2215A's, not mine, received as is with a cry for help today
2215A's, not mine, received as is with a cry for help today
What is the white "surround" stuff made of?
Looks like a fun refoam or recone project!
Scotty.
One step above: "Two Tin Cans and a String!"
Longtime Alaskan Low-Fi Guy - E=MC² ±3db
Noodles, I think.Originally Posted by SMKSoundPro
je
Kinda looks like sections of rope caulk but that should be easy to bend around into a circular pattern instead of having to cut and paste sections like that.
It never ceases to amaze what people will do to avoid a proper refoam.
Bart
When faced with another JBL find, Good mech986 says
, JBL Fan mech986 says
Yes rope caulk that is, soft foam for windows/doors. And tons of glue on the frames under it, nice weekend job to get down to the metal there again. The other one's isn't cut in pieces and painted black on the front.
Are there still 2215 cone kits available? According to the Cone Kit Interchangeability chart these are unique and won't take 2235H kits.
Tampons.
I found this:
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...ead.php?t=5309
Hope this helps!
Scotty.
One step above: "Two Tin Cans and a String!"
Longtime Alaskan Low-Fi Guy - E=MC² ±3db
LOL I don’t know I think its someone’s attempt of humour, it looks like some form of sticky blutack!Noodles, I think.
je
LOL well one things for sure, it isn’t flipping condom stretched around the JBL!Tampons.
I LOL think someone should report this clown to the police for cruelty to JBL. Tampons, be buggered.
$180 MSRP on the current transducer parts list....
Hmm, ok thanks Zilch. Can imagine very well now what these will cost in euros from Harman here.. the budget to bring these back to life is limited for now. I passed that info along and we will keep that in mind, as a last resort.
From what I understand 2215A / H's are the pro equivalents to LE15A / H's. Fortunately the 15" refoam kits are a bit more versatile. I carefully checked the condition and this pair is in decent shape: not used for the last 15 years, were stored upright in cabinets, very nice dark original cones, no vc rubbing, spiders are pretty straight not sagging.
So at first a rescue attempt is in order. Step 1 is done, frames and cone backs also had the old foam and cleaned nicely. The most challenging part is to remove as much of the glue residue from the front edges as possible to achieve a better, or bearable look. It's rock hard and will need to be softened by something really agressive, but w/o attacking the cone edge itself too much (cardboard..). Simple goo gone or a hairdryer won't suffice in this case. Pure acetone, other fluids, a heat gun or solder iron? I'm curious with what the experts here have achieved the best results. Thanks
Yup.
Well I've found out and finally got around to finish these. Would say at least presentable again..
before/after
Outstanding job!
John
What finally worked for you in removing the foam from the cone edges ??
(always wondered if nail polish remover would work)
Some kind of happiness is measured out in miles
Tom you have pm.
I recalled reading on this forum that MEK is the stuff to use so I've just tried MEK(celulose thinners) on some scrap pieces and so long as you remove most of the foam carefully first, it does a good job of softening the remainder so you can rub it off to leave relatively clean cone surface behind.Logic would dictate you shouldn't use it on Aquaplased cones though.
The fumes however are so strong that there's now a 10 ft tall pink elephant sitting on my power amps.
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