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  1. #1
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    JBL 4507A and 4509 enclosures

    Does anyone here know where I can find build plans for these? I've searched all over but it seems that JBL do not publish plans for any of their enclosures.....is this correct?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kwikas View Post
    Does anyone here know where I can find build plans for these? I've searched all over but it seems that JBL do not publish plans for any of their enclosures.....is this correct?
    I can help you with the 4507 but don't know what a 4509 is?

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    Originally posted by John

    I can help you with the 4507 but don't know what a 4509 is?
    Thanks John. The 4507A is the LF section of the JBL 3631 ScreenArray. The 4509 is the LF section of the JBL 3632 ScreenArray.

    http://www.jblpro.com/pages/cinema/scrn_ary.htm

    If I can't get the actual JBL plans for these LF enclosures, then I'd settle for plans that someone else (a 3rd party) can provide. I've got the three 3632 MF/HF sections that I need for my HT fronts and now I need to build the three LF cabinets. I'm okay with building either of the LF cabinets....I don't have a prefference.

    Appreciate the help.

  4. #4
    RIP 2011 Zilch's Avatar
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    Dimensions of 4507A seem to be the same as 4507, but the porting and driver location are different, apparently.... :dont-know

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    jbl
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zilch View Post
    Dimensions of 4507A seem to be the same as 4507, but the porting and driver location are different, apparently.... :dont-know
    The 4507, as you know, has 4 port holes and supporting brace from baffle to rear panel.

    Ron

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    Senior Member SMKSoundPro's Avatar
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    http://www.jblpro.com/pub/cinema/3632.pdf

    Try this.

    looks like 30w x 34.75h x 17.75d

    also, looks like they are using MI-15's crossed over at 350Hz.

    Probably tuned to 40 hz.

    You could use 2 - 2220's instead, or 2225's

    Also check out a 4508 cabinet. Been around a LONG time and for same general purpose. Same as an EN-8 home kit hi-fi cabinet from my youth.

    Scott.
    One step above: "Two Tin Cans and a String!"
    Longtime Alaskan Low-Fi Guy - E=MC² ±3db

  7. #7
    RIP 2011 Zilch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbl View Post
    The 4507, as you know, has 4 port holes and supporting brace from baffle to rear panel.
    Yup, and plenty of room to cut in a horn of choice....

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    Guys,

    Time for me to resurrect this thread now that I'm ready to start building my 4507A cabinets.

    Originally posted by John
    OK Here's what I got for you so far. These are exact measurments from the 4507 cabinets.

    Top and bottom and sides as well as the rear panel are 3/4" thick particule board.

    Front Baffle is 1"

    Both front baffle and rear panel are set back 1/2"

    Outside measurments are 17-5/8 Deep x 21-1/2" Wide x 30-1/2" High

    The ports are 3" I. D. and are 6-1/4" deep from front of baffle to rear of port tube.

    The bracing and port locations as well as the opening location for the 15" woofer will have to wait till I have more time later this month. At least for now you have enought info to source your material.
    The most accessible tube for me to buy down here is 66mm ID. I guess I can use this diameter for the 4 ports rather than the 73mm ID but I'll have to make these a different length than the 6-1/4" specified for the 73mm.

    Can someone please confirm this?

    Thanks

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    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Ports etc

    Good luck with your construction. Just about all Scotch malt whisky is exported in tubes. If you go to a good quality bar in town they will throw these out on a daily basis. Sizes are typically 75 -95 mm dia and are ideal for your needs. Better still go to your nearest bottle shop and buy a bottle of Balvenie 12 year old (95 mm ) and you can toast your efforts as you go along.

    Locking mitre joints are great but you need to be super accurate with the router cuts or the joints will not sit dead straight. The cutter set is pretty pricey too. Do it my way, good and strong and easily done in home conditions, plus if you are post veneering you can make errors and correct as you go and you will never see the fix.

    Tuning. You need to add up all the stuff that is inside the basic volume of the cabinet including the volume displaced by the back ofthe driver.
    If you are really fussy you can get sliding ports that are adjustable in length then you can tune away to your hearts content. Have you done a simulation in Win ISD.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Russellc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kwikas View Post
    Guys,

    Time for me to resurrect this thread now that I'm ready to start building my 4507A cabinets.



    The most accessible tube for me to buy down here is 66mm ID. I guess I can use this diameter for the 4 ports rather than the 73mm ID but I'll have to make these a different length than the 6-1/4" specified for the 73mm.

    Can someone please confirm this?

    Thanks
    I do have a pair of 4647 cabinets which I believe are identical to 4507?
    If you need any measurements or construction detail pics, I'll be happy to oblige.

    Russellc

  11. #11
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    Originally posted by Russellc
    I do have a pair of 4647 cabinets which I believe are identical to 4507?
    If you need any measurements or construction detail pics, I'll be happy to oblige.
    Construction detail pics would be very much appreciated - thanks Russell

  12. #12
    Senior Member Russellc's Avatar
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    I'll post a couple and tell me if any particular detail is wanted. It doesnt appear that either the front or the back is removable, but I can remove the driver and show the inside construction from there.

    I measure exactly as others have already posted. The front and rear panels are inset 1/2 inch. Top, sides and bottom panels appear to have been cut at 45 degrees.

    Russellc
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    Thanks again for the help.

    I'd very much appreciate being able to see the inside of the box but geez Russell, seriously, don't go removing the driver unless you are okay with this and it's not a PITA. Okay? I'll competely understand if you can't be bothered.....

    Yes, in-so-far as I can understand construction of the 4507 cabinet, the top, bottom and sides are routed with a slot that takes in the front baffle and rear panel. There is no way of disassembling the cabinet because as jbl pointed out in an earlier post, the whole design is kind of a locking fit.

    I see the edge joints have all been mitred at 45 degrees........I'll probably go with butt joints. They are easier to do, easier to get airtight and the cabinets will sit behind the screen anyway. Noone is going to see them.

    Other than that, I think I'm reasonably good to go.

    I'm cheating a little on the cutting in that I'm not doing it myself. A friend of mine has a kitchen joinery business and he has fully computerised wood panel cutting equipment. I'll get him to cut the speaker panels to size........

    Macaroonie. I've gone into your thread and will use a lot of the advice and suggestions contained in it. Pictures are worth 10,000 words...

    Cheers

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