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Thread: Building the 4345/4344

  1. #61
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    Here is a simplified drawing showing the side elevation.

    I have omitted the interior details for clarity so don't panic.

    From theses basic drawings we can derive basic panel sizes and router cut outs and rebates.

    Ian

    Edit Note: I just realised there is a bit of an assembly issue this this drawing. Guess what is it? I will re draw this diagram tonight.

    To make clamping the top , bottom and sides together easier I have re arranged the side joint so the top and bottom rebate into the sides. This way shorter and no doubt more accessable bar clamps can be used.

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    Last edited by Ian Mackenzie; 03-16-2004 at 03:40 AM.

  2. #62
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    Here is a precision drawing of the front edge moulding courtesy of Bo and Widget. Probably done over a few bottles of Red ..LOL

    Ian
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  3. #63
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    Here is the front view of the simplified plan.

    I realise this may all seem obvious but clarity is important particularly when you have rebated joints.

    Ian
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    Last edited by Ian Mackenzie; 03-17-2004 at 01:13 AM.

  4. #64
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    Here is the final simplied drawing.

    Once I have proofed the drawings I will make a procurement list of all the panel sizes and then post detailed drawings of the panel router rebates.

    I will also post more detailed drawings of the bracing and internal midrange sub enclosure shortly.

    Ian
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  5. #65
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    Sorry for the delay in completing the drawings but my time has been diverted to other priorities.

    I will post and complete the drawings over the Easter long weekend...

    Ian
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  6. #66
    RE: Member when? subwoof's Avatar
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    2000 is a BIG number of postings for one thread...:o)

    But it's a rabbeted joint, not rebated.

    BTW, for any of the east coast guys who are contemplating this, I will be building a pair in the woodshop in about 6-8 weeks and could always make more....

    But of course *after* I see ian's dwgs in person over some "local" ales....



    sub

  7. #67
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    You mean Views man....too many ales after Sunday school sounds likes.........to me

    I may have to make me some concentrated solution and bring it with me ......I'd hate to miss out on my Vitamins..particularly Iron.

    If we distilled down a dozen gallons a Yankee ale...that might help...at least avoid wetting the bed........LOL

    More soon

    Ian

  8. #68
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    Okay you guys.....

    Time for a disclaimer....."I take no responsibility for errors or omissons to any drawings or dimensions posted thereon in thread."

    These drawings are a guide to assembly of the 4344 enclosure, no doubt many of you will add your own twist to how you wish to build them.

    Now for some panel dimensions..

    Top and bottom 24 x 14 3/4 inches (panel thickness = 1 inch)

    Sides 41 3/8 x 14 3/4 inches (panel thickness = 1 inch)

    Front and rear 39 7/8 x 23 1/2 (panel thickness = 1 inch)

    So from here you can talk to your favourite lumber yard about sheet sizes for your project.


    The next step is to think about the detail of each panel. This will include router cuts and dowel joints to hold your box together!

    I'll save that for a strong coffee in the morning

    Ian

    Ps Tomorrow is officially JBL Blue Day
    Last edited by Ian Mackenzie; 04-10-2004 at 05:48 PM.

  9. #69
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    Here is yet another drawing,

    This time details of the joints, note there Router cut 1/2 x 1 inch but this is only in the sides for the top and sides to join, the top and bottom extend by 1/2 inch into the sides.

    This is also another Router cut this time in the top, bottom and sides 1/4 inch in parrellel to the front face 1 inch wide and 1/4 inch deep. The front baffle will therefore need to be fitted during assembly of the top, bottom and sides.

    The rear panel has an identical Router cut, but is not set in from the rear panel face and if your cutting is accurate you will be able to fit the rear baffle last after final enclosure assembly.

    All the joints should be liberally glued with your favourite PVA wood glue and then clamped securely overnight. Then as suggested Subwoofer, drill holes for 1/4 inch dowells evenly space into each side joint for added strength.

    Ian

    Ian
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  10. #70
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    Here I have added the bracing to the side elevation, 1 x 2-3 inch of hardwood.

    These stiffeners should be cut for a firm fit so they butt up against the adjacement panel then be liberally glued and screwed into place.

    Ian
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  11. #71
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    This front view has the bracing also added.

    Note the additional 1 x 1 cleats used for fastening the removeable rear panel.

    I used this approach in my diy 4345, it works quite well.

    Again all these stiffeners should be glued and srewed with a snug fit to the adjacent panels.

    The cabinet when fitted with these stiffeners is a solid as pressure vessel.

    Ian
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  12. #72
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    Tomorrow I'll post the remaining drawings detailing the 2122 Dog Box.......Time for a Guinness and some JBL "BLUE"

    I have it on good authority these 4313's are good for colour matching...LOL
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  13. #73
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    Okay,

    Here are some images of my 4345 cabinets with the authentic JBL Blue baffles.

    Special thanks to Bo for so kindly assisting with the sourcing and colour matching, a difficult job and a fantastic result.

    If we had an award for the most well liked and most generous Lansing Heritage Forum member, Bo would be the recipent.

    The look in reality is quite impressive and I am sure they sound even sweeter. (no kidding).

    Ian
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  14. #74
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    Hello Ian

    They look great!! I was messing with Paint Shop to make me some labels for my 4344's and it was fun!! Used your dimensions for spacing. They aren't perfect but it will save someone else the trouble in they want to use them.

    Rob
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    Last edited by Robh3606; 04-30-2004 at 11:04 AM.

  15. #75
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    Just for fun

    Rob
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