2405H Refinishing

[bert58]

Hi everyone:

I bought a pair of 2405h slot tweeters. They show nicks and scuffs in the paint. What's the best way to re-finish the front faces and get as close as possible original factory looks? Thanks

[scott fitlin]

The slot and horn flare itself come apart.

There are two secrws on the front face of the slot that secure it to the nagnitic structure.

IF you need to take the phase plug out as well ( the black triangular block inside the slots mouth ) youll have to take the horn flare off first, then remeove the foilcal on the back of the dtiver to access the screw the holds the phase plug in place.

Once you have the slots horn and phase plug assembly apart, you can paint them yourself IF you have spray equipment, OR take them to someone who does airbrusihing, or spraying, use a nice high quality paint, you can even go beyond what JBL did, and use a fancier custom auto refinish product. OR, you can have them powder coated. whoever does the work wiill need to prep the damamged aliminum parts, sanding, cleaning, priming, then paint, and POSSIBLY a clear coat.

I might tend to lean towards having them really nicely painted, make a deal with obne of your local auto painting places, as if you put these in a home install and they are visible you would want them to look sharp.

Powder coating is the most durable finish, for commercial use I would do this.

[Mr. Widget]

The slot and horn flare itself come apart.

They do, but taking out the center wedge requires first removing the outer horn and then removing the rear label which will reduce their value, but more importantly, unless you are very careful you will likely damage the diaphragm and may not be able to once again center it. There are no guide pins for the ring radiators. To remove the outer horn is straight forward and easy enough though.


Widget

[edgewound]

Later models are powder coated, but...

Removing the label is not a big deal. Use a heat gun to soften the adhesive and carefully pry off the label with a thin blade putty knife, careful to not fold or wrinkle the foilcal.

Unscrew the front horn and separate. Unscrew the phase plug screw underneath the foilcal. The diaphragm is centered by a relief in the topplate, so if you don't disturb it you should be fine.

Use a paint stripper from your local paint/hardware store. Scrub off the remaining paint remnants with 0000 steel wool. Clean well with acetone.

Use primer on the horn for a nice smooth finish.

Then spray with matte black Krylon...light coats..two or three.

Might cost 20 bucks and your time. If you mess it up, send it to me.

[Mr. Widget]

Then spray with matte black Krylon...light coats..two or three.

Might cost 20 bucks and your time. If you mess it up, send it to me.

I also endorse the Krylon and that last line especially.


Widget

[allen mueller]

I've had good luck with Rustoleum satin black as a good color match.

I use a dual action palm sander and some fine 220 grit papper makes quick work of taking off the old finish. Make shure you wear good mask, aluminum dust isn't something you want to be breathing.

Allen

[subwoof]

Instead of steel wool use the 3M color-coded abrasive pads. Green works well. Leave as much of the original finish on as possible so you don't have to re-primer.

For deep scratches on the horn, use a piece of sandpaper (220 or finer ) glued to a scrap plywood and sand in successive straight motions until the scratch is gone. This method also restores the finish to 2403 faces.

Paint stripper WILL loosen the horn wedges and they will fall out. Remember the mike caldwell horn pictures??

sub

[scott fitlin]

They do, but taking out the center wedge requires first removing the outer horn and then removing the rear label which will reduce their value, but more importantly, unless you are very careful you will likely damage the diaphragm and may not be able to once again center it. There are no guide pins for the ring radiators. To remove the outer horn is straight forward and easy enough though.


Widget

but, if you want to refinish them, YOU have to take the phase plug off as well.

I have done this, without damaging the diaphragm, BUT, I warn people it is a FRAGILE and CRITICAL piece, one slip, u need a NEW phragm.

IF I were refinishing the slot, I would want the Phase plug and horn flare to be an EXACT match in color tonality.

IF I WERE refinishing, I
and they were for home use, I wouldn't do the exact matte finish JBL did. I would use Dupont hot Hues, or House Of KOLORS custom automotive refinish paints, black, 3 stage paint, and many clear coats and make a TOTALLY DESIGNER and KILLER CUSTOM BLACK SLOT TWEETER.

Just what I would do, no one has to agree with everything I think.

[edgewound]

IF I WERE refinishing, I
and they were for home use, I wouldn't do the exact matte finish JBL did. I would use Dupont hot Hues, or House Of KOLORS custom automotive refinish paints, black, 3 stage paint, and many clear coats and make a TOTALLY DESIGNER and KILLER CUSTOM BLACK SLOT TWEETER.

Sounds like a case of "pimp my slot".

As far as using Scotchbrite pads vs. steelwool...if the magnet is separated from the horn there is no worries about magnetic attraction because you're gonna keep the magnet way away from any debris from the horn cleaning.

If the aim is to make these look like new again, you need to strip all the old finish off and re-primer so you end up with a smooth, scratch and blemish free new finish.

This really isn't rocket science. You disassemble carefully, strip, clean, primer and paint, dry for a day or two...reassemble....listen...admire.

[scott fitlin]

When you see the pics of my newly repainted bumper cars, PIMP they ain't, class they have. The true blue pearl, Candy Apple red, and Irridescent Posie purple is vibrant, lit up, but not garish like a 1960,s or 70,s cheesey, tacky metal flake was.

I do have this one car, we got in 1982, soli,s pantera model, we only have one, and in Low Rider magazine, I saw a guy with his restored 1970 Buick Riviera, and he painted it Candy Pearl Hot Pink, with White accenting, and I am doing the Pantera in this color, with snow white accenting, OK thats pimp, BLING BLAU!

I am partial to blues, and I think the slot would look good like this. Jus my opinion.

The only thing I just don't agree with, is using spray paints from a consumer store can iof spray paint. The ONLY way to really get TOP FLIGHT RESULTS is with a GOOD spray gun, or airbrush. Granted, most of what makes the difference between an OK paint job, and a GREAT paint job is in the prep, but, then, even at this point, you may as well use better prep products than just scotchbrite. Dupont, and SEM offer cleaning agents to use once the surface has been stripped, to remove any contaminants and leave a completely clean surface ready to be primed, and well, just like a car, the slot is metal, and proper prep does make a big difference.

BTW, I passed NYC Inspection with flying col,ors, and NOW I am past my grueling winter work, OH what a relief, I bought a digital cam, I am goin g to post pics of the place, my system, my shop, etc.

I opened up today, 1st day and went well.




Oh, now I have to redo lightshow, DAYUM, my work never ends!

[scott fitlin]

Hi everyone:

I bought a pair of 2405h slot tweeters. They show nicks and scuffs in the paint. What's the best way to re-finish the front faces and get as close as possible original factory looks? Thanks

IF YOU want that factory finish, that is a matte finish, I think you will have to have them painted professionaly. Unless you have spray guns and compressors, etc.

Take them apart, be careful when removing the phase plugs, so as NOT to damage the fragile diaphragms.