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Thread: L65 Terminals

  1. #1
    catseye
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    L65 Terminals

    Am looking to repair/upgrade the speaker wire terminals on my Jubals from the springloaded push button. Anyone know of a good "minimally invasive" way to do this, or does anyone know where I can get a pair of those buttons, as one of my speakers only has 2 posts at this point. If there are any neat tricks out there that don't involve major surgery on the speakers, I'd like to know about it ... I'd be surprised if this isn't addressed somewhere on this forum, but I can't find it ...

  2. #2
    Senior Member SEAWOLF97's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by catseye View Post
    Am looking to repair/upgrade the speaker wire terminals on my Jubals from the springloaded push button. Anyone know of a good "minimally invasive" way to do this, ...
    Its super easy..takes about 20 minutes for the pair.

    tools you need:
    pliers
    drill
    screwdriver

    1. remove woofer
    2. find inside connection of binding posts
    3. remove nut - whole post falls out, wire has ring connector end
    4. enlarge holes through cabinet back slightly - about a 1/16
    5. insert 5 way post through back, attach internal wire and add its nut
    6. reinstall woofer
    STRANGE ....is the new NORMAL

  3. #3
    catseye
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    Quote Originally Posted by SEAWOLF97 View Post
    Its super easy..takes about 20 minutes for the pair.

    tools you need:
    pliers
    drill
    screwdriver

    1. remove woofer
    2. find inside connection of binding posts
    3. remove nut - whole post falls out, wire has ring connector end
    4. enlarge holes through cabinet back slightly - about a 1/16
    5. insert 5 way post through back, attach internal wire and add its nut
    6. reinstall woofer
    cool. Any opinion whether there is any affect to speakers value if the posts/terminals are original or upgraded?

  4. #4
    Heather [Senorita member] hjames's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by catseye View Post
    cool. Any opinion whether there is any affect to speakers value if the posts/terminals are original or upgraded?
    Some buyers are fussier than others. I think most of us here for the music would prefer to have the better mechanical connections on our speakers, but if it really matters, you can swap the connectors put the old jacks in a baggie, roll it up tight so they can't move or rattle and staple them inside the cabinet so they are available if someone ever wants to downgrade to the "original" jacks.

    Another approach: I'm not sure how the connectors are mounted on your L65s, but on my L200s and my monitors, the jacks were mounted on wooden plates which screwed tight into a recessed place on the back of the cabinet. I made replacement panels from some small birch planks from Home Despot and mounted my new 5 way jacks to them. Then I swapped them for the original plates and can give the original plates to the new owners if they prefer those lousy push pin connectors.

    See an example here - http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...93&postcount=9

    (I used 2 pairs of connectors 'cause I biamped the speakers, but you'd just need one pair per cabinet - get the connectors from Parts Express or Seawolf).
    2ch: Oppo, Acurus RL-11, JBL 240ti, Heath AS101, Carver TFM-25,Von Schweikert VR4
    7: Oppo BDP103D, B&K, UREI 809A, JBL B460,

  5. #5
    Senior Member markd51's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hjames View Post
    Some buyers are fussier than others. I think most of us here for the music would prefer to have the better mechanical connections on our speakers, but if it really matters, you can swap the connectors put the old jacks in a baggie, roll it up tight so they can't move or rattle and staple them inside the cabinet so they are available if someone ever wants to downgrade to the "original" jacks.

    Another approach: I'm not sure how the connectors are mounted on your L65s, but on my L200s and my monitors, the jacks were mounted on wooden plates which screwed tight into a recessed place on the back of the cabinet. I made replacement panels from some small birch planks from Home Despot and mounted my new 5 way jacks to them. Then I swapped them for the original plates and can give the original plates to the new owners if they prefer those lousy push pin connectors.

    See an example here - http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...93&postcount=9

    (I used 2 pairs of connectors 'cause I biamped the speakers, but you'd just need one pair per cabinet - get the connectors from Seawolf or Parts Express).
    It's tough for me to think back 6-7 years, and remember exactly what I had done, when I modified all four of my L65 Jubals with new X-Overs, L-Pads, and 5 way Edison Price Binding Posts.

    I'll try my best to describe what you'll most likely encounter. The Boards that contain the stock Push Pin Speaker Binding Posts that are screwed to the back of the Cab with 4 Screws are the actual X-Over Boards themselves.

    If I recall, the stock Binding Posts were soldered to conections on the Board. The most important consideration to successfully completing this task, will be, "will there still be enough room on the Board to place a pair of higher quality "larger" 5-ways"?

    Many high quality 5-way Binding Posts (Cardas, Audioquest, Edison Price, etc) come as a pair of two, bolted to either a piece of acrylic, or some fiber material, and this is done so that industry standard Double Banana Plugs have the proper Post spacing that they will properly plug in.

    With all though, one can easily dismount the Binding Post pairs for individual mounting, so that each 5-way Binding Post can occupy the exact same phyical location as the original push pin posts did. Getting single Male Bananas is not a problem if one chooses to use Bananas.

    As for ruining the "Vintage Value"?, that's a call you'll have to make I reckon. There's no doubt, that higher quality connectors will be a plus, in that virtually any method of hook up can be now accomplished, versus the tiny little push pins that wouldn't take much more than 16ga, or the required reducer Pins to enable larger gauge cable to be used. Mark

  6. #6
    catseye
    Guest
    Thanks for all the input. I think as long as I don't butcher the cabinets and they can be reverted, all would be well.

    markd51
    Oh, man, a Buddy Rich kit!!!! Awesome! I went to this (paragraph 2) a couple of weeks ago, the drummer had one that Buddy had given him ... great time.

  7. #7
    Senior Member SEAWOLF97's Avatar
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    [quote=hjames;192208- get the connectors from Seawolf or Parts Express.[/quote]

    these are what I just brought home ...if you want 2 sets,,PM me.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    STRANGE ....is the new NORMAL

  8. #8
    Senior Member markd51's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by catseye View Post
    Thanks for all the input. I think as long as I don't butcher the cabinets and they can be reverted, all would be well.

    markd51
    Oh, man, a Buddy Rich kit!!!! Awesome! I went to this (paragraph 2) a couple of weeks ago, the drummer had one that Buddy had given him ... great time.
    Hello Catseye, Remembering back, the L-65 Stock X-Over is a bit of a bird's nest inside the enclosure, lots of wires running everywhere, and possibly one limitation may be getting the board into an easy position to work on it, without having to do much surgery with de-soldering other wires. None the less, with some care, and time, I think you'll be able to succeed without too much difficulty.

    As pictured ealier in this thread, one could certainly use many different types of posts, such as even cheaper posts from Rat Shack, Parts Express, etc. The less expensive 5-ways may have the benefit of occupying a smaller space, and the downside of course, is many have thier plastic nuts, and can be prone to stripping in time, or having the inability to really tighten well, and thus strip the Posts.

    The Solid Copper Edison Price Posts I used (Avaliable from MusicDirect) can be tightened with a Quarter without ever fear of stripping. They are rock solid, but are largish. Since I remounted the Stock Board back in place thus keeping the Cabs looking as stock as possible, (but it was bare of X-Over components), there was of course no problems with the Edison Price's physical size. The Custom X-Overs (to L-65 specs) I used then were mounted to the Bottom of the Cabs, with Rubber Stand-offs.

    Nice picture of Buddy, I took a peek. Looks to be a quite old picture of him, perhaps back in the 70's? I seen him play four times.

    You're correct, my set is in "Buddy configuration", with two 16x16 floor toms, and matches closely the set that my friend, and collector Steve Maxwell owns, in which Steve's was the last Slingerland Set Buddy Rich ever played-owned. Only differences were, Steve's Set is about 4 years older than mine (his is circa 1976), and Buddy always used a Rogers Swivo Tilter on his Splash Cymbal Arm.

    My Set was originally owned, and played by the great, late Barrett Deems. Not sure if you can clearly see in my Avatar, the initials "BD", and "GK" (Gene Krupa) This Reso Head Barrett had made, not I. They were best friends, and Barrett had Slingerland build him this custom set when he, and his own Big Band were doing many Krupa Tribute Tunes in 1980.

    My drum teacher, Phil Stanger, was one of Barrett's closest friends, and spoke with him right up till the last day of Barrett's life. After he died, his wife Jane sold everything of Barrett's. It was how I acquired this Set. Mark

  9. #9
    Senior Member sourceoneaudio's Avatar
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    Upgraded Binding Post

    Here is my .02.
    Very easy to do.
    Using the above 5 way binding post Mr. Seawolf has pictured.
    Attached Images Attached Images     
    Jeff-S1A

  10. #10
    catseye
    Guest

    Perfect

    I have a set on the way. That's exactly what I need.

  11. #11
    priji
    Guest
    tools you need:
    pliers
    drill
    screwdriver

    1. remove woofer
    2. find inside connection of binding posts
    3. remove nut - whole post falls out, wire has ring connector end
    4. enlarge holes through cabinet back slightly - about a 1/16
    5. insert 5 way post through back, attach internal wire and add its nut
    6. reinstall woofer

  12. #12
    Junior Member wallstdrifter's Avatar
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    Not for L-65s

    L-65s do not have rear nut on push-pins, they have a screw covered crossover.

  13. #13
    JBL 4645
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    Hold on, you just pm and then I started thinking, this is bizarre and looked at (new posts) then saw this.

    That was last year wasn’t it Tom you brought a whole bag of them. What are you going to corner the market with them? LOL

  14. #14
    Junior Member wallstdrifter's Avatar
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    Bag of pins

    That bag of pins suck for the L-65 Jubal.

  15. #15
    Senior Member grumpy's Avatar
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    Wallstdrifter,

    I'd drop the entire crossover inside and run short wires from a new input
    plate to the stock crossover. Completely reversible and you can put whatever
    size terminals on the new input plate that happen to float your boat.

    Make sure the original input terminals are free of corrosion, perhaps hit them
    with something like Caig Labs DeoxIT and exercise them a bit.

    -grumpy

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