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Thread: Westlake TM1/TM3 clones

  1. #1
    Senior Member cooky1257's Avatar
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    Westlake TM1/TM3 clones

    Hi all,
    I'm a noob on here and having searched high and low without finding exactly what I need thought it time to ask.
    http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...ad.php?t=19137
    I recently picked up these of eBay, they sound great, have some nice Clash and Smiths history but are in need of some TLC;
    4x2231a, 2 x2440, 2x2397's, 2x2405's, 2 x3105 xovers and a 5234 active xover.
    Not bad for $700.
    The cabs need some lovin if I'm to be allowed to keep them(WAF).
    I intend to replace and/or double up the front baffle with some nice grained 'finished' plywood and utility satin dark grey the rest.
    My main question is regarding the driver layout, in the TM1 and TM3 the UHF is much closer to the mid horn and this is an ideal opportunity to reposition things if it would be beneficial.
    Could any forum members give me the benefit of their experience in this regard?
    As a confirmed big Tannoy user since a lad I'm quite enjoying my move over to the dark side;-)
    Thanks
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  2. #2
    Dang. Amateur speakerdave's Avatar
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    If it were I, I would not try to improve on Westlakes's system compromises--driver selection, crossover point, baffle layout--unless I had identified some specific aural problem and could pinpoint its source. That is, if it ain't broke . . . .

    Nice score--Great Score! I wouldn't mess with revising or strengthening the baffle board. You've got a monster monitor there that will really put out the sound, made by people who knew what they were doing. Make 'em pretty, if you must, and hook 'em up.

    Also, I've had no dealings with Westlake, but again, if it were I, since it's a small company that cares about its work, I'd contact Westlake and tell them what you've got there; tell them what you have in mind, and ask them if they have any advice or information about that specific speaker they could share with you. (But don't plague them with a lot of worry and elementary questions.)

    Have fun!

    David

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    Dave,

    I think the question the owner is asking is - if he's prepared to redo the front baffles, should he try to get the drivers closer as Westlake have actually done - these are clones.

  4. #4
    Senior Member cooky1257's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andyoz View Post
    Dave,

    I think the question the owner is asking is - if he's prepared to redo the front baffles, should he try to get the drivers closer as Westlake have actually done - these are clones.
    Thanks Dave , Andy,
    I 'have' to redo the baffles or they're out of the house and so wondered as these aren't exact Westlake copies would they benefit from the closer arrangement of drivers as in the TM1 or TM3's or any other JBL 3 way that's used this combo of units.
    Thanks
    Frank

  5. #5
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Welcome To The Lansing Heritage Forum!

    Quote Originally Posted by cooky1257 View Post
    I intend to replace and/or double up the front baffle with some nice grained 'finished' plywood and utility satin dark grey the rest.
    Sounds like a smart way to do a quick fix without too much effort. I am not sure what sort of thing is available in the UK, but here we have a limited selection of pre-finished sheets of plywood. I see no harm in sticking a sheet of 18mm stock over the existing baffle. For the woofers a simple rough cut followed by a flush trimming router should bang them out, for the 2405 you will need to make a larger hole in the original baffle so that the 2405 can be mounted directly to the new baffle. As for the 2397... that'll be a little tricky. Are you handy with a saber saw? I guess I'd build a jig and use a flush trim bit on a router for that as well, and then file the corners.

    Quote Originally Posted by cooky1257 View Post
    My main question is regarding the driver layout, in the TM1 and TM3 the UHF is much closer to the mid horn and this is an ideal opportunity to reposition things if it would be beneficial.
    I would stick with the layout that you already have. The 2405 has a wide dispersion and if it was any closer to the 2397 you would get more reflections from the high frequencies bouncing from the underside of the horn.

    Quote Originally Posted by cooky1257 View Post
    As a confirmed big Tannoy user since a lad I'm quite enjoying my move over to the dark side;-)
    So you have fired them up and are happy with the sound?



    Widget

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Widget View Post
    The 2405 has a wide dispersion and if it was any closer to the 2397 you would get more reflections from the high frequencies bouncing from the underside of the horn.
    That's exactly what I was thinking. I never understood that "compromise" with the original Westlake monitors?

    p.s. may be worth dropping Richluvsound a line as he can get's all sorts of lovely pre-finished sheets - may also some hints regarding remounting the 2405 (he's a busy boy ATM though!).

  7. #7
    Senior Member John W's Avatar
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    What's showing in the picture between the 2397 and 2405?
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    That was my first question...it's just Velcro

  9. #9
    Senior Member John W's Avatar
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    Oh well, it looked like another slot from here.

    How hard would it be to pull the 2405 and plug the hole?
    Since it looks like the 3105 crossover is right on the front, you could hook the tweeter externally and try moving it around a little and listen for changes.

  10. #10
    Senior Member cooky1257's Avatar
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    Cabs are all stripped down now so can't experiment.

    Mr Widget;
    Unfortunately I could only hook em up individually but I was pleasantly surprised and impressed with the sound, huge-bigger than my 215's and more dynamic-I'm preaching to the choir here I know but that 2397/2440 is the most un-hornlike horn I've ever come across, I particularly liked the bass units, the bottom end was tunefull, deep and articulate.
    I put them on the end of some powerful MC2 amplification and I couldn't detect anything you could class as 'tired' about the sound, just effortless.
    I've already bought and had cut some 18mm brazilian hardwood ply.
    If I glue it over the existing baffle it'll bring it to 43mm thick, this will of course alter the port tuning so I've got to adjust for that.
    What I don't see often here is the drivers rebated into the baffles, just clamped rear mounting seems the way to go.
    Frank

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    Quote Originally Posted by cooky1257 View Post
    I've already bought and had cut some 18mm brazilian hardwood ply.
    If I glue it over the existing baffle it'll bring it to 43mm thick, this will of course alter the port tuning so I've got to adjust for that.
    What I don't see often here is the drivers rebated into the baffles, just clamped rear mounting seems the way to go.
    Frank
    Hello Cooky,

    Congratulations on a great buy. As for redoing the front baffle, you could use veneer or very thin ply (2mm). Of course a thick front baffle is a good thing too, but you could always add bracing to the back of the front baffle via the 2 "manholes" and/or removable back . This would be a far easier quick fix to get them up and going and into the house.
    Have Fun - >>> Nessun Dorma - 12 years old <<<
    Best, Joe Alesi

  12. #12
    Senior Member cooky1257's Avatar
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    Ok thanks guys, so I'll keep the existing layout and post some picks when I'm done.
    Frank
    PS One day I plan to build some Westlake/2397 hybrid solid wood horns too.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooky1257 View Post
    PS One day I plan to build some Westlake/2397 hybrid solid wood horns too.
    Yes that is a definite agenda item here too.
    Have Fun - >>> Nessun Dorma - 12 years old <<<
    Best, Joe Alesi

  14. #14
    Senior Member richluvsound's Avatar
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    welcome

    Another brit bites the saw dust If you need a 5235 crossover PM me

    Rich

  15. #15
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    Rich,

    Cooky's might be the only big UK based JBL monitors I get to listen to when you go to Germany - don't go.

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