Refoam Advice in NJ

[Robh3606]

One thing you need to remember is the x-max on these drivers. The coil alignment won't tolerate as much tilt as you could get away with on a lower excursion driver. Take your time and definately use the tone.

Rob

[brad347]

I'm sure the kit instructions will make it all clear, but how loud do you play the 30Hz tone during centering and drying?

[bigyank]

I'm sure the kit instructions will make it all clear, but how loud do you play the 30Hz tone during centering and drying?

Do NOT play the tone loudly or problems will occur, guaranteed. What you want to do is induce a small amount of movement so you can listen for the voice coil rub. I use a CD player and a small integrated amp when I redo surrounds. Remember that gravity is your friend here and the best advice I can give is to read the read previously posted link (more than once ) and to take your time. I use clothes pins to attach the surround to the frame and aid in ensuring the cone is centered if needed. Good luck and post pics.

Yank

[grumpy]

IIRC (no guarantee), Rick's instructions talk about the 30Hz tone...
(i.e., where to set the volume knob to approach a suggested displacement
at various stages in the process).

[boputnam]

I'm sure the kit instructions will make it all clear, but how loud do you play the 30Hz tone during centering and drying?

The instructions are quite clear, and slow paced. Do it in steps.

And, review this thread, again: Resurround Step-by-Step

Once cleaned, and both the frame (basket) and the cone are prepared, you will glue the surround to the back (in this case) of the cone. Try a dry fit first, and get accustomed to what it will all feel like before you do it with glue.

1. Glue the surround to the cone. Beneath the cone edge, apply an even glue bead to the surround's innermost edge, working slowly around the entirety. Gently join the cone with the surround. A bit of glue might ease out - this is water soluble for a while so don't freak - you can dab it with a teeny paint brush to remove (keep a water dish and paper towels handy). The glue will shink a bit and dries clear, so don't worry about a little bead around the edge of the cone.

Heat lamps are excellent aids in this - they keep the temp right and can speed-up the curing. Not too hot. Let this dry for +2-hrs, or until the glue is clear.

2. Glue the surround to the frame (basket). First, connect the binding posts to a speaker output from your stereo - be careful to not let the +/- touch. Play the 30Hz test tone at low volume - listen to the flutter of the cone. Very gently push the cone off center and you will hear the painful rasping of the voice coil scraping the sides of the gap. Not a good sound, huh? That is what you want to avoid.

The cone should not flutter more than 1/4" - 1/8" is plenty.

Apply an even glue bead to the frame - poking the nipple of the glue container between the surround and frame, work slowly around the frame. Let the surround settle onto the frame and it should mostly center itself. If you hear rasping, you need to push/pull on the surround/frame join to gently recenter the surround. Keep the heat lamps on, keep the test tone playing and stand at attention for the 20-minutes it takes the glue to set. Do not leave!

Do only one speaker at a time.

[brad347]

I have read that thread over many times, thanks again.

Thanks also for the step-by-step recap.

They didn't come today-- probably tomorrow.

I went and bought several small clippy/clampy things from my local mom-n-pop hardware store. I've been doing a lot of reading online and I saw in many places where it was suggested to use clothespins or similar to clamp the gasket on top of the surround edge while drying.

[boputnam]

I went and bought several small clippy/clampy things from my local mom-n-pop hardware store. I've been doing a lot of reading online and I saw in many places where it was suggested to use clothespins or similar to clamp the gasket on top of the surround edge while drying.

IMO, that is a really bad idea. I've done dozens of these - many brands, many sizes - and the last thing that would work is to try and secure the surround while it is drying.

I've only had a few that proved difficult - the 116H can be a real trouble - but if you stay with the project while the glue cures, you are good. The 30Hz tone serves to help the assembly center itself. Trouble is, to hear properly, you cannot have any music/radio playing - so it gets a bit boring. But, you need to listen carefully for the obvious rubbing sound (as compared to the flutter which is OK), and massage the assembly into center.

No clamps, no clips. 2¢

[brad347]

no clamping-- check.

Thanks for the heads-up.

Hopefully I'll be able to get cracking on these tomorrow.