new loudspeaker cable

[Mr. Widget]

I like the idea of removing connectors and soldering to flow the signal directly - a purists approach,
even if its not so practical.
Connectors always seem like that single point of failure - seeing a stack of adapters screwed together always brings a smile.

I'm not endorsing this, but there is also a "school of thought" (aka audiophile craziness) where you don't want any solder in the signal path. And another where you only gently hand tighten connections as you don't want to over tighten a connection with a large wrench.


Widget

[Wagner]

I'm not endorsing this, but there is also a "school of thought" (aka audiophile craziness) where you don't want any solder in the signal path. And another where you only gently hand tighten connections as you don't want to over tighten a connection with a large wrench.


Widget

All comments to follow apply to Point to Point (and the Art of doing It RIGHT)
Including interconnect and speaker wire termination (excluding "cup" types)
Solder should never be used to "make" any connection, only to preserve it from thermal effects, shock and help keep it clean (but unfortunately it is, (just look at some of the half ass work being done today, gobs of the stuff used to fill gaps and voids rather than take the time and use the skill to make a proper connection), solder's purpose is ONLY only to ensure it's mechanical integrity (a connection between two pieces of metal) is maintained (in a perfect world)
Soldering is NOT the same as welding despite what some may think
Even strap to chassis ground connections you see so often on very old gear SHOULD HAVE been done with a threaded fastener and a star washer or at worse with a cold rivet, but a hot iron and a glob of 60/40 was just so much faster, and cheaper, even on the good stuff like Fisher and the like
If you work on enough vintage pieces you will see who knew how and who did not
(or at least didn't give a shit about anything but production numbers)
Probably the finest I have ever seen was that of Stromberg-Carsoln; you probably don't/didn't even need solder with some of their glory day pieces; but talk about a BITCH to UNsolder in order to effect repairs or service.
The consistency and shear beauty of their wire bends amazes me every time I work on one, and boy are they hard to unravel; they also hold solder like a bitch! They're almost like some sort of organic mechanical fastener (which I guess they technically are)
Their consumer stuff really was built as if it was going to see Military or space program service. I've uttered more than a few choice cuss words trying to remove just a simple resister from a tube socket on an S-C. And you could tell the workers were specifically trained/instructed/indoctrinated in what they wanted, the techniques run consistent with every piece of S-C gear I have ever worked on.

The unions should be made with skill and the properer bending of the metal/ a mechanical connection, NOT a lead glue connection
The solder only keeps things in place and long term conductivity (protection from the elements)
MOST people don't know how to solder properly; their work reflects it, looks like shit and invites cold and fractured joints with use and time "if a little is good then a LOT must be better......................not the case
That was during the point to point era; PC boards changed all of that and brought with it a plethora of new problems and issues to contend with (read: unreliability, difficult to locate and diagnose problems along with a host of others
Initially, all the boards were populated TOO HOT for PC work ('cause guys were still in the old mode/ways of thinking)
Nowadays, the floor man can control the temp of every iron on the floor (well, through the '70s anyway, now a F'ing computer does it all)
Aside from joint corrosion and oxidation (and vibration/thermal stress) a properly made Western Union etc or similar doesn't even need solder if it weren't for the effects of Mother Nature on metals
It's just not very piratical to assemble an amp or receiver with a hundred or more small parts that way
Again, solder is NOT a connection, rather an insurance policy and never was intended as such................the joint should be solid and tight before any solder is even applied if you're doing things right

Now TODAY, with SMD, IC designs and architecture, wave techniques and PC architecture Sorry State, THAT's another topic (and animal) Solder IS the connection or glue (but that wasn't my point)...........apples to oranges

[Alobar]

I don't know if this is the right thread and don't mean to hijack but I am getting ready to install 077's into my old L200's and am wondering what sort of speaker wire to use. I will be going from the baffleboard through the speaker to the back and making a small box on the back to house the cap and Lpad and install new binding posts where the 077's and the input to the LX16 will connect. As to the wire to the 077's, should I use some sort of a shielded wire? And if so what would I ground the shield to? Right now I was just planning on using speaker wire but this thread got me thinking about possible interference from those huge driver magnets.

[grumpy]

My suggestion would be to use normal hook up or speaker wire, tin the leads (or not)
and give it a few twists.

[Alobar]

My suggestion would be to use normal hook up or speaker wire, tin the leads (or not)
and give it a few twists.

Thanks Grumpy, that sounds easy enough..

[Wagner]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lG-3KyURXqk