Dang
I made a typo in the network schematic I have posted the corrected diagam in the original thread.
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...BL-4344-Clones
Dang
I made a typo in the network schematic I have posted the corrected diagam in the original thread.
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...BL-4344-Clones
@Odd right, so if I want a it as internal only crossover I'll need another scheme for the low pass. Would this scheme work for the low pass ?You need an electronic crossover and two stereo amplifiers.
@christo thanks for pointing that out.
btw I live in Australia which makes it so difficult to order parts. I preferred the CC scheme because I can order everything in one go from solen.ca. If anyone knows of any one stop shop to order all the parts to build the 4344 xover please let me know, much appreciated.
Is not as easy to see out of your drawing.
If you only used it passively you will not need switches.
Here's another variant you can look at
43XX (2235-2123-2450-2405-CC 3155)5235-4412-4406-4401-L250-18Ti-L40-S109 Aquarius lV-C38 (030) 305P MkII
@Odd thanks. Do you know why +/- is inverted for 2235H/2245H as compared to the rest ?
Crossover is designed so reversed phase provides a flat curve at the crossover point.
More about reversed phase and crossovers;
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...5-clones/page3
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audio_crossover
If you have the possibility go for active.
They provide better sound.
43XX (2235-2123-2450-2405-CC 3155)5235-4412-4406-4401-L250-18Ti-L40-S109 Aquarius lV-C38 (030) 305P MkII
Steering back towards the beginning of this thread... Ian and others on various other threads have explained the theory and practice of using the charge coupled technique. I'll add another data point.
I have been enjoying my stock DD66000s with their factory charge coupled networks since March of 2012. Recently I thought something was amiss... my speakers were sounding rather honky. The sound was not unlike switching out my highly class A biased amps for a more typical class AB mosfet sort of sound. Not nasty or screechy, but a bit nasal and less transparent than what I have been accustomed to.
Then I had an idea... how old are the batteries in my speakers? I popped the grille off and saw the expiration date. March 2015. Well. I guess I got an extra year out of them.
I popped in 4 new batteries and almost immediately the sound returned back to that sound I love. Yes Virginia, CC'd networks do work.
Widget
DIY Array, 2242 sub, 4408, 4208, Control 8SR, E120 Guitar cab, Control 1, LSR305.
I read this and thought "hmm...been a while since I've looked at the batteries in my 250's networks". So I took a look yesterday and was somewhat appalled that I had missed the window by more than I'd care to admit. Some leakage was evident on 3 of them and one had its post get trapped in the connector when I tried to remove it. OK, note to self...do this annually now.
With 4 fresh batteries the sound is indeed a bit more detailed and there's a better sense of cohesion among all of the drivers. But bliss was short lived. The 044Ti's are on the way to Gordon now for some fresh damping foam. I've done all of the tube and cable voicing I can..it's time to solve the problem for good.
So, the 250's are doing their best vintage speaker emulation now. They are a bit soft on the high end with no tweeters :-).
jblnut
<<<SNIP>>>So, the 250's are doing their best vintage speaker emulation now. They are a bit soft on the high end with no tweeters :-).
That's A Good One! ;0
That is because JBL has been very inconsistent and stubborn in adopting the industry standard for polarity, so the red knob is negative and the black knob is positive only for some years of JBL. Use a flashlight battery to test the polarity and switch the knobs accordingly.
Old thread, but it seems like I could get the answer here.
All of the schematics I see show the point where the 9V is applied between the caps, but where does the other end of the battery land?
eso
30Hz Bass Horns/K151, Custom mid bass & midrange horns/Cogent DS 1428 & 1448 field coil drivers, Fostex T925a tweeters.
Battery Ground is attached to the minus side of the network.
30Hz Bass Horns/K151, Custom mid bass & midrange horns/Cogent DS 1428 & 1448 field coil drivers, Fostex T925a tweeters.
One will get it done.Or doI just need one battery charging both the mid and high filters?
Rob
"I could be arguing in my spare time"
Might also look into the later-implemented use of a diode to rectify the audio signal, thus providing the bias voltage with no need for a battery.
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