I bought a Dayton 500 watt class G sub-woofer amp about three months ago. It is driving a single JBL 2241H(??) 18 inch driver in a 10 sq. ft. box.
I kept hearing small pops occassionally, but I assumed it was in the program material.
Last night I played a movie on 7.1 and the sub refused to play; the 115 volt power is on.
I hope this is not a dead amp...
I'm having a bunch of trouble with sub-powered amps lately - blown out two - each with a different receiver.
What gives?
They're cheap-o amps, that's what gives. It's the JBL 2241 telling the amp "who is who here". Use a proper pro amp on a pro driver.
Uhg - thanks!
I leave the power to the sub-amps on 24hrs. Is that a bad thing for G-style amps - electronics - besides contributing to so-called global warming?
I thought I read some where that deterioration of electronic components was, in part, a result of heat cylces - warm, cold, warm, cold, warm, cold, etc.
Is this bull?
I'm not sure what this amp really puts out; "273 watts MAX 8 ohm, 500 watts MAX 4 ohm" but there is a reason they sell it for 240.00. I wouldn't expect it to hold up when trying to give serious drivers a workout. If they did, you'd see them in pro audio settings where they'd appreciate the low price.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=300-806
Wrong amp.
Mine is Class G - 1000 watts - 4 ohms, 500 watts - 8 ohms.
Anyway, I suppose it is now ZERO watts into 8 ohms.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=300-808
I'm still gettign a driver popping noise when I switch the power on and off.
Niether componet LBL driver or amp was driven hard at any time.
What is the continuous capability of the amp?
Anyway, seriously, just go for a solid pro amp and be done with it.
Look at the QSC PLX bridgeable units on partsexpress.com, for example.
Are the QSCs better than the Crown XLSs? Do these have noisy fans? The noisy Crown fans blow.
The Dayton has a one year warranty; so you suppose this is China trash and I will have trouble in the future? The sonic qualities are good, no fan, runz ice cold.
...I got the Dayton sub amp working now....
Wow, I'm glad that is OK....
Any idea what happened?Originally Posted by robertbartsch
Bart
When faced with another JBL find, Good mech986 says
, JBL Fan mech986 says
How?
No signal to power amp....
Do what i and others have done - I have an MK Volkswoofer (which used to have a plate amp in it).
I put a blank metal plate where the plate amp used to be, and put a set of banana jacks there to feed the driver directly.
Then feed your sub with a classic power amp in bridged mono mode -
I've used an old Citation 22 - roughly 600 watts in mono.
Others have used Crown, JBL/UREI and similar amps with verified quality and specs.
You mileage may vary, but your sound will improve (grin)
2ch: WiiM Pro; Topping E30 II DAC; Oppo, Acurus RL-11, Acurus A200, JBL Dynamics Project - Offline: L212-TwinStack, VonSchweikert VR-4
7: TIVO, Oppo BDP103D, B&K, 2pr UREI 809A, TF600, JBL B460
You mileage may vary, but your sound will improve (grin)
AMEN!!
One step above: "Two Tin Cans and a String!"
Longtime Alaskan Low-Fi Guy - E=MCē ą3db
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