I measured mine at 140L.
I think the L300 is also 140L, albeit a little deeper :
http://lansingheritage.org/images/jb...l300/page3.jpg
I measured mine at 140L.
I think the L300 is also 140L, albeit a little deeper :
http://lansingheritage.org/images/jb...l300/page3.jpg
The L200 baffleboard is about 22" x 28" and I assume that the L300 is similar. Whereas the L200 recesses the components such that they all sit behind the grill (including the slant plate, the L300 adds about 3" of depth at the baffleboard requiring that the grill have a stand-off frame. You could take an L200 and move the baffleboard out 3" (has been done by someone on this forum), but the dog house bump is far simpler and for me at least, more sturdy.
22" x 28" x 3" =~1,848 cubic inches =~1.07 cubic feet larger. Of course the extra horn length and tweeter take up some of this additional volume, so figure ~1 cu ft larger.
Of course, this assumes that the L200 and L300 are the same height and width. L200 is ~5 cu ft so L300 should be ~6 cu ft.
On a jobsite but need to reply. You CANNOT use a simple jigsaw to cut the hole if you want an even 1/8 clearance because the hole is ANGLED...you need to think in three dimensions here.
The sides of a jigsaw cut are right angled to the surface it rides on. The hole I added is required to be angled at every part of the hole.
The extra cabinet does not rattle. It does not add ANY additional volume to the cabinet since the 1/8 gap is sealed. I do not use particle board for any project for any reason. The plywood is veneer core hardwood.
sub
If I make the hole in the cabinet 6-1/4" diameter square, there would be plenty of clearance such that the angle becomes moot. (Its moot anyway due to the extra clearance of the LE175s, but I always look to the future.) The frame has a 5-7/8" ID, but an 8-7/8" OD so would easily cover a 6-1/4" hole.
Plus, because the hole is bigger than the horn flange, I can install it from the rear. (I could do this with even a smaller square hole because I could angle it in on the diagonol.)
I really don't see a need to seal the gap as I used 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" to make the frame and a 5/8" thick high density fiberboard back plate and this chamber will be sealed to the cabinet through close tolarance/gasket. The added volume is insignificant. The LE175 isn't so heavy such that it needs a cradle, and if I replaced it with an LE85 and if it did, its a simple matter of putting a shim/shelf on the back plate. And, this saves me buying a big hole saw that I would only use twice.
Right?
In the immortal words of buckwheat: Otay...
I was looking for minimal impact and wanted to keep the original size drivers.
sub
In the immortal words of buckwheat: Otay...
You forgot Spanky
Rob
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)