My L250 project

[rdgrimes]

I figured I'd prolly have more than one question on my newest project and the search isn't getting me anywhere.


Problem number one:

The rear plate for tweeter access on one cab is refusing to budge. the other cab was difficult but I managed to get it out with minimal damage. This one is giving every indication of wanting to come out in pieces. I've run a blade most of the way around it but the gasket/seal is frozen solid.

My first thought is to run a couple large wood screws with the tips ground off into the existing holes to try to force the plate up and out. I tried anchoring larger screws in the holes and pulling on them with no success.

The pine screw flanges in the cab that the plate fastens to are not overly robust, so I'm also concerned about damaging them, although they could be replaced.

HELP!

[JeffW]

Maybe a little shot of heat from a heat gun will soften up whatever is sticking them up.

[rdgrimes]

I can't get the thing warm enough to make any difference. 3/4" board just doesn't absorb heat.

I'm tempted to try a little H2O.

[JeffW]

Can you screw a couple of little expansion screws into a couple of the screw holes in the cover? Might give you a handle to wiggle on. Mine were tight as heck as well, and all I wanted to do was see that they were the correct drivers.

[Andyoz]

I had similar trouble and used a broad metal painters spatula to prize it open (is that what you call them in the US?).

That way, you can apply pressure over a larger surface and not do any localised damage.

[rdgrimes]

I've already got the board split in a couple spots from prying on it. I put heat to it for a good 30 min too, and hammered a drywall blade into the cracks all the way around. It just flat will not budge.

I tried flat-tip wood screws driven into the screw block behind but they just chew into the screw-block and don't lift it. The board is too flaky to try pulling much on a screw, but that's prolly next. I need some kind of a lever that I can screw into the board to pry up with. My main goal is to not damage the cab, I'll likely wind up sacrificing the board.

[BMWCCA]

I don't know how the cabinets are constructed. Are the HF and the midrange in they're own compartments, or can you pull one or both and get your arm in there to remove the 044ti and then beat the panel out with a blunt tool or board? IIRC, the LE14 has its own sealed compartment so you can't go that way.

[rdgrimes]

I don't know how the cabinets are constructed. Are the HF and the midrange in they're own compartments, or can you pull one or both and get your arm in there to remove the 044ti and then beat the panel out with a blunt tool or board? IIRC, the LE14 has its own sealed compartment so you can't go that way.

Actually, the entire cab is open inside. the 108 and LE5 are each in their own boxes. there's just no way to get an arm up behind them to push on it. But even if I could, it's stuck too tight for that to help.

[BMWCCA]

there's just no way to get an arm up behind them to push on it. But even if I could, it's stuck too tight for that to help.

I was thinkin' getting an arm up there to undo the UHF screws and take it out to give you a direct shot at the panel with a baseball bat as a ram or a 2x4. Maybe put a piece of plywood the size of the panel inside over it to spread the load, then whack away with a deadblow hammer. Unless somebody glued it inplace, it ought to move a little. :dont-know

[rdgrimes]

I was thinkin' getting an arm up there to undo the UHF screws and take it out to give you a direct shot at the panel with a baseball bat as a ram or a 2x4. Maybe put a piece of plywood the size of the panel inside over it to spread the load, then whack away with a deadblow hammer. Unless somebody glued it inplace, it ought to move a little. :dont-know

Too far of a reach for that, and not enough room anyhow.

I did it!!!!

Most of you prolly know what a wonder-bar is. It's a wide, flat pry-bar that is very handy for taking a house apart and such jobs. I took a piece of pine stock, 3/4" x 1/2", and using 2 x 1/4" lag screws I screwed it down into existing holes. I slid the wonder-bar under it and clamped it down tight with the bar laying on the side wall of the cab. A little serious convincing popped the thing loose. It was way too stuck. The plate has some damage but I think I can still use it. Epoxy works wonders for repairing scarfed up particle board. That was most of one afternoon getting that damn thing off.

[Titanium Dome]

Uh, I could have saved you all that trouble, but you would have waited all day (until now) for my answer, and you found a quite similar solution, so well done!

[rdgrimes]

Uh, I could have saved you all that trouble, but you would have waited all day (until now) for my answer, and you found a quite similar solution, so well done!

Is that your idea of sharing? Cough it up wise guy.

[rdgrimes]

FWIW, the L250 cabs weigh 75# each with no drivers in them.

[Titanium Dome]

Is that your idea of sharing? Cough it up wise guy.

Heh, well, okay.

I took a scrap piece of 5/8" plywood and snugly screwed it into the extant holes so that about 2" of plywood extended beyond the sides of the cab. I took a 4 lb. mallet and firmly but carefully rapped the back of the plywood (inside the dimensions of the cabinet back) several times around, driving everything forward to get some compression breaks at the sticking points.

Then I turned the cab over onto some padded 1x2 supports on the floor, took a wood block and the mallet, hit the 2" plywood extensions on the left, then the right, then the left, then the right, and the thing popped right out in one piece.

Here's a not-to-scale drawing.

[rdgrimes]

Heh, well, okay.

I took a scrap piece of 5/8" plywood and snugly screwed it into the extant holes so that about 2" of plywood extended beyond the sides of the cab. I took a 4 lb. mallet and firmly but carefully rapped the back of the plywood (inside the dimensions of the cabinet back) several times around, driving everything forward to get some compression breaks at the sticking points.

Then I turned the cab over onto some padded 1x2 supports on the floor, took a wood block and the mallet, hit the 2" plywood extensions on the left, then the right, then the left, then the right, and the thing popped right out in one piece.

Here's a not-to-scale drawing.

My plan B was to be similar to your drawing. Only I would shim the plywood sheet up about 3/4" on the cabinet sides, then just use the screws to pull the panel out. Make the holes in the plywood large enough to let the screws turn and as soon as they bite the panel they will lift it like a sort of a gear puller. Less banging. more finesse.