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Thread: Stripped screw heads/ T nuts, help!

  1. #1
    Dis Member mikebake's Avatar
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    Stripped screw heads/ T nuts, help!

    Any tricks/tips for getting these out? Was trying to remove woofers from 4655BK's, a few screws have the heads stripped; can't get T-nuts backed out from back side to help either. Durn it.

  2. #2
    Senior Member grumpy's Avatar
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    Talking

    ever watch cartoons where a handsaw comes
    through the floor, circling the 'target' ?

    -grumpy

    If the head is far out enough to grab w/
    locking pliers, you might be able to pull hard
    enough to keep the T-nut from spinning...then
    unscrew while pulling... ? or drill small hole from
    the side toward/through the t-nut & insert
    something like coat-hanger wire (again to keep
    t-nut from spinning.

  3. #3
    Administrator Robh3606's Avatar
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    That sucks!!

    That is one tight cabinet you have no room at all on the sides and bottom. You try pulling out the connector panel?? You might at least be able to get a hand in the back for the sides and bottom. You try one of those special stripped screw bits?? Maybe you can carefully drill the heads off?? Tuff one.

    Good Luck Rob

  4. #4
    RE: Member when? subwoof's Avatar
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    hey there - been there / done that.....

    use a drill with a 11/64 bit and drill out the head.

    after you go down the thickness of the head it will snap off.

    You might have to grab the t-nut from the back. Use a pair of visegrips to hold it.

    DO NOT USE YOUR HANDS or you will have scars to show your grandkids. Those t-nut spikes are NASTY.

    Another tip - use a NEW #2 phillips bit - put it into the screw and hammer it down tight. THEN use a 1/4 nutdriver to turn it.

    have fun...

  5. #5
    RIP 2010 scott fitlin's Avatar
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    screw extractor

    Hardware stores carry screw extractor sets. You will have to drill the head first, then you insert the extractor tool into the head and turn. This will work, but only if the T-nut is still grabbing the wood tight. If the T nut is spinning freely, you will have to work with pliers or vise grips to hold the T nut, while you extract the screw.

    If you just drill the screw head till it snaps off, you will still have the screw shaft to deal with getting out.

  6. #6
    Senior Member DavidF's Avatar
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    Two methods learned from motorcycle repair fun days. If the metal is are fairly soft, use a hack blade or similar to cut a slot for a regular screw driver. Another is to use a reverse drill bit ( have not looked for one lately but used to be fairly common). This has the tendency to back the screw out as the bit bites into the screw.

    Both methods will create metal chips that may be a problem around the magnets, so should be the last resort type.

    DavidF

  7. #7
    Senior Member Steve's Avatar
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    Aloha
    One of the best buggered screw removing extractors I have found is available at Sears, of all places.
    I have used many different types in the past, square, round and others.
    The latest ones offered at Sears, ..have removed screws none of the others I have used before has with out drilling....Costly, at least over here.....
    http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952157000
    The web site has them a lot cheaper than out our local store. The kit I got of 4 of them was $20 plus...OUCH!!!.... worth it though....
    Sears item #00952157000
    Mfr. model #720SR

    Good luck....
    Might want to place a piece of plywood in front of the speaker cone just in case....

    Steve

  8. #8
    Senior Member Steve's Avatar
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    Almost forgot...
    With the corrosion where I live and lessons learned from the past...
    I always add a small dab of anti-sieze ( from local auto store ) to the screws, bolts etc. that I see I might want to remove at a later date. I put it on just about everything....cars, spark plugs, lug bolts, screws, nuts, even computer hardware.
    A small amount goes a long way......If not anti-sieze, then some plumbers grease.
    A product called bulb grease works wonders for light bulbs outside and autos. No more glass breaking away from the socket on those outside flood and motion lights etc.


    Steve

  9. #9
    Dis Member mikebake's Avatar
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    Helpful replies; thanks. I'm on my way!

    It all started because of a (seeming) problem with one of the crossovers, and my need to extract it.................

  10. #10
    RE: Member when? subwoof's Avatar
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    the threads on the tnuts always seem to go bad - esp when a drop of debris ( glue / cloth from cone edge ) gets into the hole.

    Once it's jammed, NO extractor, easyout,etc is gonna work. Drill it's tiny head off and be done with it...

    btw I have some of those crossovers sitting in my parts bin if needed.

    sub

  11. #11
    Dis Member mikebake's Avatar
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    Originally posted by subwoof
    the threads on the tnuts always seem to go bad - esp when a drop of debris ( glue / cloth from cone edge ) gets into the hole.

    Once it's jammed, NO extractor, easyout,etc is gonna work. Drill it's tiny head off and be done with it...

    btw I have some of those crossovers sitting in my parts bin if needed.

    sub
    Thanks, Actually I have the original crossovers; these were some "custom" ones; not sure what is wrong with it yet, need to get it out and check it out. May have to put original back in for meantime. Custom jobbie had some HF compensation, etc.

  12. #12
    HenryW
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    Drimel

    Drimel tool has always been my friend for this - try the slot cut first and you can try several of the above discussions all the way to extracting the T nut with the fine/small bits. I have sucessfully removed a T nut and replaced with a larger one in the same hole.

    Good Luck.

  13. #13
    whgeiger
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    T-Nut Replacement Steps:

    MB,

    1) Drive out T-nuts with punch and hammer from front of baffle. Do not use any method of removal the forms metal dust or chips. Theses will get lost in the acoustic lining and may find their way in to the magnetic gaps of the drivers later.

    2) Replace all t-nuts with the referenced binding nuts [1]. Note you must cut off one side of these so that they clear the enclosure cutout for the driver. After doing that, clean them thoroughly before installing them in the enclosure using three small wood screws.

    [1] Binding Nuts, McMaster-Carr Catalog
    http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/ps...nuts;153=63297

    Regards,

    WHG

  14. #14
    Dis Member mikebake's Avatar
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    Re: T-Nut Replacement Steps:

    Originally posted by whgeiger
    MB,

    1) Drive out T-nuts with punch and hammer from front of baffle. Do not use any method of removal the forms metal dust or chips. Theses will get lost in the acoustic lining and may find their way in to the magnetic gaps of the drivers later.

    2) Replace all t-nuts with the referenced binding nuts [1]. Note you must cut off one side of these so that they clear the enclosure cutout for the driver. After doing that, clean them thoroughly before installing them in the enclosure using three small wood screws.

    [1] Binding Nuts, McMaster-Carr Catalog
    http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/ps...nuts;153=63297

    Regards,

    WHG
    Hi Bill, thanks for the reply; I'm not quite sure I followed you. Use a punch and hammer and strike the screw head? ?? I know I'm dense here, but the head isn't going to go through the hole, no???

  15. #15
    whgeiger
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    'Captive Spinners'

    MB,

    So, screws are still in place and now they are ‘captive spinners’!

    Then do step (0) first.
    0) Cut off most of the head with a Dermal Tool. Periodically sweep work area with a magnet while doing this. Stabilize screw with forceps and make like a dentist. Use a carbide burr to clear out most of the head. Then go to step 1).

    Do not like T-nuts. Use the referenced [1] binding nuts instead.

    Good Luck,

    WHG

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