Cool. Thats a good idea with the rollers. I was actually thinking of something like that, only made of metal. But my metal legs idea didnt include rollers. I was also thinking I might move the existing, basically do away with them and put banana clips on the back.
Of course, I need to purchase these things first. I am not the owner as of this minute. I'm trying to figure out if I want a project. Well, I take that back, I do want them, I just have to figure out what I want to offer for them.
i personally would advise against moving the connector plates to the rear of the units...
i can see why folks contemplate "upgrading" them, but i would keep the originals and put the new one right where the old ones were, if i was dead set on getting larger gauge interconnect into them...
just my .02
LOL, very dry. I have a pair of 19's. As to the base, you could always buy a couple of moving dollys and set them on there until you finish work on them or find their eventual resting place. I've seen these four caster dollys go for as cheap as $19.
Regarding the horn problem, Louped is probably right in his assesment, the diaphragm leads have parted. They are inside the horn motor so not visible from the exterior. I know others have soldered them but new diaphragms that come with the new style connection are a better choice, IMO.
It sounds like the OP has a real Model 19 jones, going here. If you are trying to determine a value, give a call to Great Plains Audio and ask them what the cost of new woofers and new compression drivers are. Add $250 for crossovers and $500 for the cabs. That would be the price for the build, approximately.
Jones'in is right. I am stuck on the fence. I want these speakers, but I'm not sure I'm up to the task of re-building them at this time. I made an offer but the owner turned ut down. So, it may be a dead deal.
Here is a pic of the leads that tend to fry or break from flexing. This is a new style diaphragm and the old style has an almost 90 degree bend where they always break.
You will find this under the rear cover that has the 033952 on it. Just remove the 6 screws that hold the horn in and the driver is on the end. Remove the rear cover to expose the diaphragm and be very careful around the fram as the magnet tends to yank metal screw drivers right into it.
Some guys are good enough to repair them but I think the key is if they just broke from flexing or if they got fried. They have better luck repairing broken ones then they will with overheated and fried ones.
If you send the drivers to GPA he will recharge the magnets, install new and heavier duty diaphragms and make sure they are right. Do not throw the old diaphragms away! If they are original "Light" diaphragms they will have the number 23744 on the underside edge of the voice coil. Put them either here, the Altec site mentioned above or on ebay and make it clear the leads are broken. Those with the skills will buy them.
To the best of my knowledge, the bases that you are missing are identicle to the black seperator between the two boxes. Particle board is what they should be made from but plywood or poplar will work just as well or better.
I don't like the idea of dollies or wheels but if you buy them then you are free to do as you like with your speakers.
I have new XO knobs if they are missing or messed up and the 19s are always worth fixing up and keeping them stock original.
Have fun with a great speaker.
Gary
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