Here's a picture of my L36 crossover. Schematic shows 3 uF, 6 uF, and 16.5 uF. Are the two horizontal caps in this phot 3 uF each? then big one is the 16.5 uF?
Here's a picture of my L36 crossover. Schematic shows 3 uF, 6 uF, and 16.5 uF. Are the two horizontal caps in this phot 3 uF each? then big one is the 16.5 uF?
OK - think I figured it out. Those are the three caps - 3, 6, 16.5
All the wiring confused me at first. Serial number of the caps are in the schematic.
Here's one of my crossovers with the new caps. I used Daytons. 3 uF crossed over with Russian millitary grade 0.047. Two 3.0 Daytons for the 6. And 2 Dayton 8.2's for the 16.5 (16.4)
My second L36 has different L-Pads and layout. Before recapping second I did some A/B'ing in mono. The recapped speaker is smoother and less shrilly. I couldn't listen to these through my Sui 890DB for long before listener fatigue would set in. I'm thinking the recap may take care of this and is why I went with Daytons. I felt Solens may be too bright. And so far the bypass cap sounds great!
what is the value of the resistor?
where can I get a schmatic?
On my l36s for some reason the original owner thought it a good idea to remove the resistor,
Now I want to restore the l36's to their original state.
Except I'll need to buy a set of mids and tweets to complete the project.
radio shack parts just don't do jbls any justice
"I couldn't listen to these for long before listener fatigue would set in."
I rebuilt mine using Troels Gravesen's schematic. It was a huge improvement.
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No doubt...Originally Posted by sba2
It's a great way to breathe new life into perfectly good transducers.
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