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Thread: L220A Network Controls

  1. #1
    Senior Member pmakres1's Avatar
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    L220A Network Controls

    Good evening all,

    Last evening I performed a long overdue cleaning on my L220A's Mid and High frequency level controls. It really needed to be done-the right mid control was causing the driver to cut in and out, and they all had many "dead" areas. I wasn't sure how effectively I could do it without opening up the control, but spraying De-ox-id into the area where the lead tabs protrude through the cases, and into some other small openings seemed to do the trick quite well. However, the left mid control still has an issue, not a showstopper but it seems that it may have some damaged windings inside, from the sound and feel of it. And, it does have one "dead" area remaining that I can't seem to revive. So, I'm pondering the idea of at some point replacing just this one control, since I seem to be in good shape with the other three. It's not an emergency.

    Has anyone here had any experience with replacing the network controls on the N220 network? Are the parts available, and if so, how difficult is it to replace the control? From the looks of it, it may not be a job for the faint-hearted.

    Thanks,

    Peter
    L220A's w/B460; 4313B's w/2241-based Sub; 4401's w/JL Audio E112

  2. #2
    Senior Member pmakres1's Avatar
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    Is there anybody out there?

    I can't believe there isn't anybody here who has had experience with replacing L220 Network controls?

    Peter
    L220A's w/B460; 4313B's w/2241-based Sub; 4401's w/JL Audio E112

  3. #3
    Junior Member Vintage Spk's Avatar
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    L220A L-pad replace

    Hi...new here, but I think you're talking about the L-pad going bad?

    I also took apart and inspect mine scratchy L-pads (L222), and saw few coils of wires lacking proper contact with the L-pad dial.

    Lots info. from Steve Gonzales here :

    http://audioheritage.csdco.com/vbull...&highlight=pot

    Used a butter knife to remove the plastic control knob, then desoldered it.
    Measured the shaft length and ordered the 50watt 8 ohm L-Pads from Partsexpress (Replaced all four).

    Now no more scratchy or intermittent sound

  4. #4
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    Hello Peter,

    4 jears ago, my l220 becomes complete new x-over! The sound is much better, i will never return to the original x-over. Sorry, bad english.

    Andreas

  5. #5
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    I replaced the midrange control on an L220 crossover with a matching part salvaged from (as I recall) an L150A or L112 crossover. The original had a "crunchy" sector in its rotation. The replacement worked just fine.

    John

  6. #6
    Senior Member pmakres1's Avatar
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    Thanks for your input guys....one of mine has the "crunchy" sector jdurbin1 described. The question will be whether to replace just one or all four...

    Peter
    L220A's w/B460; 4313B's w/2241-based Sub; 4401's w/JL Audio E112

  7. #7
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    Like I've said several times before, just replace them all with the "50 watt" L-Pads. I wouldn't waste my time not doing it. I use the "50 watt" L-Pads instead of the "15 watt" L-Pads on even the most minimal systems.

  8. #8
    Senior Member pmakres1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4313B View Post
    Like I've said several times before, just replace them all with the "50 watt" L-Pads. I wouldn't waste my time not doing it. I use the "50 watt" L-Pads instead of the "15 watt" L-Pads on even the most minimal systems.
    Yep, it seems good sense to just replace them all...eveyone seems okay with parts available from Parts Express, so that's good to know. I'll try to do this in the near future. I'll use the 50 watters, for sure.

    Thanks guys!

    Peter
    L220A's w/B460; 4313B's w/2241-based Sub; 4401's w/JL Audio E112

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