of their head

The hook up w/the rest of the system again I am pretty sure is correct (all other things being done properly)

SO don't poo poo my thread because you can't take a little help on your overly complex setup(note friendly sarcasm just in case)

Mark

PS add some value to this if you know anything hahahahaha

[Robh3606]

Hello Mark

I just went through polarity hell on my L250Ti Jubilee clones. Be careful and verify what the drivers are actually doing with a 1.5 volt battery. You can't do the polarity test on any of the driver besides the woofer in the cabinet with the crossover connected. The other drivers all have series capacitors that block the DC. Don't do the battery test to the tweeter.

On the Jubilee schematic they have the actual driver polarity not the wiring polarity so watch it in can get confusing.

The LE-14H-3 and the 108H are standard JBL polarity. That means a + on the - terminal gives forward cone movement. The polarity on the 104H is set by the Fast-on Connectors. The Male is the Plus for conventional polarity so a + on the Male gives forward cone motion.


As examples:

The Le-14 is JBL standard so it it has a + you have to wire it up with the positive input on the Black negative driver lead.

On the 108H Midrange it is - so because it is JBL standard the + goes to the + Red on the driver

104H driver spec sheet:

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...ead.php?t=5706

On the Jubilee the 104H is +. That means you hook up to the male fast-on with the + side of the signal.


Rob

[Robh3606]

LE14H-1 and H-3 are postive polarity, I do believe.

That is not correct please check the individual driver sheets in the Tech Section. He is using an Le-14H-3 which is JBL Standard

Rob

[Zilch]

Checked,

Deleted.

DRAT!

All of my H-1s are from Citation 7.4 stock and have AES labels on them.

[Drives me nutz here.... ]