So the diaphragm in the picture is ripped at the 12 o'clock position, therfor, it must be replaced.
Anyway, I would not use aftermarket parts.
So the diaphragm in the picture is ripped at the 12 o'clock position, therfor, it must be replaced.
Anyway, I would not use aftermarket parts.
ok so I will not loose my time with aftermarket parts, I don't like to live with a doubting hifi system.
But I've got a last question, now I've learned that JBL makes 2 different diaphragms that are suitable for 2404, D8R075 and D16R2405, a guy can sell me a D8R075, but as I can read this one is made for 075 and 2402, so if I use it in my 2404, will my 2404 stop at 15khz or 21khz ?
Answer is: In my opinion, no. In someone else's opinion, yes.
Andychris, you are letting your pocketbook dictate your decision.
Happy Holidays.
Scotty.
link:
D16R2405 $122.00 2405, 2405H, 2404H, 2404H-1 (62504-02X)
see link:
http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Goe...nto%20List.pdf
Last picture is an aftermarket diaphragm I installed for a friend. He was more concerned about price. I have not heard from him since, so all must be okay.
One step above: "Two Tin Cans and a String!"
Longtime Alaskan Low-Fi Guy - E=MC² ±3db
It look like its an older aluminum handled Utility knife aka Razorknife aka boxcutter??
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Utility_knife
2ch: WiiM Pro; Topping E30 II DAC; Oppo, Acurus RL-11, Acurus A200, JBL Dynamics Project - Offline: L212-TwinStack, VonSchweikert VR-4
7: TIVO, Oppo BDP103D, B&K, 2pr UREI 809A, TF600, JBL B460
I just scanned the thread and missed it if someone mentioned JBL used both diaphragms in the 2404, calling the one with the 2402 diaphragm the 2404-1 and using it where the crossover need to be shifted lower as in the 4612.
IMHO, and I may get flamed, but, SO WHAT?, The ONLY phragms are original manufactuer parts! PERIOD!
I used Radians Al pragm for the JBL 2441, IT AINT AS GOOD! Different sound, yeah, but...................................
scottyj
The blue stuff is tape to cover the gap to stop foreign material getting inside after the gap has been cleaned. You dont need to worry about this if your will be installing the new 'phragm straight away.
Yes, that is correct. The blue stuff is blue painter's tape to cover over the magnetic gap of the motor. It releases easily and leaves no residue. I just follow the lip of the diaphragm mounting area with a sharp blue knife, screw the horns back on and store them in a box for a later day.
I do not usually leave diaphrams in drivers in storage mode. All phragms are removed and labeled and stowed away.
Scotty.
One step above: "Two Tin Cans and a String!"
Longtime Alaskan Low-Fi Guy - E=MC² ±3db
Hello
so today I received a pair of aluminium aftermarket diaphragms for my 2404, and here are the graphs I obtain. The black one in the S3100 alone, the blue one is the 2404 JBL, the green and red are 2404 aftermarket. My soft is not very well calibrated but I think it's enough to see the differences. I let you tell what you think..........
I see by the graph that the blue line (2404 JBL) does not exhibit the dip that the others do. The JBL and aftermarket diaphrams are really different.
It proves the collective point offered here: Use original JBL diaphrams to acheive the same results from your speakers that the JBL engineers designed and implemented.
case closed.
Scott.
One step above: "Two Tin Cans and a String!"
Longtime Alaskan Low-Fi Guy - E=MC² ±3db
I've got another thing. The bue graph is the S3100 alone, the green one is the s3100+2404 aftermarket with 1 u condensator. Could you explain me why the graph is always ondulate like that ?
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