Can anyone tell me how far apart the pairs of speaker clamps are on the 2245H's? The drawings on the forum here don't give a measurement. It looks to be about 2" or so but I haven't drilled any holes in my baffles hoping someone had a pair they could measure for me.
Thanks
Well, if Riessen-reproduction measurements will help, mine are spaced exactly 2" apart measured linearly (not on the curve of the circumference). Also, FWIW, my black-ash versions have no exposed particle board between the baffle board and the solid-wood cap. I'm guessing the "cap" is larger enough to extend to the baffle, but I'm sure Rick can tell you what he did. I'll re-post one of his photos below so you can see if we're talking about the same thing.Originally Posted by JBLCanuck
I hope that helps.
Awesome...Exactly what I needed to know. If Ricks are 2" apart...I'm betting so were factory JBL's
Yes, on yours, Rick has either done them the same as I have or else he's done them the same as JBL does but veneered that 1/2" reveal because since he left that baffled stained...you wouldn't want PB showing.
Thanks very much for taking the time to measure for me!
Great buy on those, by the way!
Pleased to confirm: 2" center to center for factory cabinets over here. More pics after veneering, please!
I obviously don't have your talent to do it for myself! And space is so tight here, they're still in the van. One big-box pair has to leave to make room for another.
You're doing a great job on yours. Thanks for sharing the process.
The only alteration from factory 4345's I decided to make is that I don't like the way they just glue the 1/2" thick profile on the front edge & then paint the remaining PB that extends beyond the baffle, blue.
I cut my profile & then left 1/16" that extends the extra 1/2" so that it extends right to the baffle....basically making the top & side 1" PB appear to be 1-1/16" thick...which is how thick the original JBL material was anyway...you follow?
I'll post a pic later.
Got my Iron...my Titebond II...my veneer roller...all ready to roll
All panels are 1" on factory 4345 cabinets.
I'm not questioning what you say, just offering this data point (misc. note, below) since it was so fresh in my mind from my study of the projects:All panels are 1" on factory 4345 cabinets.
http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...6&postcount=16
Ahh! I see what you mean, as shown in Bo's picture here:
Perhaps I am wrong, but I know on my 4331, 4333 cabinets they are 1" PB with 3/4" 13 ply baffle and assumed that the rest of the 43xx line that used PB for cabinets were the same.I'm not questioning what you say, just offering this data point (misc. note, below) since it was so fresh in my mind from my study of the projects:
http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...6&postcount=16
In respect to the walnut front edge on the 4331.4333. The PB cabinet panel does extend past the front baffle but JBL fit the walnet front edge in such a way as to be invisible.
Most all 43XX monitors have 3/4" baltic birch baffles. Exceptions are 4315 with 3/4" P.B. and 4340,4341 and 4343 which use 1" P.B. for their baffles.Perhaps I am wrong, but I know on my 4331, 4333 cabinets they are 1" PB with 3/4" 13 ply baffle and assumed that the rest of the 43xx line that used PB for cabinets were the same.
In respect to the walnut front edge on the 4331.4333. The PB cabinet panel does extend past the front baffle but JBL fit the walnet front edge in such a way as to be invisible.
Most of the big monitors have the baffle recessed in from the front trim edge 3/4" to 7/8" depending on the model. The 4350 wall are 3/4" B.B and the face trim is 3/8" thick glued to the face of the cabinet. Generally the overhand is 3/4" so that leaves 3/8" of cabinet wall overhanging the baffle before installation of the trim.
On the other bevel face models the walls are 1" thick and the trim is generally 1/2" thick, again on top of approx. a 3/8" overhang.
For the most part JBL simply glued this trim in place. This might sound like poor practice buy if the cabinet is sound and has not been exposed to an overly dry or moist environment you'll play hell getting the old trim off without damage to the cabinet. I used to pry it off using a chiesel but left too many bomb craters in the P.B. sides. Now I edge guide router it off for my restorations.
This is when I found that they sometimes nailed the trim in place. I've trashed several good router bits in the process. I suspect that they did this when necessary to hold a warped piece in place. The nails were then set and finished over. Beware!!
Hi Rick,
In the diagram in "System Information" it says JBL used 1-1/6" PB on the 4345's....or was that including veneer or something?
Doesn't really matter because I don't think anyone sells such a product anyway.
Thanks for all the help & advice on these....it would be impossible without the expertise of others who've had the opportunity to get an original set apart & spend hours drawing pictures for the benefit of us rookies
On a related topic, has anyone come up with a part number, repro, or drawing for the bracket that supports the 2425J by attachment to the mid-bass box? I saw it once in a photo but can't find it now and my reproductions seem to be lacking that piece. I'm sure I can create something that would accomplish the purpose, but it'd be nice to have something close to original, if possible. I'm assuming it's important to have in place, yes? :dont-know
So, Is that the same bracket as used with the 2421's/2307 on the 4345's?
I'm making 2 of them shortly for my pair...there are drawings of it in the Systems Info section...pretty simple little sheet metal bracket if we're talking about the same one?
I could probably make an extra pair if this is the bracket you're talking about.
That's the one.
That is the one. I suppose driver make no difference since it's the horn-flange mounting bolts it attaches to so spacing would be the same. Let me know when you get to that point. It seems to serve a purpose.Do you have the horns you're using? Mine are supposed to be 2306.
Thanks for the drawing link. I knew I'd seen it somewhere. It does look like something even I could fabricate with some snips, a vice, and a file. Yours would likely look less rough!
Thanks.
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