HELP! L-65 Jubal (not A or B) Push Posts

[wallstdrifter]

My L-65 Jubals (first version, not A or B,) has tiny push-button speaker wire connectors. It doesn't accept the triple core wire speaker cable I like and I hate to downgrade to smaller. What are you guys doing for this?

[Rolf]

You've eased alot of pain. What cables do you like? I have a HK 16A / HK 17 amp/pre-amp.

My advice is to use a good cable. That goes for all kind of speakers. What is good? Use your ears. Make the dealer give you a couple from different brands to take home. Listen and make your choice. The most expensive ones is not necessary the best. You should be able to keep them for 2 weeks at least to make your choice.

[coherent_guy]

Your L65's will take a bit more care than some other JBLs, as the binding posts are mounted directly on the X-over network board, not as easy to replace as those that have wires running from the inputs to the X-over. They have "standoffs" bolted to the push-posts so you need a thin sized bolt on the rear of the binding post. You will need to examine this by removing the woofer and it then will hopefully make sense, although things are a bit crowded at that point on the network board. The network is simple overall. I don't know what Seawolf is recommending, but here is the link to the PE binding post page:

http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage....ctGroup_ID=107

I had to ream out the hole on the standoff to get the posts I used in a repair on L65's to fit. I am reluctant to say which post will work perfectly, as I don't have examples of them all to check.

Regarding cables, that is a subject that is not regarded as worthy of discussion by many on this forum, and I had a bad experience when attempting to do so. My advice is, don't bother trying.

Good luck with your repair, I do suggest you carefully remove the woofer and see what you are working with. The construction is a bit odd, but the right part will fit. Otherwise you can fashion a jumper wire from a more robust binding posts to the terminals on the standoff, but soldering skills are required.

[wallstdrifter]

Yes, I agree with your post. The crossover board is very crowded and the back screws of the binding posts are behind fixed components.

Would be nice to hear several more views from L 65 owners on this speaker post problem and what they have actually done with theirs.

[wallstdrifter]

To the right and left of the yellow component are the buss posts. The push pin screw anchors are at the two ends of the large yellow component bridging the buss bars. I guess a technician needs to remove the components blocking the post anchor screws, and re-install some high end binding posts, then put it all back together.


What else have the viewers of the mssg board done to deal with these outdated push pin posts? Does anyone find them acceptable as is?

[coherent_guy]

... your pics are not displaying so it is impossible to see the configuration of your X-over, there being multiple versions of it as we know. Try posting them again and perhaps some advice can be given.

Are you concerned with preserving your L65s in stock form, or would you modify them for this repair? Knowing that would help in suggesting a fix. Also, are you a DIY type of person?

If you are looking for a standard, well known simple fix for this problem, it does not exist. Each speaker has different construction and needs to be treated accordingly.

Personally, I dislike the push terminals as they are good only with about 16 gauge bare wire at most. I described my fix in an earlier post. That was a repair to a friends speaker, but was not up to my standards of quality, which would be a modification to the standard configuration.

So try the pics again, are you willing to modify or not, and can you do the work?

[Fangio]

Unfortunately your pics are not displaying so ... try posting them again and

read this before: http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=817

[wallstdrifter]

Help Was my new attempt to post a picture successful?

Thanks .

[wallstdrifter]

[hjames]

Help Was my new attempt to post a picture successful?

Thanks .

No - you have some kinda gobble-de-goop code that isn't gonna cut it ...


http://adobe.kodakgallery.com/PhotoV...vfolderid=2008

Just upload the image here and stop trying to point to some other website's photo gallery.

Your gooble-de-goop code was just a link to an image gallery, I clicked the link saved the phot there to my desktop, opened the Lansing website "load attachment" tool, browsed my computer to the image on the desktop, uyploaded it, and voila - here it is.

Can't see much pushpin action tho ...

[coherent_guy]

... the push connector can be seen. Specifically, the philips head screw that attaches it to the standoff/X-over can be seen, a perfect view of that. Given this is what you are working with, this is just as I described in an earlier post in this thread...

The foot or support bracket of the standoff, which is part of one of the lugs on the standoff, has a hole in it which the screw for the push connector passes through and provides the electrical connection to the X-over. Loosen that screw to remove the push connector, it is done the same way on both + and -.

I used this binding post:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=091-340

BUT I HAD TO ENLARGEN the hole on the standoff and the mounting plate on the back of the speakers to get it to fit. I then tightened the provided nut on the binding post. That's it.

I can imagine many other ways of adding new binding posts, such as using jumper wires soldered to the terminals on the standoffs the push connector was attached to, from new binding posts. My friend wanted a quick fix which is what I did. I now own those speakers

Not much more I can add, any questions? Thanks for the pic, Heather.

[wallstdrifter]

I'm still on the learning curve with the photo transfers.

In the photo you'll see a right and left bus post with a yellow component straddling the two. The phillips head screw the the anchor for the binding post.

I want to modify, I will take these speakers to the grave.

I also want to modify my pots, they are an unpredictable source of distortion
I considering bypassing them.

That's two modifications considered and I invite any and all responses from the board.



P.S. I just learned that preview post is imperative for posting graphics.

[wallstdrifter]

This is another view of the phillips head screw anchor to the push pin posts, the other phillips head screw is hidden by the yellow component, I guess I have to unscrew the one side, bend everything back to get at the other screw, then replace with modern bolt down binding posts.

Any thoughts out there on by-passing the pots? They are a source of unpredictable mild to strong distortion and at their age I think they should be pulled like bad molars. Can I simply jump them, if so, how?

Thanks in advance

[hjames]

If it were me, I'd make a new rear panel from some thin stock (birch ply or some such) and drill and mount a set of 5-way jacks to that, then solder a reasonably thick line to the lugs on the inside connector of the 5 ways, and wire that to your crossover assembly. Maybe glue a block of wood to the inside of the cabinet and screw your crossover to that. I mean, it doesn't HAVE to be mounted to the inside of the rear panel, right?

[wallstdrifter]

Add a new pr of pots to your birch board and WOW!


tp://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=260-240

quote=hjames;216290]If it were me, I'd make a new rear panel from some thin stock (birch ply or some such) and drill and mount a set of 5-way jacks to that, then solder a reasonably thick line to the lugs on the inside connector of the 5 ways, and wire that to your crossover assembly. Maybe glue a block of wood to the inside of the cabinet and screw your crossover to that. I mean, it doesn't HAVE to be mounted to the inside of the rear panel, right?[/quote]