Wood preservatives for L300............?

[bloatedpig]

Anyone have good results with a particular wood product? I usually use Liquid Gold but am open to any/all suggestions.

On another note, I just lubricated my L-Pads with deoxit and have nothing but wonderfull things to say about it. It worked wonders on the presence/brillance controls to the point where there is no scratchiness at any setting. There were louvers on the rear of both controls that allowed me to insert the tube into for the application. I was crossing my fingers given the prospect of having to replace the L-Pads by removing the foilcals...........the guy who put the retaining screws behind it must have been doing mesculine when it was design time. Thankfully the 15" woofer opening and some gymanastic moves allowed me room to take care of it.

Thanks to all

[majick47]

JBL recommends three parts linseed oil and one part turpentine for the walnut veneer cabinets. I would highly recommend NOT useing Liquid Gold on those cabinets. A quick search will list the original factory instructions for treating the L300 walnut veneer finish.

[Titanium Dome]

Yep, I still use it (the JBL formula) on my L100s, and it still seems to be the right choice.

[Fred Sanford]

Boiled Linseed Oil and Pure Gum Turpentine are their precise instructions...it's what I've used on my 4333As.

je

[Pointsource]

Wouldn't tung oil work just as well, if so, could you just substitute it in for the linseed oil??

[Steve K]

I use Watco's Natural (clear) oil on my walnut veneers.

[fotodan]

Wouldn't tung oil work just as well, if so, could you just substitute it in for the linseed oil??

Drying oils, such as linseed, tung, and walnut oils are a group of natural finsihes that cure to form a relatively hard film on the wood surface. Any of the above used in pure state, penetrates the wood rather then creating a membrane over it. The more coats you apply, the more it will enhance the woods grain and color. It will also accelerate the development of a natural patina. Just remember any oil does NOT offer much protection. I would apply couple coats of wax after the oil has cured for at least a week.

Also,dont forget the danger factor. oil soaked rags are very spontaneous. Oil pieces tend to shrink and swell with the season changes more then laquered pieces do.

[SUPERBEE]

I am a big fan of Howards feed-n-wax and also Howards restore-a-finish for those cabs in really bad shape. The stuff works wonders.

[Titanium Dome]

I am a big fan of Howards feed-n-wax and also Howards restore-a-finish for those cabs in really bad shape. The stuff works wonders.

Yes, sometimes use it myself.

[Coolmac55]

You can skip the turpentine and just use linseed oil. Turpentine is a solvent for linseed oil and just thins it and helps it penetrate. It doesn't smell as good as linseed oil, and I have always enjoyed putting oil on wood. Linseed can be rubbed in by hand. The warmth of your hand helps thin the oil.. Keep it wet and watch for areas that look dry until you are ready to wipe it down with a cotton cloth. Never let wet standing linseed oil dry on the wood.
Tung oil is good and can be used with or as a substitute. If you clean the original walnut before the Tung oil, it will stay lighter. You can put linseed on and let it dry a day before applying Tung oil and have a darker finish. There are some good Tung oils available. Some are polymerized more than others and dry to a higher sheen.
Here is a good cleaning tip; Some fresh dishwater with light soap on a terry rag in one hand and a dry towel in the other, you can scrub the wood clean. Never let the water dry on the wood, and do not soak it. I'd ring the rag out well and rinse often. You can do the same with alcohol afterwards, but don't wet it too much, just put it on the rag and always rub with the grain.
Wax will get into the pores on raw wood. Some woods take wax better but I've never put it on Walnut or Oak unless it already had a hard finish. Maple will look like glass if you get it smooth and then put hard wax on it.
If the cabs are beat up when you get them, you could clean like I mentioned earlier, then raise the grain with water and a hot iron. Then you can block sand and reapply the oil. Most all light dents can be brought out that way. You can't completely remove scratches though.
Shellac can also be a great finish because it protects better that either oil and is easy to remove.
Mark

[brutal]

Being a relative refinish rookie, I'll still add my 2 cents.

For stained, soiled, and otherwise grungy cabs, I like Howard's restore-a-finish and then feed-n-wax as well. 000 steel wool soaked in Howard's if they're not improving with a rag and elbow grease.

I had some custom ¼ sawn oak coffee and end tables made about 4 years ago that are a medium (called tobacco) hand rubbed finish and they told me to hit them lightly with 000 or 0000 once a year with the product they provided, a clear beeswax based oil (similar to feed-n-wax). They just keep looking more and more stunning.

For those cabs I've had to partially sand out (tops & bottoms usually), Several applications of Watco natural finish seems to do a great job of matching the finish on light colored cabs. I've alternated with Howards walnut on those with a darker patina. When the Watco sets up, a few applications of feed-n-wax makes them look brand new.

[catseye]

Some great advice here. I just got a pair of L65's that are in great shape (nothing major at all to deal with), but look like they could use some TLC. I will try the Howard's products and let you all know (before and after pics if I get that organized)... thanks, y'all..

[Wandler]

Hi everybody,

we have been discussing this theme also here:

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...d=1#post191626

[bloatedpig]

Just tried the Howards Brand Feed-N-Wax...............can't say enough about this product. My L-300 cabinets look fantastic! I liked it so much I used it on my kitchen cabinets and wood doors through out my house. Thanks for the heads-up on this product guys.

best regards

[spwal]

Heather recommended Howards. I got some at home depot and it works great. I will never need to look anywhere else i dont think.