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Thread: Router bit question for the woodworkers

  1. #16
    Senior Member richluvsound's Avatar
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    nice!

    Hi gary,

    I like that quick - fit. Mine is made out 10 mm ply and could get retired for one of those. How much $$$$$ and would you be willing to ship one to me ?

    Is that a PortaCable I spy ?

    Rich

  2. #17
    scorpio
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    Quote Originally Posted by richluvsound View Post
    Scorpio,

    if that that 6mm shank snaps while in use !!!!!!
    I have seen it happen . We had to pull the broken end out of the wall with a pair off pliers. Jeez, imagine that it had hit flesh

    I dont want to be a nagging wife, but it will only cost you 20 or 30 euro to hire one for a weekend . The bonus being , your work will look more professional.

    Rich,
    Yes, that's been worrying me a lot, I use a face shield when I work with this, but no clue if it would stand a broken shaft.
    You guys get me worried, maybe I should get the ol' file and elbow grease out of the closet....

    Time to look for a grown up tool it seems,

  3. #18
    Gary L
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    Yea Rich, PC router and quick lift went for right around $400 off EPAY.

    The Ryobi BT 3000 saw was around another $400 and is a surprisingly accurate light duty work station.

    I can move it around the shop by myself for just about any speaker project I want to build and never have to worry about horse power until I get into solid oaks and ash over 1.5" thick which is pretty rare.

    I also have a Bosch 3.5 Plunge router with a Circle jig I got from Parts Express that is the cats MEOW for building speakers.



    Gary

  4. #19
    Senior Member richluvsound's Avatar
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    Try this !

    Hi Scorpio,

    this is the type of cutter I would use for your task.
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  5. #20
    scorpio
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    How do you make the cut then, do youplace the template on the bottom, the piece to be cut on top of it and then cut from above? I'm doing it in two passes as the cutter bits I have are not long enough, considering they are only 6mm shafts. That's the reason for me doing the first cut with the other type of cutter, with the bearing on the shaft, not on the top.

    I'm looking around for a 1/2" router right now before trying further, if only for added safety.

    Thanks,

  6. #21
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Top or bottom

    Either way it does not matter the bearing follows the template. I reckon you are just going too hard at it. I would not expect to take more than 2mm / 1/16" at a pass in seasoned ash. I think you are toasting stuff, resins in the wood, the lube in the bearing etc. when the tool gets good and hot the lube will dry out hence the stick and then it spins on the template toasting it too.
    Take a little at a time. Please post pics of your workpiece and template.

  7. #22
    Senior Member richluvsound's Avatar
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    CMT.

    http://www.axminster.co.uk/src/froog...ter-554582.htm

    This is the best router for the money. CMT used to build the ELU I have and then Dewalt bought ELU the get rid of their cordless drill and turned around
    and put that chunk off disposable crap they call a cordless.

    You mount the template on top.
    I have seen the curved boxes you made. Your skills deserve the correct tools.

    I would suggest a book on Jigs for routers. I have one

    Rich

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