This is the baffle that previously had a lip but is now cleaned flush as are all the exposed edges.
Note the tidy fit of the joints. This ALL comes from the early stages of cutting and sizing
This is the baffle that previously had a lip but is now cleaned flush as are all the exposed edges.
Note the tidy fit of the joints. This ALL comes from the early stages of cutting and sizing
These joints have not been filled at all.
From now on we are in the territory of Mini L300 with all the details.
Thus far I hope I have shown how with just a few tools that an acceptable level of box construction can be achieved.
If you go back and review what has been used so far we have
1 Ripsnorter
2 Good 1/2" Router
3 Tape measure
4 1/2 shank straight flute cutter for the router
5 1/2" guided trim off cutter for the router
6 Hammer
7 Sash clamps or ratchet straps
Not much really.
Here on is replica stuff plus commissioning the system as I had it in mind to start with.
The boxes are built in principle but are by no means finished so from here on in I will not be just quite as detailed about construction because this project is very specific as a L300 clone.
Anyone that wants to ask anything about whats going on ---------- other thread pls
Top detail. here are the little infills at the side of the glass.
I'm using oak flooring scraps for this but they will need reduced
Backyard action yeah
Whats this then ? new tools ? Yup a lekky plane which will reduce and even my top edge detailing to 10mm or 3/8" above the top. Screw heads MUST be under the scope of the plane or your blades are toast.
What the hell is that other thing ?
Answer it is a rounding over guided Router cutter with a 1" radius. As far as I can tell this is the rad. used on the L300.
It is a big cutter and will take some care in use because it could mess up the whole job. Oh it cost me £46 ie £6 per corner ie 12 buckeroonies yikes.
:shock::shock::shock:Top trim is on screwed and glued OAK yup . Most of the fill is done with 2 pack filler ( car body ) Not really much sanding needed to get everything ship shape.
The next stage will deal with cutting the mountings for the drivers/ horns and for this I will be more specific.
Just a note with regard to the driver cut outs, I have sufficient confidence to be able to leave this to this late stage on top of which I knew there may have had to be some adjustment to the layout.
I will take you all through this step by step:shock:
Last edited by macaroonie; 09-06-2007 at 02:56 PM. Reason: wrong smiley
A nice sunny day at last and I have a couple days downtime till the flooring contractors do their stuff at my work then its back to the grindstone.
Here is the box with the top trims reduced to size and tidied up.
The black spray is just to let me see any defects at the corners.
Fills are all done and sanding almost complete. Looking good I reckon.
Well here we are at last its driver time.
These are pics of my components laid up on the box just to let me get a look at the spacing and to check if any adjustments have to be made.
As it happens I will probably be using ferrite slot tweets and the magnet is a bit wider than the alnico version. As a result I have had to squeeze everything a little.
The HF is hard up against the top but because the horn mounts from the front and the tweet from the back and also because of the shape of the horn it allows me to bring these two units really close together.
I believe this to be a good thing acoustically in any case. Every cloud !
The woof is pretty much as planned but it is clear that there is no room for ports on the front.
I will get a nice sturdy brace across the baffle between the woof and the horn.
A small issue that popped up is that the horn mounting screws at the edges are right on the joint between the baffle and the side, so I will put a reinforcement inside to beef things up a little.
Way back in this tome you saw me cutting holes in a worktop. Well here is the real thing. The pics tell it all. Get your center CORRECT and make sure you are at the correct radius.
Do a little test piece and check the size --- twice, no errors here !!
A good tip is to support the center blank to stop it tearing off as you cut the last bit not the least of the reasons being that it could pinch the cutter as it drops potentially causing all sorts of mayhem.
Anyway driver is in as snug as a bug.
This is what we are looking for
Ah, that's such a good feelin'. Right?Originally Posted by macaroonie
These joints have not been filled at all.
DavidF
I have now cut the bass driver holes with the router and to save time I just used a jigsaw to cut the appatures for the horn throats. Not as tidy as using the router but since the mounting flange on the 2380 is so large I dont suppose it matters much.
Then we have the tricky problem of cutting a nice neat hole for the slot tweeter. Well Eureka JBL have provided a template onboard the unit ie the mounting flange.
The pic series will give you the idea using the top roller guided cutter.
This will plunge into material and then the roller will guide it around any template. The depth has to be set correctly so that the roller is in contact with the mounting plate.
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