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Thread: Need wood-finish advice

  1. #1
    Senior Member Jakob's Avatar
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    Need wood-finish advice

    Hi all!

    Just got my cabinets from the carpenter. He made a good job but somehow the colour isn't what I expected. I wanted the same walnut finish as my old L150's but these are more greyish. Is there any way I can get more of the dark brown shine of my old JBL's or is it impossible to "tune" a veneer.
    The cabinets are waxed, not oiled.


    I'll try to post pictures of them.


    Thanks for any help,
    BR: Jakob

  2. #2
    Senior Member Jakob's Avatar
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    here it is, my grey walnut :

    The flash makes it look really bad. In fact the grain is beautiful and stand out more in real life, but the colour is still grey and lifeless. Could removing the wax and apply linseed oil be a step in the right direction?
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  3. #3
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    DO Nothing

    This time next year they will be the colour you want . Age adds colour

  4. #4
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jakob View Post
    I wanted the same walnut finish as my old L150's but these are more greyish. Is there any way I can get more of the dark brown shine of my old JBL's or is it impossible to "tune" a veneer.
    It isn't difficult at all... most walnut cabinets including JBLs are typically stained a warm brown color.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jakob View Post
    The cabinets are waxed, not oiled.
    Unfortunately you will have to strip all of the wax before staining is possible. This may be quite difficult. Ideally you stain veneered furniture/speakers before putting any oil or wax on it.


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  5. #5
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by macaroonie View Post
    This time next year they will be the colour you want . Age adds colour
    Maybe... in this case, really I hope so as stripping the wax could be quite a project.


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  6. #6
    Senior Member Jakob's Avatar
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    Thank you guys for your quick replys!
    It sounds comforting that staining is possible. How do I do to remove the wax and why is it difficult?
    I guess, if you don't succeed in getting all the wax off, you will get spots of unstained veneer, right?

    And, if I succeed, whats the process of staining.

    Hrmm, with my next drawing to the carpenter I will include a note: wax belongs in your ears, not on my cabinets!

  7. #7
    Senior Member SMKSoundPro's Avatar
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    I recall that Naptha will cut the wax. Wipe on liberally. Let dry for a couple of days.
    If need be, sand with 320 or 400 grit paper.

    When ready, apply medium or dark walnut watco oil. Follow directions on can. Be very careful when disposing of oil soaked rags.

    We even use 400 grit sandpaper and handsand the oil into the pores of the walnut. Let dry for a couple of days. Vent the room very well. It will stink a bit!

    After time and normal exposure, reapply light coats of oil every few months as the wood tone changes to the color you desire.

    If you choose to, then try watco finishing wax and hand rub that in to a glorious finish. It reminds me of a french polishing technique.

    All in all, great job on the cabinets!

    SO...how do they sound?

    Scotty.
    One step above: "Two Tin Cans and a String!"
    Longtime Alaskan Low-Fi Guy - E=MC² ±3db

  8. #8
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jakob View Post
    Hrmm, with my next drawing to the carpenter I will include a note: wax belongs in your ears, not on my cabinets!
    Many woodworkers like to use wax, unfortunately it must be your last step... I rarely use it because I may want to re-oil or touch up the cabinet in some other way.

    Yes, you are correct. If you can not get all of the wax off... including down in the grain, you will have an uneven looking stain job. There are several wax strippers available. You should talk with a professional refinisher in your area. They will know the best method using what is readily available where you are.

    As for the staining, there are many types. For walnut I usually use pigmented stains that are in an oil base, but with whatever type you get, you should follow the directions that come with the stain. Don't be afraid to mix a couple of colors to achieve the look you want. Also, get some sample veneer from your cabinetmaker... preferably also waxed. You can experiment on both the wax removal and on the staining.


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  9. #9
    jcdahl
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    Oiled Walnut color

    Hi Jakob;
    Here are a couple of SUB1500 enclosures that I built. Also a view of one of my Paragons that I re-veneered under a different color of light. They are the same color under the same light. The color is a warm redish brown. Not the typical grey tone of walnut with just oil on it. Is this the color you are looking for? If so, I can tell you how to achieve it.

    Regards,
    John
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  10. #10
    Senior Member Jakob's Avatar
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    [quote=SMKSoundPro;193980]All in all, great job on the cabinets!

    SO...how do they sound?

    I'm very satisfied with the woodwork. The guy who did the cabinets has his own firm since 40 years and build anything you want, but mostly furniture.

    Regarding how they sound, I've decided not to load them with drivers until they are in the colour I want. For now the 250ti's are the lead singers in the livingroom, and thats not too bad!!!


    jcdahl: You are more than welcome to describe how You got that colour on the cabinets, what beauties, and the Paragon looks astonishing

    Tomorrow I will call some experts in the neighbourhood to get more info on what products we have available here in old Sweden. Thank you all for showing me the right direction!

    BR: Jakob

  11. #11
    jcdahl
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    My Finishing for walnut

    Hi Jakob;

    I start out with the bare walnut veneer. I don't know how it might work if you have already a finish on the wood.

    I sand with the grain using first 160 grit sandpaper, then 220 grit, then 400 grit, and last 800 grit. in that sequence. Then I use steel wool to polish the dry surface. Use a vaccum cleaner or air hose to get rid of the sand paper and steel wool residue. You can lightly rub the surface with a "tack" cloth to ensure that it is clean.

    Then I apply the Watco "danish" Oil stain finish. (I don't know if the Danes will let the Swedes have their oil) Using the Dark Walnut color. Follow the directions on the container. Let it soak for about an hour and then wipe it off. Then let it dry for about one day. Then use the steel wool to again polish the finish and clean off any steel wool residue. Next apply the Cherry color Watco oil. Follow the directions on the container. Let is soak for about 4 to 6 hours, then wipe it off. Finish the job again with the steel wool. Don't put any wax on it for about a month. If you want more red color, use another coat (after resting for one month)of the cherry color stain.

    You don't need to wax it until it has stabilized for about a month.

    I have found that this technique makes a wonderfull warm walnut color.

    Good luck!!
    John

    Here is another picture:

    here is a link to the WATCO oil finish data
    http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp...t_id=112&SBL=1
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    Last edited by jcdahl; 12-10-2007 at 08:10 PM. Reason: add something

  12. #12
    Super Moderator yggdrasil's Avatar
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    On a pair of speakers I made a few years back I only used boiled linseed oil to achieve a great result.

    Anyway you should get some of the used walnut to experiment with.
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    Johnny Haugen Sørgård

  13. #13
    jcdahl
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    Boiled Linseed Oil

    On a pair of speakers I made a few years back I only used boiled linseed oil to achieve a great result.
    I think that the WATCO products are made of boiled linseed oil.
    John

  14. #14
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Watco is a blend of linseed oil, proprietary resin, a drying agent (Zirconium Drier), and mineral spirits. I have been using it since the '70s. I love the look, but it offers very little protection for the wood.

    I Googled Watco Danish Oil, and the Watco-Dennis Corp... the originators of the product in an attempt to find the history of the product. I found a pile of lawsuits resulting from fires caused by Watco soaked rags spontaneously combusting. The packaging clearly states that you must soak all used rags in a bucket of water to avoid this... our litigious society just pisses me off. I think that these lawsuits are why Watco-Dennis had to sell the brand to Minwax and probably why they sold it to Rustoleum... it is too good a product not to offer, but it has to be sold by someone large enough to have the lawyers necessary to fend off opportunistic legal attacks. Sure when you bring in photos of your permanently disfigured children you get the court's sympathy, but you should have read the label...

    ...and so should all of you using the stuff... it isn't just rumors... a friend lost his high school wood shop due to watco soaked rags. I treat them very carefully and have never had a problem.

    I doubt Watco Danish Oil is available in Europe, but there must be a similar product.


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  15. #15
    Super Moderator yggdrasil's Avatar
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    I put the rags in the fireplace after use. And sure enough after a while there was a nice little fire.... Works every time.
    Johnny Haugen Sørgård

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